Yeah that pin on the left is definitely bent. Try swapping the on/off into the X and see what happens.
WAIT! If we don't figure out why, it might just bend the other pin.
Last of the Salzburg Clan
Concerning the on/off bottoms in the picture, is the left one the one that was in the pneumag?
Probably forgot to pull the trigger when pulling the X out and bent it.
The cause of the bent pin may be from my Pneu and when I release the Valve. I have to unscrew the body as well as the valve then push the pin the rest of the way.
The Retro wouldn't have that issue.
I'll look at my on/off bottoms tonight. I don't think they're that chewed up. LPR too high? I don't have a pneumag, so I don't know. It might be simply from use and rate of fire.
Why it worked in the ULE but not the XMT, I'm still not sure. Are the holes that the on/off pin goes through in the same spot relative to the rail bushing? Are they the same diameter? Do you see any wear around the XMT hole that's not seen on the ULE? Or maybe the ULE has been beat into submission?
This is my only understanding of a pneumag. Is yours set up differently? I need more details. How did this happen? And why does the bent pin still work in one body and not the other?
No sear left the pin to do what it wanted, bouncing inside the frame. Plus like a dumb dumb, I kept thinking it would come out of it somehow (thinking the FullAuto effect was interesting) and gassed up and degassed 3 times before I noticed the sear on the bench.
On a Pneu without air to trip the Pneu the pin remains down when the marker is degassed.
On trick I have been doing is as I am degassing flicking the trigger since and it pushes the pin back up. Not always reliably thou.
OK. I guess I can live with that if XtraKargo lets us know all is well with the new pin. Or did I miss that report? Rereading this, I missed quite a bit, because we were all posting at the same time.
I want all your stuff to work right. Run it through the gamut.
Try the retro with the good pin in the XMT body. If it works take the on/off out and put it in the X and try it in the XMT body again. Process of elimination.
Last edited by OPBN; 08-08-2013 at 08:33 PM.
Needless to say, after she corrected Siri, I wasn't so excited.
Soooooo, hear me out on this.
I returned all bolts to their own valves.
Retro Valve - LVL7 - Straight Pin and ON/OFF that was not mauled in the searless lashing of '13... - one shot, bolt stick - trigger firm. Removed Valve before it fired one and done again.
X-Valve - LVL10 - 1 Carrier no shims - And the same On/Off assembly. - one shot, bolt stick - trigger firm.
Moved on to the Classic Valve - LVL-7 - and the same On/Off assembly. - one shot, bolt stick - trigger firm.
This is on the Minimag rail with the standard sear assembly...
You're positive it was the good pin and on/off assembly?
1. Do the same tests but with the Reactor on/off that you had in your Classic valve.
2. I know you slip fit the bolt to make sure there were no burrs, but try assembling the marker with the muzzle pointed up and without a bolt spring. When snugly assembled, tip the marker muzzle down. Does the bolt fall forward? May need to take out the bolt stem oring, so you don't get a false result from oring friction.