Originally Posted by nak81783
Fresh RT PIN Anyone. The center one is from my Retro Valve. Same size, and looks truer to form.
BPM AutoMagger
Fresh RT PIN Anyone. The center one is from my Retro Valve. Same size, and looks truer to form.
OldPBNoob
Yeah that pin on the left is definitely bent. Try swapping the on/off into the X and see what happens.
Registered User
WAIT! If we don't figure out why, it might just bend the other pin.
Last of the Salzburg Clan
Registered User
Concerning the on/off bottoms in the picture, is the left one the one that was in the pneumag?
OldPBNoob
Probably forgot to pull the trigger when pulling the X out and bent it.
BPM AutoMagger
The cause of the bent pin may be from my Pneu and when I release the Valve. I have to unscrew the body as well as the valve then push the pin the rest of the way.
The Retro wouldn't have that issue.
BPM AutoMagger
Yes.
Registered User
I'll look at my on/off bottoms tonight. I don't think they're that chewed up. LPR too high? I don't have a pneumag, so I don't know. It might be simply from use and rate of fire.
Why it worked in the ULE but not the XMT, I'm still not sure. Are the holes that the on/off pin goes through in the same spot relative to the rail bushing? Are they the same diameter? Do you see any wear around the XMT hole that's not seen on the ULE? Or maybe the ULE has been beat into submission?
BPM AutoMagger
I think OPBN can share in this painI left the sear out one day and caused that issue. Full auto and sheared a pin.
Registered User
http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/anim...eumag_5fps.gif
This is my only understanding of a pneumag. Is yours set up differently? I need more details. How did this happen? And why does the bent pin still work in one body and not the other?
OldPBNoob
I did do this one as well. Couple of suggestions on the pneu. Drill a hole in front of the FS screw. It will allow you to use an Allen key to push the back of the sear up and degass the valve. Another option is to take a grip panel off and manually trip the sear before trying to disassemble.I think OPBN can share in this pain
BPM AutoMagger
I am learning this tip during all this testing actually, much easier. I will remember it for sure.
No sear left the pin to do what it wanted, bouncing inside the frame. Plus like a dumb dumb, I kept thinking it would come out of it somehow (thinking the FullAuto effect was interesting) and gassed up and degassed 3 times before I noticed the sear on the bench.
BPM AutoMagger
May be similar in function but not the same setup. I got a cheater from the first production with Zap a few years back.
Registered User
Why doesn't it just bleed off like normal when the tank is unscrewed?
Or do you mean just to push the on/off pin up, so the valve can be removed?
Still don't understand why the bent pin worked in one body and not the other? Must understand why...
BPM AutoMagger
On a Pneu without air to trip the Pneu the pin remains down when the marker is degassed.
On trick I have been doing is as I am degassing flicking the trigger since and it pushes the pin back up. Not always reliably thou.
OldPBNoob
Yes and no. You're right in a regular pneu setup it does just push the pin up. I was mixing it up with my external reg'd one that has to have the sear tripped to degas. It will degas on its own eventually, but if I want to disassemble right away I have to trip it.
Registered User
It's eating me up inside.
BPM AutoMagger
LOL!!
This is where I have been for about a week now with the XMT body.
OldPBNoob
Maybe the pin was just in the right angle? I come to realize that sometimes s..t just happens. I swear I have had markers that didn't work. I took them apart and put them back together changing nothing and they magically start working. Gremlins.
Registered User
OK. I guess I can live with that if XtraKargo lets us know all is well with the new pin. Or did I miss that report? Rereading this, I missed quite a bit, because we were all posting at the same time.
BPM AutoMagger
Well that was what I wanted to know for sure. Which valve/rail/etc... did you want it in?
Registered User
I want all your stuff to work right. Run it through the gamut.
OldPBNoob
Try the retro with the good pin in the XMT body. If it works take the on/off out and put it in the X and try it in the XMT body again. Process of elimination.
Last edited by OPBN; 08-08-2013 at 07:33 PM.
OutKasT 4 Sho!!!
dood are you eating paint chips yo
Registered User
I blame all that stuff on Siri. My wife once iMessaged me to "Confetti. me with cream cheese frosting". I thought she was on ecstasy...dood are you eating paint chips yo
OldPBNoob
Think I did that once.... My wife, not yours just to be clear.
Registered User
Needless to say, after she corrected Siri, I wasn't so excited.
BPM AutoMagger
LOL!!! Not sure where the thread is headed, but that, sir was hilarious!
BPM AutoMagger
Soooooo, hear me out on this.
I returned all bolts to their own valves.
Retro Valve - LVL7 - Straight Pin and ON/OFF that was not mauled in the searless lashing of '13... - one shot, bolt stick - trigger firm. Removed Valve before it fired one and done again.
X-Valve - LVL10 - 1 Carrier no shims - And the same On/Off assembly. - one shot, bolt stick - trigger firm.
Moved on to the Classic Valve - LVL-7 - and the same On/Off assembly. - one shot, bolt stick - trigger firm.
This is on the Minimag rail with the standard sear assembly...
Registered User
You're positive it was the good pin and on/off assembly?
If so:
1. Do the same tests but with the Reactor on/off that you had in your Classic valve.
2. I know you slip fit the bolt to make sure there were no burrs, but try assembling the marker with the muzzle pointed up and without a bolt spring. When snugly assembled, tip the marker muzzle down. Does the bolt fall forward? May need to take out the bolt stem oring, so you don't get a false result from oring friction.
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