Now on to the Reactor On/Off.
Classic Valve - LVL7 - Cycles just fine.
X-Valve - LVL10 - Cycles fine but doesn't seem as quick as the Classic to me. I am not sure how it would try and recharge a straight pin - and may need more education on this fact.
Retro Valve - LVL7 - Fired once - then the concave portion of the pin got lodged in the teflon o-ring in between the On/Off top and bottom and would not drop until I remove the valve... I was fairly certain that was used for a finger grip, and it was supposed to be facing out.
Again, XMT Body-Minimag Rail - standard sear.
Last edited by XtraKargo; 08-09-2013 at 10:40 AM.
Thanks for looking.
The Retro Valve gives a firm trigger now but no shots fired. The pin is not getting caught now. (For a test I reversed the pin and it fires sporadically- but the bolt moves fine, so I put it back correctly with a urethane O ring instead of the Teflon to test, giving the firm trigger)
The Retro has a single O ring for the top of the on/off. The Classic and X have an inner and outer. If that makes a difference.
Running out of ideas. But one more thing to try for now. Wear adequate personal protection equipment.
Using X-Valve, Level 10 (make sure pressure is turned up high enough to make it work), good RT on/off assembly and pin, Minimag rail, and standard sear, put the marker together and air up. Unscrew both field strip screws 1/8 turn. Grasp the body firmly with one hand while holding firmly onto the grip frame with the other hand. While repeatedly pulling the trigger, rock the body in multiple directions and rotations. Use some force, but you're not looking to rip the body off the rail. Report what happens.
Unscrew both screws another 1/8 turn. Report what happens.
Repeat until the screws are, at most (in my opinion), 1/2 turn from how you had it originally snugly assembled.
I'm thinking a total of 1/2 turn will be enough to loosen things up but not let things come apart. Feel this out. The decision on how far to go is yours.
All I can think of is there is some interaction with the XMT body and the difference between the on/off bottom (RT vs. Classic) that is causing the binding. RT on/off bottom is radiused to match the diameter of the valve in that area. Classic on/off bottom is flat (assuming Reactor on/off is the same).
I know this was touched upon at the beginning of the thread, but I'm hoping the contorting of the body while repeatedly pulling the trigger will let you deduce where the binding is occurring. Also, by how far you have to unthread the screws and force the body, it will give a general indication of how bad the binding is.
Have to admit, I haven't a clue at this point. (not that I did to begin with) Just not sure how the on/off could be the issue unless it has something to do, as suggested earlier, with pin length. Maybe worth seeing if XMT or BE would be willing to take a look at it to see what the deal is.
I am stumped yet again...
edit: I know sometimes when there is a LVL 10 issue there has been requests to poke the bolt with a squeegee - made no difference. I just remembered doing this also during the loose body test.
Last edited by XtraKargo; 08-09-2013 at 07:55 PM. Reason: In additon to testing.
I'll try my Mag-Fu skills.
Main problem is the xvalve not working in the XMT body right?
And your using a pneumatic frame?
Originally yes, but to isolate if there was any issues with pneu setup we moved the XMT and the XValve to Minimag Rail and a standard sear.
Cover the sear portion that engages the on/off pin with permanent marker. Pull the trigger a few dozen time with the marker aired up. Take a picture of the sear. Hopefully there will be witness marks of where the contact is taking place.
Repeat ceteris paribus, except use Reactor on/off assembly.
Post both pics.
Take a dremel or file and open up the width of the slot on the BAD RT on/off bottom equal distances in both directions from center. I figure this one is already chewed up a little, so you might be willing to modify this one. If you are able, make it about the size of the round partial hole that the back of the sear comes up through in the rail. If it's already that width, open it up about .030" in both directions. You may need to go further later.
Reinstall with good pin.
If you want to get an explanation first, please post pics of all three on/offs, side by side, with them all sitting on a flat surface on their tops, without the top orings. Orient the RT on/offs such that the picture can view the width of the slot on the RT on/off bottoms.
Or black marker the edges of the slot and some of the bottom around the slot on the bottom of the RT on/off. Repeat the trigger pull exercise. See if you see witness marks on the on/off bottom.
Last edited by nak81783; 08-09-2013 at 10:09 PM.
So my hypothesis is that the slot in the XMT body, through which the front of the sear travels, is slightly off center, such that when the marker is fully assembled, the front of the sear may be deflected off to one side. When that happens, the back of the sear goes the other way off center. For the RT on/off to work, the back of the sear must travel up into the RT on/off bottom slot. It can't do that if it's pushed off to the side. However, the pin can still push on a portion of the back of the sear to give you a firm trigger. Also, since you can't push the back of the sear all the way up, the front of the sear can't come all the way down to release the bolt.
The Reactor on/off works because it's flat bottomed. Sear back doesn't have to fit up into a slot to complete a trigger pull.
Root cause corrective action would be to widen the slot on the XMT body, but I figure it'd be easier and cheaper to manipulate that galled up on/off bottom...just in case I'm wrong.
Blackened rear sear pictures are hard to decipher, but in the one from the RT on/off, I think I see wear where the pin hit and on the edge where I think it's catching the on/off bottom slot edge.
So rather than widen, could I sand the top flat with bottom of the slot?
I would NOT do that. The bottom radius is required to hold the overall height at which the on/off top orings are set. Not sure what would happen. Might lead to reactivity/bounce issues.
Actually, you'd be making it shorter, while the pin stays the same length. Probably would cause a long, sticky pull or not be able to recharge, rather than bounce, but I'm getting tired; what do I know? I'd stick with widening the slot.
Do you mean the RT on/off slot is already wide enough to accept anything that fits through the XMT sear hole? Or do you mean that's how wide you're going to make it?
Yeah, I need to hit the hay as well. I'm working on the house over the weekend, so I probably won't be very responsive.
Oh, and that pic of the 3 on/off's, I wasn't quite clear enough in the orientation. Rotate the 2 RT's 90 degrees, and take the pic from the side, such that I can see through the slots to compare their height from the table to the overall height of the Reactor.
...if that makes sense.
I ran into a situation on a body where the hole in the body where the back of the sear pushed through was a little off and the sear could to fit through and push the on/off pin properly. Does the back of the sear fit through the hole properly? Assemble the marker except the valve and pull the trigger. Does the protrusion on the back of the sear fit through the hole?
I would also retune the lvl10 with a new carrier oring on GP. You might have a bad oring causing you to use a smaller carrier cause everything you're describing with the bolt hanging up on the return is caused by a tight carrier. Remember all the basics...no shims installed, use the gold spring, stock on/off and a mech frame when tuning. Install the largest carrier that doesn't leak. If you're still having reset issues, then add shims to compensate. (I haven't read every post but you've already tried shims right)?
Good old acronym. K.I.S.S. = Keep It Simple Stupid
Take every variable out of the equation and then run your tests.
If so....don't. They weren't mention to be used as is, will cause you more issues and def make you shoot hot.
Last edited by Ando; 08-10-2013 at 02:11 AM.