Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: classic valve w/ level 10 max rof

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    central coast cali 805
    Posts
    1,173

    classic valve w/ level 10 max rof

    so when ever i play its either with a x valved mag or a pump mag...the x's never have a problem keeping up with my fingers and the pump is just that, pump and shoot...but when i played with a classic valve w/ level ten it seemed like the valve would not keep up with my shooting...i would get about 3 or 4 quick shots and then the valve seemed like it was starving for air? about 850 output tank(same tank i use on with my x valves)...i know the recharge rate is way slower in a classic but is this the norm for the valve?thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    129
    I think it was capped at 16, before dropoff, although the trigger pull is so heavy, I doubt anyone could get above 10-12ish... maybe spiking, but not steady. IDK man.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    The level 10 will generally be a slight bit lower rate of fire than a level 7 mag, but not by much. The average user won't notice, because at that rate of fire, there are more inaccuracies due to user induced gun wobble than by any slight velocity drop off.

    Starvation of a level 10 classic valve is more a result of level 10 bolt stick causing a slower than normal reset than it is function of a slower recharge rate.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    central coast cali 805
    Posts
    1,173
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    The level 10 will generally be a slight bit lower rate of fire than a level 7 mag, but not by much. The average user won't notice, because at that rate of fire, there are more inaccuracies due to user induced gun wobble than by any slight velocity drop off.

    Starvation of a level 10 classic valve is more a result of level 10 bolt stick causing a slower than normal reset than it is function of a slower recharge rate.
    maybe i just need to break in the level 10 a little more? or do you think i should mess with the carriers? it currently doesnt have any leaks but i know is should be able to shoot faster than 4 in a row wihout drop off?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,555
    Quote Originally Posted by keiko_819 View Post
    maybe i just need to break in the level 10 a little more? or do you think i should mess with the carriers? it currently doesnt have any leaks but i know is should be able to shoot faster than 4 in a row wihout drop off?
    Yes, if you are not chuffing with the trigger, a classic valve will run over 10bps easily. 14bps in ep's and pneus, and occasionally 18bps with a lot of work.

    Do you know if this mag shot fine without a level 10? There are plenty of other causes of shoot down. One is that the trigger rod has no gap behind the trigger.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Don't know, I am lost.
    Posts
    3,162
    Quote Originally Posted by keiko_819 View Post
    i know the recharge rate is way slower in a classic but is this the norm for the valve?thanks
    Its not as slow as you think it is.

    Here we go. Classic valve 20BPS no shoot down. Just put a Hyper frame on it.

    Where did Hitech Go??

    https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...-Classic-valve

    https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...ghlight=Hitech

    Quote Originally Posted by hitech View Post
    ULT should be better. And I made a vid of a classic valve shooting paint at 20bps fullauto, so I think it works just fine.
    http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper1.avi

    http://home.comcast.net/~beemerone/HitechHyper2.avi.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hitech
    That is a stock minimag. The tank is a preset PMI 68/3K. It has a level 10 bolt with the short spring (the middle & long spring will not work).
    Last edited by Beemer; 09-23-2013 at 09:09 AM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    central coast cali 805
    Posts
    1,173
    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-TW View Post
    Do you know if this mag shot fine without a level 10? There are plenty of other causes of shoot down. One is that the trigger rod has no gap behind the trigger.
    i dont know how it shot before the level ten but i kind of have an idea its the frame i have on there, its a dye double trigger frame, maybe i could try to use my intelli on it instead

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    central coast cali 805
    Posts
    1,173
    Quote Originally Posted by Beemer View Post
    Its not as slow as you think it is.
    Here we go. Classic valve 20BPS no shoot down. Just put a Hyper frame on it.
    interesting

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    Quote Originally Posted by keiko_819 View Post
    i dont know how it shot before the level ten but i kind of have an idea its the frame i have on there, its a dye double trigger frame, maybe i could try to use my intelli on it instead
    Dye frames work fine as long as they don't impede the movement of the sear and on-off or prevent the on-off from fully opening. Most of the time, Dye frames work quite well.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    waiting for winter
    Posts
    1,769
    i'm wondering why level 10 on a classic valve, all my level 7 and below work just fine. i figured level 10 was RT and up.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    i'm wondering why level 10 on a classic valve, all my level 7 and below work just fine. i figured level 10 was RT and up.
    No. Any mag can chop. Its easy to short stroke a classic valve and cause a level 7 bolt to shoot forward before a ball is fully in the breach. A level 10 prevents this from happening. I used to get hot on the trigger and chop the occasional ball before I got my level 10. I am spoiled with my level 10 now, since I no longer chop. I have gotten to the point where I rarely carry a squeegie on the field anymore when running a mag.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Plymouth, WI
    Posts
    7,199
    I can hook up my autorespose and hammer it out.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    waiting for winter
    Posts
    1,769
    thanks for the explanation, i must have a slow trigger finger.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    thanks for the explanation, i must have a slow trigger finger.
    You don't have to have a fast trigger finger to chop. If you use a hopper that is not force fed and tip the gun sideways far enough to move the ball in the breach when shooting, you can chop. Another common chop cause is when the hopper gets near empty. Even force fed hoppers are guilty of this one. The balls don't always feed continuously because they can bounce around in the hopper causing gaps in the ball stack. Even a slow series of trigger pulls can hit a ball that is not quite in the breach yet.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    waiting for winter
    Posts
    1,769
    the only time i can remember having problems was back in the dinosaur days when the foamie came off the bolt. other than that the only time i have problems is when working on a marker. if memory hasn't failed me.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •