Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Automag blending paint bad

Hybrid View

  1. #1

    Automag blending paint bad

    Hey guys im having a little trouble with my mag i have a rgular mag with a cocker threaded body and clamping feedneck i beleive it to be a lvl 7 bolt? Everytime i shoot its a blender. Imwas using fresh gi 3 star paint and it became were balls werent even comng out anymore bust being destroyed in the breech...i was however running a pink gi cancer tank which is set for low pressure.. It sounds great while being dry fired but once it sees paint its a mess.. Anyone have any idea what i could be missingor doing wrong? Thanx for the help. Keith

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Sunny Florida- Woot!
    Posts
    4,765
    Automags need 850psi output. An LP reg'd tank will not work.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Plymouth, WI
    Posts
    7,194
    the MINIMUM input pressure should be above 800. 850 is decent. 950 is pretty golden.

    you have a ule body and alot of the time with the ule body people screw in the detent too far and that has a chance of damage paint or the bolt, giving "stuff" sharp edges. if said damage occurs enough then the lip between feed neck and barrel will become a guillotine.

    get a hopper that will force feed paint into you mag faster then a russian nanny.

    get lvl 10 or an xvalve and tune it.

    dont short stroke the trigger

    dont shoot a cocker, your mag will never work for you again.




    honestly, probably the pressure, but check the above.

    To leave feedback: Click seller/buyers name, Click feedback score, Click leave feedback

  4. #4
    Now that i think back i put a 68/45 pe tank on it and git same results blender

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by BTAutoMag View Post
    the MINIMUM input pressure should be above 800. 850 is decent. 950 is pretty golden.

    you have a ule body and alot of the time with the ule body people screw in the detent too far and that has a chance of damage paint or the bolt, giving "stuff" sharp edges. if said damage occurs enough then the lip between feed neck and barrel will become a guillotine.

    get a hopper that will force feed paint into you mag faster then a russian nanny.

    get lvl 10 or an xvalve and tune it.

    dont




    honestly, probably the pressure, but check the above.
    Lol i hate cockers were would i look for these sharp edges you speak of? And i use a revy on my mag should i go faster?
    dont short stroke the trigger

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Plymouth, WI
    Posts
    7,194
    Take your valve out and inspect the bolt. Look down the breach to check if the detent is too far in. Run your fingers around in the breach to find any edges.

    Use whatever hopper your feel comfortable with. I use a shake and bake with my classic. Lvl 10 is a must

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,446
    What is the size of the paint? What is the size of your barrel? Quite often balls that are a tiny bit tight in a barrel can bust in the breach as the bolt attempts to push them in. This is especially noticeable if the balls have weak seams.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,206
    Maybe a loose detent as well. It always aggravates me when I get rollouts when using a plain gravity loader. If the paint rolls forward to be caught late by the detent, it leaves the next ball halfway in the breech. Then there's double feeds.

    I've gotten to where I don't like gravity feed on direct vert bodies (mags or other). With just one or two balls in the stack, the ratio of shake-to-bake gets way too high. Luke's verts have an extra ball or so that really seems to help.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •