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Thread: RT Sear

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    212

    RT Sear

    I just recently got back into paintball (last December) and my buddy and I have been playing a lot recently. My friend had been picking up quite a few used markers. One of his finds was a used RT. It had a slight leak down the barrel. Since he didn't have time to mess with it, I agreed to look at. Neither of us have any RT experience but I love to tinker. I thought this was going to be an easy replace the o-rings, clean and lube it up kind of job. Which, for the most part it was. I tried multiple o-rings one at a time and the valve REALLY needed an internal cleaning. The last thing I replaced was the power tube o-ring and it stopped leaking and was shooting much faster than I expected it. The RT is advertised at 6 BPS and although I didn't have a chrono to verify, I'd say it was closer to double that. After about 300-400 shots, the tank was running low, I took apart the marker and found that the sear was worn down at a strange angle and had started to ding the bolt a little. To be honest I didn't look closely at the sear before I started the project but I am almost certain the strange wear pattern wasn't there when I started. I just received a replacement sear from Tuna and I want to make sure before I start up this little project again that I won't be destroying a $30 sear. Do you think the original sear was worn and/or weakened? There isn't an adjustment to the sear. The body was attached to the rail tightly. Is too tight bad?

    DSC_5108.jpgDSC_5110.jpgDSC_5112.jpgDSC_5115.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    212
    Oh yeah. Is the bolt shot too? I have a few others I could drop in if need be.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    553
    That old sear is one of the earlier models of RT Pro sear. Can't remember what was the name of that metal that's on the catching edge (carbide?) but it could chip like that, that's why it was changes if I'm not mistaken. That bolt looks little worn down but I' don't know if that's too much. Cue Athomas

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    offshore
    Posts
    7,235
    BOTH the sear and bolt are shot. Do not use that new sear you just bought on that old bolt. Change the bolt.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    212
    I'll get on it right away. Thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,475
    The sear is noticeably damaged. The bolt is rounded and dinged at the edge where the sear catches it. A new bolt to go with your sear, and the gun should perform nicely.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    212
    With an almost new bolt with the new sear it was working well. Not RTing much but I haven't played with the input pressure yet. I took a video but I can't get it to post.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,475
    A good working RT Pro isn't supposed to "RT". It is supposed to have some trigger kick which makes the trigger reset faster with less chance of short stroking. A reactive trigger is more something that has been exploited by adjusting some of the parameters that affect the differential forces or the sear and on-off pin travel distances.

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