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Thread: KNM's 3D print shop/ prep

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs View Post
    can you make tha rail use a RTP sear/sear pin? then you dont need tha sear channel...similar to shadow rail. no need for tha Zig Zag. just a thought dood?
    yes I can
    but would like to offer a rail to people who would like an am/mm sear style.

    otherwise I would shelf the Am/mm style sear rails.
    My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    I can print threads. if anything ill use a barrel
    thankyou though.
    I use creo, and autocad, I can use soliworks but don't have it yet.
    the designs arnt the issue, im having trouble figuring out how the am/mm sear channel is located, I have the distances for the front and rear radii of the channel.
    I just don't know the dimensions of the "zigzag"

    I have asked someone here to help annotate the sear channels, but they are busy and have not gotten back to me.
    its no be hurry.

    but once I produce my final basic design ill throw some out for testing.
    and ill video my tests and show what ABS can actually handle.

    I will bring my rail to work with me tomorrow and get the zigzag dims.
    On a side note, i never understood why that was designed that way..

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkApollo View Post
    I will bring my rail to work with me tomorrow and get the zigzag dims.
    On a side note, i never understood why that was designed that way..
    1st. thankyou,
    second part, its to keep the am/mm sear from moving side to side, as it travels up and down pivotally on the sear pin in the sear.
    the rt sear has that spacer that keeps it in line, from going side to side.

  4. #64
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    I guess I just dont understand why the slot wasnt narrower to accomplish the same effect.
    Im really excited to see this progressing how quickly it is.



    The zig is .08'' off of the centerline ( i forgot to annotate that.. )
    Last edited by DarkApollo; 11-21-2013 at 09:45 AM.

  5. #65
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    [QUOTE=DarkApollo;2845160]I guess I just dont understand why the slot wasnt narrower to accomplish the same effect.


    here is a link with some explanation about tha zig zag sear slot:
    http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...ar-slot-design

  6. #66
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    how about 03 AKA eyecovers?
    loose cars and fast women

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
    how about 03 AKA eyecovers?
    yeah if I had dimensions sure

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkApollo View Post
    I guess I just dont understand why the slot wasnt narrower to accomplish the same effect.
    Im really excited to see this progressing how quickly it is.



    The zig is .08'' off of the centerline ( i forgot to annotate that.. )
    for some reason that picture is really hard to see the dimensions. they are showing up really small for me.
    and I cant see what is being annotated, it looks like the annotations are on the bottom of the rail.

    ill just go back to my drawings and annotate it.

    thankyou for the help,
    looks like this wont be a fast project.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    yeah if I had dimensions sure
    if i had ones to measure for you, i wouldnt need you to make me some haha

    someone here on AO got an older AKA?

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
    if i had ones to measure for you, i wouldnt need you to make me some haha

    someone here on AO got an older AKA?
    I don't own anything AKA sorry.

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    looks like this wont be a fast project.

    rolf

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs View Post
    rolf

  13. #73
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    lol I guess there is this thing called zoom.
    on my browser, and it was down to 50%
    I see the dimensions they have been added to my drawing,
    now all I need to do is find out where to put the pin for the am/mm type sears.
    thanks again for the help guys.

    ill try to print some rails up this weekend.
    figured out where everything goes.
    just needed to be patient.
    Last edited by knownothingmags; 11-21-2013 at 03:41 PM.

  14. #74
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    Dude.. do you just want me to send you the parasolid?

    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    lol I guess there is this thing called zoom.
    on my browser, and it was down to 50%
    I see the dimensions they have been added to my drawing,
    now all I need to do is find out where to put the pin for the am/mm type sears.
    thanks again for the help guys.

    ill try to print some rails up this weekend.
    figured out where everything goes.
    just needed to be patient.
    The radi are in pink and the offsets are in gray.

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkApollo View Post
    Dude.. do you just want me to send you the parasolid?



    The radi are in pink and the offsets are in gray.
    got the channel made.
    thankyou so much,
    I pulled so more intricate dims along with yours from my annotations from my triple rail.

    thankyou again,
    ill do a test print Friday night.
    and we will se how they come out.

  16. #76
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    Well if you need any more measurements, I have the rail and ULE body in CAD.. I got bored at work.......

  17. #77
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    print of am/mm long rail in progress.
    wish me luck.

  18. #78
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    luck

  19. #79
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    Drum roll....

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkApollo View Post
    Drum roll....
    fell asleep.
    letting it cool down gradual as any print does.

  21. #81
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    I really cant wait for these.. I want to build a super light mag with the new M86 frame.

  22. #82
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    so of course the damn gun wont shoot.
    here are the videos.
    come to find out after attaching the body, frame,valve to a slug rail. come to find out im low on air. ef me.

    videos are funny, I say "it will shoot" then it doesn't.
    but here are the videos just to give you an idea.


    I think im going to take a bansaw to the back end of this rail. since the z-lock channel in the rail dosnt do anything.
    how do I know this you say. went to turn the valve and the z-lock pin turned through the rail.

    so ill get to cutting the back of this rail off,
    then ill set up a second rail to be printed solid.
    since this rail only has 20% infill to save time and filament.

    ***edit: lightning here so no printing till that's passed.
    Last edited by knownothingmags; 11-22-2013 at 07:38 PM.

  23. #83
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    Could you maybe build in a stiffing rod?

  24. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkApollo View Post
    Could you maybe build in a stiffing rod?
    pm me some run downs of what you are thinking.

  25. #85
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    Sent you a PM with the idea that I had.

  26. #86
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    sorry been out for a second doing some prototype work for a friend.
    ill be back on my stuff soon.

  27. #87
    When you get a free moment PM me, I know something rather simple you could make and sell a bunch of to people in my line of work. It would not require much drawing to make and specs do not have to be perfect. As it would be a clamping design. I can put it on my powder gun and put it through the paces for you. I could guarantee you sales on it

  28. #88
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    little tester.

    filament ran out come to find out the part that actually holds the battery is too big.
    and I think the front round is off.
    making the compartment smaller will allow the dovetail to be the right size. woop for my printer.

  29. #89
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    apparently I cant pull dimensions worth crap.
    my screw holes are all off. have no idea of a better way to get where they are positioned.
    need some moreadjustment on the pack. im thinking of combining the bottom with the middle.

    kinda frustrating.

    great thing about learning is you definitely don't stop

  30. #90
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    One trick on hole spacing is to measure them 3 or 4 different ways then compare results. I'm overly careful amount reverse engineering parts, because it sucks making a part a dozen times to get it right. Measure, measure, measure, measure again, then one more time to be sure, when your done with all of that, check it again, especially if you generally screw it up (lol)

    Don't forget to make sure you calipers are set to zero, plus it wouldn't hurt to check them on a gauge block. You'll pick up tricks as you advance, I'll give you a clue, you can use software to check your drawing against the actual part.

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