Awesome! I need a rail!
Awesome! I need a rail!
but I wont sell printed parts like rails and bodies. too much can go wrong.
once I get my powder printer then ill see what I can get produced.
maybe ill have an all printed mag someday, minus valve,clip/ring, asa on/off, and stuff like that.
My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!
hahahah, that would be tits
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Nice, you the man
i am only at a testing phase for parts production.
i am not able to make parts "yet" that can be pressurized.
That's what I'm talking about a frog rail!
I know nothing about 3D printers or how they work or what materials are used for the part so here is my question. Is there a type of clear colored material you could use to make parts? I have been dreaming of a Mag made with as many Red/clear/ Acrylic type parts as possible? Just curious.
Just noticed this thread. That looks like a Solidoodle. Your prints are pretty impressive given all the problems I've been reading about the Solidoodle.
Things will be very interesting when you get your powder printer.
"Accuracy by aiming."
Definitely not on the A-Team.
so when you make a body, frame and foregrip then go to a field you can be all like "yea... just printed it off this morning"
yeah the problems the solidoodle has are minor, the people who want to make guns and stuff or complicated things, still need to have a background in design and have some heavy knowledge about cad,
but I can do a lot now with my doodle, all you have to do is contain the heat,
im working on a body right now but I cant get the right program to print the support material properly.
Last edited by knownothingmags; 11-10-2013 at 03:21 PM.
sweet man! i want to see a 1/2 mag 1/2 plastic mag.... carbon half of a carbon modded body replaced w/ back half of your body, feedneck, forgrip, trigger, minirail or drop forward...
But does it work?
Lol. Just show up and go "made it myself" then drop it rock and after it breaks say "that was 80 hours of printing down the hole"
I'd guess at least cocker the threading would be hard for 3d printer?
the rail works great.
im still working on the fill pattern for the body, the inside radius of the body is projected as a 90* over hang so the program infills some of the radius with material to support it.
but my printer dosnt need the support, it can print without it, so I am working on the program so that the inside is not infilled.
pushed the 3D printer to a speed,(which im calling just a hair short of kinetic momentum),
printing a ULE body, it looks promising.
my plan is that the final print will NOT utilize a a c-clip and ring, but more like a ring-cup, such as XMT's style in the shockwave body.
the body I am printing is just a tester, if it has anything close to a failure, it will be scraped for production at this time.
if that happens then I will just print rails.
I have no "designs" made up at this time,
so the rails I print will just be light weight style rails.
wish me luck.
KNM, I happen to have a cocker barrel thread tap, if you wanted to borrow it...
I will GLADLY be a test mule. I can draw up a few rails in SolidWorks for you to have a few different designs.. What CAD/CAM do you use? Once you get the speeds right on the body, you can borrow that tap since they are NOT cheap.
I use creo, and autocad, I can use soliworks but don't have it yet.
the designs arnt the issue, im having trouble figuring out how the am/mm sear channel is located, I have the distances for the front and rear radii of the channel.
I just don't know the dimensions of the "zigzag"
I have asked someone here to help annotate the sear channels, but they are busy and have not gotten back to me.
its no be hurry.
but once I produce my final basic design ill throw some out for testing.
and ill video my tests and show what ABS can actually handle.
can you make tha rail use a RTP sear/sear pin? then you dont need tha sear channel...similar to shadow rail. no need for tha Zig Zag. just a thought dood?