Last edited by TyeStick; 09-07-2015 at 03:32 AM.
that's interesting, since i have never shot the original one that came with my ULE body for many years and cases of paint.
but some questions:
1) though, you should give a little leeway for the detent, it shouldn't be in as far as the screw hole will go, as it will physically effect the bolt. with that, is the body clean or has it been reanno'd?
2) are you using angel-threaded detents right?
3) have you tried a combo of oring AND some thread locker?
4) are you running 1 or 2 detents?
5) this is a ULE body correct?
6) are you running a L10?
Last edited by TyeStick; 09-07-2015 at 03:33 AM.
aren't there long ones and short ones? I bought the long ones by mistake once, they are both Angel threaded
good point, there are long and short angel detents.
other than actually going with a purple or a red loctite, i really don't know. this is a conundrum.
Last edited by TyeStick; 09-07-2015 at 03:33 AM.
I think these are the System-X detents. AGD detents work just fine.
when screwing them in (before the thread lock cures), rub your finger inside the body to make sure that only the ball portion of the detent is inside the body. If you can feel the threads, it's in too far and the bolt will shear it off.
a thick o-ring will help from over tightening but you still need to check this.
as for the ReTents that you mentioned, they're not much better than what you have pictured. They're just another re-buildable detent. Of course, if the front is sheared off by the bolt, it won't matter what brand you used because it'll be trashed.
Those appear to be the original Kila detents before they were redesigned. If you are using those on a ULE body, you should be using the thicker o-ring. The thin o-ring pictured was for use on Tac-bodies. This is true for all detents used on mags, including the AGD detents.
If you use the thinner o-ring on ULE bodies, the detents will screw too far into the body and cause issues.
Last edited by TyeStick; 09-07-2015 at 03:34 AM.
Doesn't even look like its protruding into the breech.
Just a shot in the dark but if they have been shot out as many times as you say couldnt the threads in the body be stripped out by now ?
Last edited by TyeStick; 09-07-2015 at 03:35 AM.
Are the threads stripped out of the body?
Last edited by TyeStick; 09-07-2015 at 03:36 AM.
i would say that IF you have another gun, to swap bodies and see if you can shoot them out in a controlled setting(indoors shooting reballs or something, so you can find the detents if they do shoot off) and see if it is the body or the gun that doing it. basic elimination. cause, you have me stumped on this one.
It's clear we need to see the rest of the gun to figure this out. If we've inspected the Hell out of the detents, then the problem must be somewhere else. The small body scratch next to your detent is a flag.
Need to see the marker both assembled and disassembled so we can check for abnormal things, like missing field strip screw bushing, "customizations", an LX bolt which isn't really an LX bolt, and/or weird alignment which would cause the bolt to hit in a weird way.
"Accuracy by aiming."
Definitely not on the A-Team.
"Shot out"...means the detent ball gets knocked from the detent body, or do you mean the whole detent goes missing?
hold up there chief? so are you saying:
1) the detent body comes flying out of the gun itself, leaving a hole were the detent was? or
2) the detent ball, literally gets hot out of the barrel(you are assuming) during firing. so all you are left with is a detent body with no detent ball at all?
Last edited by TyeStick; 09-07-2015 at 03:38 AM.
then it has to be the bolt. if the body is ok on the detent(assuming its not being mushroomed from the bolt striking the detent itself), the bolt head/face is grabbing the detent ball and forcing it out.
check the bolt, see if there is any irregularities or problems there.
I'm starting to think that it may just be the quality of the detent, and fact that the ball is metal. I think the white detent balls made of delrin may be a better choice. I'm puzzled though, because the stock AGD detent that was provided with my ULE custom had the white delrin ball shot out as well.
Here's pictures of my bolt. I also included a picture of the detent, w/ o-rings to show the amount of spacing I'm needing, in the hopes that my detent ball doesn't get shot out.
photo 1.jpgphoto 3.JPGphoto 2.jpgphoto 4.jpg
I think I found the issue. I removed the detent from the ULE body, and cleaned the threads on the body itself as well as on the detent. I found, that when rolling my finger across the metal detent ball back and fourth, that the metal ball tended to stick. I'm thinking that because the ball is sticking, that it's causing friction as the bolt moves forward, causing the bolt to rip the ball from the detent.
The picture below shows the detent itself marred, not so much by the detent ball itself, but possibly from the detent spring after the ball has already been shot out.
Last edited by TyeStick; 11-08-2013 at 04:57 AM.
trying a delrin instead of metal might help. i was trying to find a detent like http://www.checkitproducts.com/produ...alldetent.html. that is for cocker threading only. it come with both delrin and metal, so you can build "your way". tried to find one in that style but for angel threading, but not having any luck.
hopefully Frizzle Fry will have a extra Fang Detent for ya and im waiting to hear back about those other ones as well?
Last edited by TyeStick; 09-07-2015 at 03:43 AM.