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Thread: broke-off CCM fitting in my X-valve, what shoud i do?

  1. #1

    broke-off CCM fitting in my X-valve, what shoud i do?

    I broke off my CCM macro line air fitting so it's flush with my X-Valve, and there is nothing at all to grip onto. How would I ever get it out now, it's Teflon taped in really tight, that's why I broke the head off trying to twist it out of the hole?

    <a href="http://s1108.photobucket.com/user/Jonathan_Wyly_Prince/media/9b15ca9c-fe1b-47b2-94b2-3b263eac4674_zps3e602323.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h406/Jonathan_Wyly_Prince/9b15ca9c-fe1b-47b2-94b2-3b263eac4674_zps3e602323.jpg~original" border="0" alt=" photo 9b15ca9c-fe1b-47b2-94b2-3b263eac4674_zps3e602323.jpg"/></a>
    Last edited by djinnform; 10-19-2013 at 09:54 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by djinnform View Post
    I broke off my CCM macro line air fitting so it's flush with my X-Valve, and there is nothing at all to grip onto. How would I ever get it out now, it's Teflon taped in really tight, that's why I broke the head off trying to twist it out of the hole?

    Say wat??? any pics man? is this fitting the older one that you needed a wrench to install the fitting? if not try the allen wrench thats used to install tha newer fittings? Wow man thats tha first time i heard of that happening??

  3. #3
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    EZ-out. you might scratch it around the inlet, but that's a small price to pay for getting it out.

  4. #4
    I tried to use an "Easy Out", but it also broke off inside the CCM. Now I'm really in trouble because that was hardened steel! What do I do?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by djinnform View Post
    I tried to use an "Easy Out", but it also broke off inside the CCM. Now I'm really in trouble because that was hardened steel! What do I do?
    really?!?!?!? wow, i would take it to a machine shop. that is your only option at this point...

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody View Post
    really?!?!?!? wow, i would take it to a machine shop. that is your only option at this point...
    http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/...6.jpg~original

  7. #7

  8. #8
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    dang that sucks man, ive stripped out a couple npt plugs in asa's and have used a drill to drill out most of the plug then used a stainless dental pic and tweaked out a bit to get the rest out; im not sure what the fittings are made of though, the plug was just aluminum...i think nobody has the best idea though...

  9. #9
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    have you tried talking to AGD maybe they can try.

  10. #10
    No expert but here is a thought......Possibly get some small flate head screw drivers and wedge them in the gaps where easy out and broken fittings leave voids, and then channel lock the bundle. Gently try backing out while maintaining counter pressure on the valve so the flat head screw drivers don't dislodge from the gaps between broken fitting and easy out. You could also grab the bundle ( two or three) screw driver heads wedged in the gaps of easy out in a vise with the flat head pointing up, this may allow you better counter pressure on the valve while trying to back it out.

  11. #11
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    have you tried PM'ing tuna or big evil?

  12. #12
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    I'd suggest the machine shop, they have tons of experince removing broken tools. The $40- 50 bucks you'll spend will save a $200 valve. And they can do it without marring up your valve because they got the tools to hold it.
    I took the road least traveled...now where the hell am I ?

  13. #13
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    I would contact CCM. I don't know how far you'll get considering they recommend using loctite (not teflon tape) but maybe they'd help you out?

  14. #14
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    wow i never thought teflon tape would be stronger than loc-tite eh? every now and then a thread will pop up asking to stop using loc-tite and to use teflon tape cause fitting w/loc-tite was to tight for them to remove tha fitting...haha this place is Krazy!!!

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry View Post
    I would contact CCM. I don't know how far you'll get considering they recommend using loctite (not teflon tape) but maybe they'd help you out?
    I tried Loctite first, but it still leaked. So, I called CCM on the phone. They told me to try the Teflon tape.

  16. #16
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    Try a screw/bolt extractor
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMrDYJvY0Ts have had to use them on broken studs on my car.

  17. #17
    wow thats ugly. I would think you could take it to a machine shop and they could either burn it out with a tap burner or blast a carbide endmill thru it.

  18. #18
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    I really think you should ask CCM what they can do for you; if it wouldnt seal with blue loctite there is something off about the fitting, and coupled with the fact that it got stuck with just torque and teflon tape is screwy too, nevermind it snapping... Screwy. I own several sets of these and you really cant overtorque them (or at least you wouldnt, then theyde mount lower than flush).

  19. #19
    You might look at a left hand drill bit. Seriously, they make them...it's not like blinker fluid.

    If not, I'd just try a bolt extractor. The "square" ones might be hard to use in this case...but not the "threaded" type.

    Also...there's a reason it broke. I assume it's either cross threaded or has thread locker - you might need to apply some heat to it before you try to remove it. I have had good luck with "jet" type lighters, they seem to concentrate the heat better when you want it, and get hot faster without melting everything around them.

    EDIT: Just read it has a lot of teflon tape on it. I would still apply heat.

  20. #20
    Any updates? I see it's been almost a month since the thread was started.

  21. #21
    Luke!

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry View Post
    I really think you should ask CCM what they can do for you; if it wouldnt seal with blue loctite there is something off about the fitting, and coupled with the fact that it got stuck with just torque and teflon tape is screwy too, nevermind it snapping... Screwy. I own several sets of these and you really cant overtorque them (or at least you wouldnt, then theyde mount lower than flush).
    I spoke with Melissa at CCM. She said to try "ED Ming"? (from Flash Gordon?)

  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by FormulaZR View Post
    You might look at a left hand drill bit. Seriously, they make them...it's not like blinker fluid.

    If not, I'd just try a bolt extractor. The "square" ones might be hard to use in this case...but not the "threaded" type.

    Also...there's a reason it broke. I assume it's either cross threaded or has thread locker - you might need to apply some heat to it before you try to remove it. I have had good luck with "jet" type lighters, they seem to concentrate the heat better when you want it, and get hot faster without melting everything around them.

    EDIT: Just read it has a lot of teflon tape on it. I would still apply heat.
    I bought one of those flamers to make Creme Brulee, that sound like a good idea.

  24. #24
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    I thought you typed Flesh Gordon! Watch out for those sex rays. you know the one that you get when you look at Lukes mini vert frame.

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by djinnform View Post
    i spoke with melissa at ccm. She said to try "ed ming"? (from flash gordon?)
    wth......

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by barkingspider View Post
    wth......
    Electrical Discharge Machining

  27. #27
    Dude email Luke, he does all the mag work and probably can fix it at a low cost opposed to just a shop, he has all u need I bet

  28. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by splat15k View Post
    Electrical Discharge Machining
    thanks for dumbing it down to my level! Nothing above 2nd grade please

  29. #29
    Okay. I'll ask Luke already. I feel dumb because I sent him a box already this AM for another project and knew that I needed to send him something else as well, but, I couldn't remember what?

  30. #30
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    You can remove the broken extractor using an annodize process. Take the valve completely apart so that only the section with the broken piece is remaining. Mix up a 3:1 ratio of battery acid to water and put it in a plastic tray. Put a piece of aluminum inside the tray on the bottom. This piece of aluminum has to have an aluminum wire running out of the solution. If you have a plastic grate to sit on the aluminum on the bottom of the tray, it would be great. Connect a +12V computer power supply line to the valve section using aluminum wire or rod. Make sure there is a good electrical connection or it won't work. An aluminum rod threaded into the valve at the field strip screw hole might be the way to go. Run a tap in first so that any annodize in the threads is removed. Put the valve into the solution so that it is completely covered. Connect the 12 negative lead to the wire/rod connected to the aluminum on the bottom of the tray. Turn on the power supply and watch the bubbles coming from the ferrous metals. You might have to make waves near the bubble area to allow the bubbles to release from the metal which will allow new acid to come in contact with the area. After a few minutes, the ferrous metals will be totally dissolved.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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