Last edited by ElPanda; 03-01-2014 at 06:20 PM.
Polarstar Engineering and Machine
Looks pretty sweet.
Which DYE frame is that? Electro pneu?
its a pm5 UL frame, its mech
Very clean and a mech...nice.
On a side note...any chance of you designing an Armada body to match the current rail Luke just made? I had ask.
Very nice. I love the look of it on there! Beautiful!!
cant say one way or the other, just dont know
if I ever get ahold of a sluggo body that will be phase two of this project; creating a one off body to match the rail
OMG I love it I love it iluvit.And everyone in my office at the moment Loves it (they dont play). Is this a new build or have you had it a while.
new build, just got the parts back from ano and assembled last week, shipped it to ben for the pictures last friday
will have to upload a video at a later time, it shoots just as good as it looks, mags rock
Very nice. Desperately needs a CCM Macro fitting though... lol.
I was leery of using them as I run an SHP tank and have had problems before with the o rings blowing out
That gun has a nice clean look to it.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
If she were mine I would switch out the feed to RPG sub-zero, the detnet for AGD stock or RPG retent, and see if I could get DW to send my some grey scale jewels to I didn't break up the all black/Grey vibe.
But that's being super picky. She's an all time Beaut IMO. Nice work.
dood where did ya get that rail man....haha!!! definitely like this design more than tha new design!
liking how ya cut tha ULE body instead of just a straight cut! do you like this build better than your first Armada Build that had tha RPG parts on it?
yeah I just kind of worked with the body I had, honestly if I had a pariah I would like it a little more
but I think it looks good like this, having all the carbon fiber on there at least matches
Ok that's it TBaggin, Elpanda I can't take it anymore I must...get...one of these UL frames for myself. Out of all the non AGD frames to use on a Mag these are by far the sexiest. And I love all the carbon fiber great job man.
please get a CCM fitting for the valve, it will complete the setup.
thanks to ben for the infoOriginally Posted by xluben (via pbnation)
Now we just tackle efficiency and the 2 biggest mag gripes will be gone
That gun is just so pretty.
This marker is awesome. The only thing I'd add to it would be an e-pneu kit to that trigger. That frame cryes for it, I think.
Great looking mag...that rail matches up perfectly to that deadlywind foregrip. Nice job
Will you share whats involved in getting that frame to work as a mech? Looks fantastic!
Warp Feed Evangelist
I believe there was a tutorial thread somewhere on here I made a long time ago when I did this before but it was quite a while ago so Ill explain
- the pm5 UL frame is the best choice because it is shortest from front to back out of all the "available" UL frames, and the frame screw holes come very close to matching right out of the box, also it is flat on top already (most other UL frames are curved to match DM/PM marker curves. However PM5 UL frames are not easy to find anymore, especially brand new. I bought mine off ebay brand new for $95 before shipping (the seller had two and I bought both of them). Just something to consider before making the jump and attempting this yourself. You have to be willing to cut up something that is diffcicult to replace, so make your cuts count.
- the front frame screw hole needs to be cut back about 1/8"-3/16" (did it a while ago so cant remember specifically how far I took it)
- a flat needs to be created on the rear frame screw hole to locate the thumbscrew so it seats and alligns properly
- a small flat also should be created at the front frame screw hole so it sits on flats and not on the curved geometry of the trigger guard interior
- if you plan on using AM/MM length as I have then you will be looking for real estate up front so that you can fit a foregrip on the marker, in my case I took a 1" end mill and ran it down the front of the frame @ 15* and took it only as far as I had to so that the foregrip would fit (you can just barely see the cut in a few of the pics)
- all of this can be done with manual tools (files, dremel, etc.) however you need to possess some degree of aptitude and knowlege to get it looking clean. Even the first UL frame that I made with manual tools looks nowhere near as good as this one. To do it properly, accurately, and cleanly you should be using a mill.
edit: almost forgot trigger interface
-there is a spring seat armature that has to be cut away in the area that the trigger rod passes through
- I decided to use the stock trigger so you either need to cut off the rear portion of the trigger or cut a through window in it to allow the rod to pass through. I chose to cut a through window because this traps and roughly locates the trigger rod so that you should not have to worry about it pointing some wacky direction or dropping down into the frame while the marker is de-gassed
- I also created a small pocket in the rear of the physical trigger (where the trigger and trigger rod interface) this allows the trigger rod to nest into the trigger and further locates the rod (again doing both of these operations is made much easier, cleaner, and accurately with the use of a mill)
- even with the extra space created in the trigger I had to remove about 5/32" of material from the trigger rod with it screwed all the way in (that part is important). Make sure you screw the trigger rod all the way in then cut off what you need to cut off, that way you can always adjust it outward.
- I set the distance just physically adjusting the trigger rod in and out using needle nose pliers while it was in the marker
For finishing touches before I sent this frame to the anodizer, I sanded all the edges my hand would touch with a ribbon of sandpaper to make it super comfortable, even sanded a gentle radius onto the edges of the stock trigger to make it smooth and ergonomic. Looking back the only thing I regret doing is not UL milling everything I could before anodizing. I could have removed a hefty portion of material from the frame bottom inside the grips and I could have UL milled the rail internally. But I can live with it being lighter than a geo3, Im not that weak
Last edited by ElPanda; 10-27-2013 at 10:54 AM.
Wait so... You don't modify it for a rail bushing?