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Thread: ego mag build

  1. #1

    ego mag build

    ok building a ego mag and wanted to used a way cheaper noid than most, if its good enough for a viking or timmy good enough for a ego mag lol

    here is what i have
    http://macvalves.com/Portals/97890/docs/43catalog.pdf
    its to big to fit in the grip with the battery but i can maybe fit it in the rail or i will gut a as thru lol i cool with that

    things i need to know is what ports to use on the noid... whats in out and vent if any? i go crossed eyed after long reading so hoping if someone can help me some lol

    do i just wire the two wires off the noid straight to the 2 on the ego board on my noids both wires r gray? does it matter what wire go where..... there both gray on the noid.

    can i just use a 9volt battery and not have to use anything else to not fry the noid or under or over power it?

    ty guys

  2. #2
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    there's one on here too but PBN's search works better

    http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3518618&page=2

    To leave feedback: Click seller/buyers name, Click feedback score, Click leave feedback

  3. #3
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    they work fine straight off a 9v Lucky used the 3 port version on there ion mods there a very reliable noid and have a high cycle rate, I have loads of the 5 port ones just never used them it doesn't matter which way you wire the noid leads.

    if I can help you anyway feel free to ask

  4. #4
    thanks bt alot of the threads here on ao the links and pics dont work....

    renie on my noid what ports do i use? I assume in, out/vent?

    thanks for the info!!

  5. #5
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    it should be on the sticker on the side of the noid ill get you a pic of the one I got in 2 mins, I have the 3 port version off an old lucky ion and that uses usually open ports going from port 3 input to port 2 output with continues flow and when activated closes port 2 which on an ion dumps the forward pressure.

    you want the usually closed setup so once activated the air flows to your activator, on this noid it would be port 1 input port 2 output.

    if your not sure you can always blow through it and test which ports work

  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    on the 5 port version port 3 input is normally closed when activated flows to port but it has a vent on the spool base so what your best setup would be is input port 1 blank port 2 making your output port 4 which in turn makes port 5 your vent

    Last edited by renie; 02-24-2014 at 08:38 AM.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by renie View Post
    will have to start blanking ports
    u mean plug the ports im not using or can i leave them open and port 3 in and port 2 out is what i want? the ports r stamped i didnt see that at first lol. should i wrap the noid with electric tape or something to insulate it? I picked up this noid for 10$ and figured it was no big loss if i messed it up lol.

    what are some noids that will fit in the grip frame with the battery?

    ty Renie

  9. #9
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    you only need to blank port 2 if you have the 5 port version

    the small noids that fit in the frames are the SMC S070c-SDG-32 there only rated to about 60-70 psi

    or you can use the festo noid setup like I did on a couple of my builds from the WGP trilogy they have a 200psi rating

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by renie View Post
    you only need to blank port 2 if you have the 5 port version

    the small noids that fit in the frames are the SMC S070c-SDG-32 there only rated to about 60-70 psi

    or you can use the festo noid setup like I did on a couple of my builds from the WGP trilogy they have a 200psi rating

    do you have a build link? my big tank is a ninja shp at 11k out put should i not use this.... i dont want to hurt anything? what size barbs and plug should i get? can i just plug the other ports just to be safe?

    do you have TW to cocker adapter by chance?

    ty sir
    Last edited by RT Lover; 02-24-2014 at 01:35 PM.

  11. #11
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    Think there 1/8th barbs with m3 thread you will need a decent lpr microrock are popular
    ill get u some links once I get home from work
    ive used the SP miniflow lpr aswell with good results
    Last edited by renie; 02-24-2014 at 03:56 PM.

  12. #12
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    heres an ego mag with the WGP festo noid setup
    http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...ghlight=egomag

    creemag mag build using smc noid
    http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...ighlight=renie

  13. #13
    where can i get some noids and fittings etc, air solider isnt working right... but u r across the pond.... how long is shipping on that

    ty!

  14. #14
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    Your struggle to get the wgp setup the smc can be got from most smc retailers I use s company called RS components.
    Ill have a look see if I can find anyone near you

  15. #15
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  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by RT Lover View Post
    where can i get some noids and fittings etc, air solider isnt working right... but u r across the pond.... how long is shipping on that

    ty!
    It's working kinda of? I talked to mike yesterday here is a good link
    http://airsoldier.com/mm5/merchant.m...Store_Code=AOS

  17. #17
    renie r u sure its 1/8th barbs with m3 thread? any certain size/ type of hose and thanks for the links! would i need to use some kind of hose ring to keep the hose from blowing off?

    Quote Originally Posted by river031403 View Post
    It's working kinda of? I talked to mike yesterday here is a good link
    http://airsoldier.com/mm5/merchant.m...Store_Code=AOS
    he is just about all sold out on everything...he needs to stock up! thanks for the link

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by renie View Post
    they work fine straight off a 9v Lucky used the 3 port version on there ion mods there a very reliable noid and have a high cycle rate, I have loads of the 5 port ones just never used them it doesn't matter which way you wire the noid leads.

    if I can help you anyway feel free to ask
    Renie, did you notice RTLover's spec sheet is only 12 or 24 VDC? It doesn't seem to cover the 5 vdc solenoids.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT Lover View Post
    renie r u sure its 1/8th barbs with m3 thread? any certain size/ type of hose and thanks for the links! would i need to use some kind of hose ring to keep the hose from blowing off?
    no your only working with 50-60 psi as long as your hose isn't to rubbery they will hold just fine, autococker lpr tubing is the best,

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-TW View Post
    Renie, did you notice RTLover's spec sheet is only 12 or 24 VDC? It doesn't seem to cover the 5 vdc solenoids.
    ah.. no I didn't I presumed it was the same as the ones I have

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-TW View Post
    Renie, did you notice RTLover's spec sheet is only 12 or 24 VDC? It doesn't seem to cover the 5 vdc solenoids.
    Quote Originally Posted by renie View Post
    ah.. no I didn't I presumed it was the same as the ones I have
    English guys lol!!! Do I need a different noid or something?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT Lover View Post
    English guys lol!!! Do I need a different noid or something?
    Your spec sheet covers 6 solenoids, none of which are rated for 5 volts like the ones Renie and others use. You may actually have a 5 volt valve if you were just looking at the 43A model. You can see the 5VDC on the middle left of Renie's label. Check yours or post a pic of the label. You're not on the wrong track, it's just that something like that can cause some performance issues that will get you sooner or later.

    If you look at solenoid coils in general, they like high voltage for the initial pull-in, but they can only take a certain amount of steady current. That means if we are only powering them for about 10 milliseconds out of 50 milliseconds (which is called a 20% duty cycle), we can get away with almost doubling the rated voltage. When you give them lower voltage than they were designed for, they will be slower and weaker.
    Last edited by Spider-TW; 02-25-2014 at 02:50 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT Lover View Post
    English guys lol!!! Do I need a different noid or something?
    as Spider-TW said it should be on the label on the noid

  24. #24
    1780918_10200691055438014_1247092191_n.jpg

    when i bought it i figured good enough for a shocker/ viking god enough for what i want..... that is the only reason i got this so if i need a different noidl, barbs r just in random holes so i dont lose them lol.... lmk ty guys

  25. #25
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    That noid will be fine you msy just have to test the port combination and use a m3 bolt/grub screw to block onefof the ports
    try the setup I mentioned above

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by renie View Post
    That noid will be fine you msy just have to test the port combination and use a m3 bolt/grub screw to block onefof the ports
    try the setup I mentioned above
    When you test it, don't leave 9 volts on it for more than a few seconds at a time. It's rated for 5 volts continuous and 9 should heat it up. Usually the electronics and short pulse limit the power, so if you direct connect it to a battery, use an old weakened 9 volt or a four pack of 1.5 volt batteries.

    Idk how these act to over-voltage, but the little SMCs get a bit toasty.

  27. #27
    Well the plan is to.use it with a 9volt all.the time? Should I.put a resatior in it or something?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT Lover View Post
    Well the plan is to.use it with a 9volt all.the time? Should I.put a resatior in it or something?
    It's OK to use a 9 volt for a second at a time. Just don't leave the solenoid on for longer than that without letting it cool first. Normally, if you are shooting 20 bps, the solenoid will only be on for 10 msec at a time.

  29. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-TW View Post
    It's OK to use a 9 volt for a second at a time. Just don't leave the solenoid on for longer than that without letting it cool first. Normally, if you are shooting 20 bps, the solenoid will only be on for 10 msec at a time.
    What!? Lol do I need to run a switch?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by RT Lover View Post
    What!? Lol do I need to run a switch?
    If you test the solenoid, not connected to a board, don't leave it connected to the battery. A switch is nice, but not necessary for testing.

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