Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 61 to 67 of 67

Thread: It's time for a new automag body... a "resurrection" automag

  1. #61
    Can you do a clam type body that would incase the ule? I have an idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    I could print you some one color skins to go over you ule.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    triple mag shop.
    Posts
    3,086
    Quote Originally Posted by C_losjoker View Post
    Can you do a clam type body that would incase the ule? I have an idea.
    if you have thoughts and such, drawings, or just questions, pm so I don't kill this thread of the rails.
    My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!

  3. #63
    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    ccm owners dont complain about them because most are underboring anyway. i havent had working detents in my s6 in years. this detent system has already been done.doc machine uses them on his mag to cocker adapters. i would rather have the ball detents than the nubbins. but if you are trying to make them. i would mod a rebuildable detent to work if it came down to it. use one of these http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/misc/v2/ fill in the part that threads in and redrill a hole for the nubbin and put it back together. saves you having to do machining to the body and will fit all mag bodies.
    What's the bore size of Doc's Adapter? (Twistlock to AC) Can you underbore it?

  4. #64
    Quote Originally Posted by djinnform View Post
    What's the bore size of Doc's Adapter? (Twistlock to AC) Can you underbore it?
    It's just an adapter to allow you to use any cocker-threaded barrel. It has no bore size, because there is no bore. Put any bore size on it that you want.

  5. #65
    Actually, the adapter does have a bore size.

    The automag bolt is very close to 0.680, so the adapter has to at least clear that. I've got one of Doc's around here; I think it came out to at least 0.685 measured. If I find it I'll see, but for the purposes of the question, you can't underbore the adapter because then the bolt's going to have a bad day.
    "Accuracy by aiming."


    Definitely not on the A-Team.

  6. #66
    I have to disagree. A bore size is just that - the size of the bore. Since the adapter has no bore, it can have no bore size.

    It does have a breech size, but that makes no difference on underboring, overboring or bore-to-paint matching.

    On twistlock barrels, the bore and breech are permanently connected as one barrel (or barrel back in 2-piece situations). On cocker-threaded bodies (ex. ULE bodies) the breech remains as part of the body, and the bore (barrel) is connected. On TL bodies with an adapter, the adapter serves as a less easily removed breech, to which the bore is again connected.

  7. #67
    Quote Originally Posted by Justus View Post
    I have to disagree. A bore size is just that - the size of the bore. Since the adapter has no bore, it can have no bore size.

    It does have a breech size, but that makes no difference on underboring, overboring or bore-to-paint matching.

    On twistlock barrels, the bore and breech are permanently connected as one barrel (or barrel back in 2-piece situations). On cocker-threaded bodies (ex. ULE bodies) the breech remains as part of the body, and the bore (barrel) is connected. On TL bodies with an adapter, the adapter serves as a less easily removed breech, to which the bore is again connected.
    Ah yes; that's technically breech size.

    Breech size can matter though. It's where the ball drops in. If it's too large, it allows the next ball in the stack to partially enter the chamber and you get the wounding-the-next-ball effect.

    Or if you have a curiously shaped paintball with a skirt on the backend that you don't want the bolt hitting -- the way to address that is by adjusting the breech...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •