WTB - RT pin and RT bottom to complete RT on/off valve for 68 Classic trigger pull

[Mr. Red]

Hello. Found a RT on/off valve in my automag parts collection, and I'm now wanting to put it in a 68 Classic valve to reduce the trigger pull. Since I've never replaced the on/off assembly, I'm not exactly sure on all that is needed. However, based on the AGD RT Valve Diagrams it looks like I need a RT PIN and a RT BOTTOM to make it complete. Does this drop-in mod need a certain pin length to make it work correctly in a 68 classic valve?

I know I can always place an order with AGD to get these parts, but if anyone already has these parts sitting in their parts box, please let me know.

- RED

PS. does any one know what the on/off assembly on the right is (was in the same spare parts bag)?

[vintage]

there was something on either paintball talk or tech a couple of months ago. BTAutomag know all about it.

[BTAutoMag]

wait wait wait... how did I get thrown into this?!



my advice with on/off is always keep baggies around and keep every part of every on/off you have in thair own complete bags. it gets dangerous when you start trying to piece together on/offs and many people will not part them. buy a complete one and leave that part in your bag

[vintage]

how to lighten trigger pull on classic valve on 11-03-13 that was the one I was referring to.

[Mr. Red]

there was something on either paintball talk or tech a couple of months ago. BTAutomag know all about it.

Called into AGD today, and size .750 (default) is the pin they decided to recommend. The tech never heard of switching the classic on/off valve with a rt on/off valve, on a 68 classic valve, to reduce some of the trigger pull.

[BTAutoMag]

...wow

[blackdeath1k]

Double WOW! My minimag had a RT on/off. The 0.75 pin in it was me filing the longer pin that was there when I got the marker down though.

[Sk8ermog]

I put a RT on/off in my classic to get it to work with my hyperframe in this thread:

https://www.automags.org/forums/showt...ag-Restoration

I used a pin that was a bit smaller then the .750 to get it to work at it's best. I would highly suggest starting with the longest pin you can find and then working your way down.

Also to answer your other question that on/off on the right is an aftermarket on/off that was used for either a Booyah or Hyperframe. They work well ok but have a tendency of short stroking if you try to use a mech trigger. They work great if you have a noid hitting the sear for you.

If you want to lighten the trigger then you can compete your RT on/off by getting a top, the 4 on/off orings and a long pin. That will defiantly lighten the trigger pull, but you'll have to be careful of short stroking.

Just wondering why you'd want to "improve" on a classic valve on not just use a RT valve. Do you need it to run on CO2?