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Thread: E-LCD Mag (Booyah) frame issues...any help appreciated.

  1. #1
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    E-LCD Mag (Booyah) frame issues...any help appreciated.

    Hey guys,

    I have a couple of E-LCD Mag frames. The LCD screens work. The trigger switches work, and the solenoid works.

    HOWEVER, the solenoid does not seem strong enough to cause the sear to trip. I HAVE A BRAND NEW BATTERY TOO. It's the same on both frames.

    With the frame off, I can press against the solenoid plunger with an allen wrench and pull the trigger to watch the plunger push against the wrench. It doesn't seem strong enough to handle the pressure the on/off pin is applying to the sear. This is with a Classic valve running CA.

    Were the solenoids just weak? Were they regularly replaced? Is there an easy fix? Should I send it to Luke?

    Any response is appreciated

  2. #2
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    Sounds correct. You need at least the equivalent of an RT on/off in the valve to lighten the load on the solenoid. Some of these old e-frames came with a new on/off assembly for that reason. BigEvil has tinkered with these, iirc.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-TW View Post
    Sounds correct. You need at least the equivalent of an RT on/off in the valve to lighten the load on the solenoid. Some of these old e-frames came with a new on/off assembly for that reason. BigEvil has tinkered with these, iirc.
    Cool, let's see what others have to say before I pester BigE or Luke

  4. #4
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    Cant use a regular on/off for it. Either need the Booyah or centerflag specific on/off assembly, or a ULT (which wont run in a classic valve)
    I love booyahh frames, they are fantastic!

  5. #5
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    bigE told me that the booyaah and centerflag on/off pins are identical to the rt ones. havnt confimed this but I remember him saying this

    To leave feedback: Click seller/buyers name, Click feedback score, Click leave feedback

  6. #6
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    Try using a RT on/off with a .740 pin. You can also try to use the emag quad oring if that still doesnt work. That noid will have trouble with a classic on/off assembly for sure.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Try using a RT on/off with a .740 pin. You can also try to use the emag quad oring if that still doesnt work. That noid will have trouble with a classic on/off assembly for sure.
    Awesome guys! I do seem to remember a new on/off assembly coming with these, but I'll be damned if I can find it. I'll an RT and see what happens. Thanks too all.

    Any other input is appreciated as well.

    SJ

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SummaryJudgement View Post
    Awesome guys! I do seem to remember a new on/off assembly coming with these, but I'll be damned if I can find it. I'll an RT and see what happens. Thanks too all.

    Any other input is appreciated as well.

    SJ
    The dwell on something like this should be low, like around 6ms. I don't know how the BOOYAA frames are set up, but use 6ms as a starting point. Anything over 10 ms and there is an issue.

    You could also go shorter on the on off pin, but dont go shorter than emag length.

  9. #9
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    First off, you should be using a 9.6V battery - that might solve your problem.

    Second, the solenoids were notoriously ****e compared the (real) Hyperframe so it could be on its way out.

    Good luck!

  10. #10
    I run a booyaah on my pmi for back up and used it as my main at times..... It's badass

  11. #11
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    Since we're on the subject what would be a decent and easy replacement board for the old Booyaa frame, I fried mine good.
    A proud Canadian EH

  12. #12
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    I think Luke may be the guy to talk to about replacing boards iirc.

    I got it working guys. Dug around for a couple of HOURS and actually found the part that came with the grip to modify the on/off. I was confused at first as the powertube o-ring ate itself at the exact time as i fixed the frame issue. New powertube o-ring, works like a champ in all modes now. n

    I'll also look into the 9.6 volt battery. Brand new 9-volts I use register as very low on the LCD batt level meter...thing. Other wise it's shooting and looking good.

    I would be interested also if anyone had better knowledge of replacement parts and related info

  13. #13
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    I suspect you might be able to use APE boards and solenoids with some modifications though I never tried to do it myself. I don't think the scenario dreams universal boards are still available but you could try their site.

  14. #14
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    I have lots of extra hyperframe boards that might work in your BooYah with some modifications. The biggest thing with the booyah frames is that they like the 9.6volt batteries vs the normal 9volt. They can work with 9volt just fine, but will always show a lower battery. LMK if you want a hyperframe board. Here is a pic of what they look like:

    http://www.pbase.com/rgunn4/image/153802808

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sk8ermog View Post
    I have lots of extra hyperframe boards that might work in your BooYah with some modifications. The biggest thing with the booyah frames is that they like the 9.6volt batteries vs the normal 9volt. They can work with 9volt just fine, but will always show a lower battery. LMK if you want a hyperframe board. Here is a pic of what they look like:

    http://www.pbase.com/rgunn4/image/153802808
    Very cool! You will be the guy I hit-up if I ever need hyperframe stuff...and Luke

    I have the frame running on a Classic valved Minimag with splash kit. It's so cool I don't think I'm going to sell it

  16. #16
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    Glad to see you not only got it up and running but also got a bit of an education as well

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