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Thread: Uni-Frame?

  1. #91
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    Do you have a ballpark price yet?
    It sounds like I might need one of these.
    Kory
    Micromag rt, 68 ci flatline,12"ss total freak ,warpdrive, 12volt revi.homemade intelliframe.

  2. #92
    Quote Originally Posted by cougar20th View Post
    Its all moving forward. Pretty fast as well. Ive made alot of small and a couple large changes. Probably have spent another 20 hours tweaking this thing to perfection. The parts are out for qoute now. Then prototype and test. Then preorder and build.

    The frame is now pnue compliant. Has a really cool custom trigger to go with it. Possibly a couple of options as well.
    Can you post what it looks like, even side views would be nice.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kory View Post
    Do you have a ballpark price yet?
    It sounds like I might need one of these.
    Kory
    I wont know costs until I get the quote back, figure out anodize cost, and screw cost. Im going to try to keep it as reasonable as possible.


    I wont have pictures until the prototypes done. I feel my renderings show to much of my design right now. And I dont want someone copying it before I get it out.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  4. #94
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    That's understandable. i'll be looking forward to the finished product.

  5. #95
    ...and screw cost. Im going to try to keep it as reasonable as possible.


    I like your thinking

    -grub

  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by grub View Post
    ...and screw cost. Im going to try to keep it as reasonable as possible.


    I like your thinking

    -grub
    Lol nice. At least i got the punctuation in the right place. Im sure you know what I mean.
    Example. I ended up with a $75 order of screws and pins for the run of M86. But everythings stainless steel because the last thing I want on one of my frames is a rusted screw. So Im treating things as if they are for my personal guns.

  7. #97
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    Stainless steel and aluminum are a big no-no when used together when water is added (most of us use water down to clean our markers). When moister is added it acts like an electrolyte and corrosion will happen. This will cause the screws to weld (used for the lack of a better word) themselves to the aluminum and can actually strip the threads in the aluminum when removing the screws. Yes of course this takes 'time' but generally you ALWAYS want to use anti-seize in this situation.

    Take a look at this list. The closer the better. The reactivity of the metals decreases the closer they are in the list.

    Metal reactions list
    --------------------------------------------
    Magnesium
    Mg alloy AZ-31B
    Mg alloy HK-31A
    Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
    Beryllium (hot pressed)
    Al 7072 clad on 7075
    Al 2014-T3
    Al 1160-H14
    Al 7079-T6
    Cadmium (plated)
    Uranium
    Al 218 (die cast)
    Al 5052-0
    Al 5052-H12
    Al 5456-0, H353
    Al 5052-H32
    Al 1100-0
    Al 3003-H25
    Al 6061-T6
    Al A360 (die cast)
    Al 7075-T6
    Al 6061-0
    Indium
    Al 2014-0
    Al 2024-T4
    Al 5052-H16
    Tin (plated)
    Stainless steel 430 (active)
    Lead
    Steel 1010
    Iron (cast)
    Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
    Nickel (plated)
    Chromium (Plated)
    Tantalum
    AM350 (active)
    Stainless steel 310 (active)
    Stainless steel 301 (active)
    Stainless steel 304 (active)
    Stainless steel 430 (active)
    Stainless steel 410 (active)
    Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
    Tungsten
    Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
    Brass, Yellow, 268
    Uranium 8% Mo.
    Brass, Naval, 464
    Yellow Brass
    Muntz Metal 280
    Brass (plated)
    Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
    Stainless steel 316L (active)
    Bronze 220
    Copper 110
    Red Brass
    Stainless steel 347 (active)
    Molybdenum, Commercial pure
    Copper-nickel 715
    Admiralty brass
    Stainless steel 202 (active)
    Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
    Monel 400
    Stainless steel 201 (active)
    Carpenter 20 (active)
    Stainless steel 321 (active)
    Stainless steel 316 (active)
    Stainless steel 309 (active)
    Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
    Silicone Bronze 655
    Stainless steel 304 (passive)
    Stainless steel 301 (passive)
    Stainless steel 321 (passive)
    Stainless steel 201 (passive)
    Stainless steel 286 (passive)
    Stainless steel 316L (passive)
    AM355 (active)
    Stainless steel 202 (passive)
    Carpenter 20 (passive)
    AM355 (passive)
    A286 (passive)
    Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
    Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
    Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
    Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
    Titanium 8Mn
    Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
    Titanium 75A
    AM350 (passive)
    Silver
    Gold
    Graphite

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Stainless steel and aluminum are a big no-no when used together when water is added (most of us use water down to clean our markers). When moister is added it acts like an electrolyte and corrosion will happen. This will cause the screws to weld (used for the lack of a better word) themselves to the aluminum and can actually strip the threads in the aluminum when removing the screws. Yes of course this takes 'time' but generally you ALWAYS want to use anti-seize in this situation.

    Take a look at this list. The closer the better. The reactivity of the metals decreases the closer they are in the list.

    Metal reactions list
    --------------------------------------------
    Magnesium
    Mg alloy AZ-31B
    Mg alloy HK-31A
    Zinc (hot-dip, die cast, or plated)
    Beryllium (hot pressed)
    Al 7072 clad on 7075
    Al 2014-T3
    Al 1160-H14
    Al 7079-T6
    Cadmium (plated)
    Uranium
    Al 218 (die cast)
    Al 5052-0
    Al 5052-H12
    Al 5456-0, H353
    Al 5052-H32
    Al 1100-0
    Al 3003-H25
    Al 6061-T6
    Al A360 (die cast)
    Al 7075-T6
    Al 6061-0
    Indium
    Al 2014-0
    Al 2024-T4
    Al 5052-H16
    Tin (plated)
    Stainless steel 430 (active)
    Lead
    Steel 1010
    Iron (cast)
    Copper (plated, cast, or wrought)
    Nickel (plated)
    Chromium (Plated)
    Tantalum
    AM350 (active)
    Stainless steel 310 (active)
    Stainless steel 301 (active)
    Stainless steel 304 (active)
    Stainless steel 430 (active)
    Stainless steel 410 (active)
    Stainless steel 17-7PH (active)
    Tungsten
    Niobium (columbium) 1% Zr
    Brass, Yellow, 268
    Uranium 8% Mo.
    Brass, Naval, 464
    Yellow Brass
    Muntz Metal 280
    Brass (plated)
    Nickel-silver (18% Ni)
    Stainless steel 316L (active)
    Bronze 220
    Copper 110
    Red Brass
    Stainless steel 347 (active)
    Molybdenum, Commercial pure
    Copper-nickel 715
    Admiralty brass
    Stainless steel 202 (active)
    Bronze, Phosphor 534 (B-1)
    Monel 400
    Stainless steel 201 (active)
    Carpenter 20 (active)
    Stainless steel 321 (active)
    Stainless steel 316 (active)
    Stainless steel 309 (active)
    Stainless steel 17-7PH (passive)
    Silicone Bronze 655
    Stainless steel 304 (passive)
    Stainless steel 301 (passive)
    Stainless steel 321 (passive)
    Stainless steel 201 (passive)
    Stainless steel 286 (passive)
    Stainless steel 316L (passive)
    AM355 (active)
    Stainless steel 202 (passive)
    Carpenter 20 (passive)
    AM355 (passive)
    A286 (passive)
    Titanium 5A1, 2.5 Sn
    Titanium 13V, 11Cr, 3Al (annealed)
    Titanium 6Al, 4V (solution treated and aged)
    Titanium 6Al, 4V (anneal)
    Titanium 8Mn
    Titanium 13V, 11Cr 3Al (solution heat treated and aged)
    Titanium 75A
    AM350 (passive)
    Silver
    Gold
    Graphite
    looks like you should make parts from gold and use graphite for the screws
    My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!

  9. #99
    Uranium with Cadmium plated screws?

  10. #100
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    Or just use

  11. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Or just use
    so we should be using ati seize on our screws is what you are saying?
    I got off subject on my last post.
    if so then im set. navy has a non stop supply of this stuff.

  12. #102
    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Or just use
    I use dow33 cuz that's what I have laying around

  13. #103
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    Cottonwood, Az.
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    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    so we should be using ati seize on our screws is what you are saying?
    Yes, you should use anti seize with with ss and aluminum, paintball markers or anything for that matter especially if it will be a long term connection. I also use it on the AGD regulator spring packs.

  14. #104
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    Oct 2001
    Location
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    i am a firm believer of SS screws, but when you are talking about reactivity, are you talking bare aluminium and stainless or does the anno help at all? but anti-seize of any sort will help. i, for one, work on guns for people and RED LOCTITE is not an anti-seize and should never be used in paintball.

  15. #105
    Anno will help some but it's not the right answer on its own. At work we have a few rules based on environment. This ranges widely from exposed decks where we go with conversion coated Al with stainless helicoils which have been wet assembled with a zinc rich primer, fasteners installed into coils with marine grade antiseize. Inside vessel in a "controlled" environment: wet assembly of stainless fasteners directly into annodized Al is acceptable with the right compound. There are lots of options in between too.

    We use the Henkel stuff (yup , loc tite branded) and it does let you get away with a lot... It's pretty good stuff.

    Keep in mind that it will change the installation torques of fasteners.

    EDIT: might also be worth noting that carbon steel into al isn't exactly optimal either
    Last edited by Spiritchaser; 01-26-2014 at 06:33 AM.

  16. #106
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    Finally got some renderings with grip panels. Also shows the new trigger.

    Scott(BigEvil) is gonna be testing the prototype for me. All I have is S/S bodied mags.

    Also named the frame.
    KAM Designs, Demon Series K45AI

    First is with the custom fore-grip. Ive lightened that up so its not as "heavy" feeling.


    Second is showing the optional Vert asa and a Benchmark ASA gas thru fore-grip. I should have a very limited number of benchmark fore-grips to sell with the frames.
    The frame is slotted so you can add whatever fore-grip you want if desired.


    Aluminum parts for the Custom Foregrip variant equals right around 5/8 of a pound for weight. Its about as light as it can do. Plenty of internal milling and weight removal everywhere. That weight does not include any hardware (screws, sear, pins)

  17. #107
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    That's nashtee Keith...nashtee

  18. #108
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    Me likey! I'm definitely in for one without the custom fore grip.

  19. #109
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    Looks good, I think you nailed.

  20. #110
    I like both.
    As far as mounting the optional vert asa does it pinch the rail then bolt up as the old style does from the top?
    And if so couldn't you do the same with the custom vert grip?
    ANY HOW great looking uniframe

  21. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by river031403 View Post
    I like both.
    As far as mounting the optional vert asa does it pinch the rail then bolt up as the old style does from the top?
    And if so couldn't you do the same with the custom vert grip?
    ANY HOW great looking uniframe
    Bolting the vert asa is from the top of the rail down into threaded holes on the asa. Same idea as the bike grips on a RT mag.

  22. #112
    Quote Originally Posted by cougar20th View Post
    Bolting the vert asa is from the top of the rail down into threaded holes on the asa. Same idea as the bike grips on a RT mag.
    Nice! AM/MM style sear pin?

  23. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmagterror View Post
    Nice! AM/MM style sear pin?

    nope

    "I'm not happy unless you're not happy"

  24. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xmagterror View Post
    Nice! AM/MM style sear pin?
    Tryed a am/mm style with less then perfect results. This is gonna be a modified (shortened) RT pin. One will come with the frames when I sell them.

  25. #115
    Quote Originally Posted by cougar20th View Post
    Bolting the vert asa is from the top of the rail down into threaded holes on the asa. Same idea as the bike grips on a RT mag.
    ^^i thought so.
    So couldn't you do the other one in pic#1 the same way?

  26. #116
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    Wonderfull !

    I like both.

    I'll take one for sure !

    The most difficult will be to choose which one !

  27. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by river031403 View Post
    ^^i thought so.
    So couldn't you do the other one in pic#1 the same way?
    It does bolt the same way. Just wraps the front of the frame to give a more complete part.

    Quote Originally Posted by maverick13 View Post
    Wonderfull !
    The most difficult will be to choose which one !
    Why chose one. Just buy all the parts. That way you can swap them to whatever you want.

    Once Scott(BigEvil) signs off on the prototype being perfect I will start a pre-order. Still gotta figure out a pricing structure because I can see already that everyone's gonna want a different set of parts.
    Last edited by cougar20th; 01-28-2014 at 12:49 PM.

  28. #118
    [QUOTE=cougar20th;2851013]It does bolt the same way. Just wraps the front of the frame to give a more complete part.

    Cool just had to clarify for the masses.
    Great design!

  29. #119
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    Can't wait to get this project done and then on to the next.

  30. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post


    Can't wait to get this project done and then on to the next.
    How do you know whats next if I don't even know whats next....Can I hibernate for the rest of winter?


    And for fun. Some extra renderings. This will give you guys a idea of how they will look on a gun.
    Once I get the prototype Ill have pictures.




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