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Thread: new to the level 10 and an issue I think may have to do with tuning.

  1. #1
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    new to the level 10 and an issue I think may have to do with tuning.

    In one of my big trades last fall I acquired a old RTPro with level 10 that had set for what. I'm guessing in the range of 10 years based on the setup I got. But anyways. Pouring oil in it. And hooking up a 900psi adjustable reg tank to the marker it dry fired fine from what I could tell with the few shots I took. I then parted that body out but kept the valve. Now I have that valve, level 10, rail, grip frame, and NOW it has a minimag body on it. I finally got a CP ASA, drop forward, fittings, and macro on the marker. Hooked up my 850psi crossfire screw in tank that i plan to have my wife using with this marker and I've got issues. It may or may not fire a few times sluggesh and then not reset totally. The 850 crossfire tank had worked great for my wife all last year with a classic minimag valve on said minimag. And since the marker doesn't appear to have any leaks or anything my main 2 guesses start with the level 10 tuning. And or the 850psi output crossfire tank.

    I do have a pm with tuna for ordering a complete rebuild kit since the marker has sat for a while. And I'm gonna get a level 7 power tube tip and spacer kit for a fallback since I have experience with working the 7. But before I spend a ton of time messing with this with the level 10 installed. Does its tuning sound like the potential issue? I do NOT have any spair level 10 parts. So if that is the issue it will go back level 7 in a heartbeat. I'm just trying to get an idea of what's up before any parts arrive.

  2. #2
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    Sounds to me like the carrier is too tight, or that the rail is letting the valve to get slightly miss aligned with the body. Check the field strip screw if loosening or tightening it a bit makes any difference. Though I think it's more likely to be the carrier.

    I'm sure Athomas or someone else with more knowledge will have more comprehensive guide to solve your problem.

  3. #3
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    1) check the length on the sear rod.
    2) check the oring on the carrier.
    3) check the oring on the on/off.
    4) check length on return spring.

    but it would be helpful if you had some more details, like if you have a complete L10 kit and anything else that is on the gun/setup. not all parts are equal.

  4. #4
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    If there are no leaks anywhere in the valve, chances are that the orings are fine. You should still order a complete rebuild kit just to have one on hand anyway. You should also have a carrier set for your level 10 bolt. Not all orings are 100% identical, so you need the different sized carriers to adjust the tension on the carrier oring if you change it or if parameters change due to wear or atmospheric conditions. You should also have extra bolt springs. They are a consumable item that wear out and should be replaced on a regular basis.

    Check your ASA to make sure the tank regulator pin isn't getting pushed in too far and cutting off the air supply.

    Tune your level 10 bolt system. Level 10 tuning guide.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody View Post
    1) check the length on the sear rod.
    2) check the oring on the carrier.
    3) check the oring on the on/off.
    4) check length on return spring.

    but it would be helpful if you had some more details, like if you have a complete L10 kit and anything else that is on the gun/setup. not all parts are equal.
    Sear rod is perfect.
    On/off Oring looks fine. (Full parts kit being ordered though as orings are old.)

    I know nothing about the carrier. Assume the is the level 10 part in the power tube. I can check that tonight. I will also get a spring color and length tonight.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    If there are no leaks anywhere in the valve, chances are that the orings are fine. You should still order a complete rebuild kit just to have one on hand anyway. You should also have a carrier set for your level 10 bolt. Not all orings are 100% identical, so you need the different sized carriers to adjust the tension on the carrier oring if you change it or if parameters change due to wear or atmospheric conditions. You should also have extra bolt springs. They are a consumable item that wear out and should be replaced on a regular basis.

    Check your ASA to make sure the tank regulator pin isn't getting pushed in too far and cutting off the air supply.

    Tune your level 10 bolt system. Level 10 tuning guide.
    OH! And OPBN. No I do not have any level 10 parts except what came in the marker.

    I will make sure the ASA pin isn't an issue. Dont think so. But I will check.

    I was kinda thinking this had to do with the level 10. Just wasn't sure so thought I would ask. Buying shims. A carrier set. And springs will depend on price. Level 7 sure is easy to mess with.

  7. #7
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    You'll need bolt springs, even if you have a level 7. They wear out on all bolt systems. If you have a level 7, you will also need a spacer kit.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    You'll need bolt springs, even if you have a level 7. They wear out on all bolt systems. If you have a level 7, you will also need a spacer kit.
    Actually I'm only missing one spacer from my spacer kit. But that was in my plan. And I have 2 or 3 new bolt springs for level 7.

    BUT! I feel like a total NOOB to mags. Loostened the field strip screw and ran 1000psi worth of air through it. (With my old RTS banjo bolt it works best with it actually tight. Forgot they all ha e a happy spot.) But loosened it a little and it Worked great. At the end I started having a little air down the barrel. But that I'm sure is a power tube Oring complements of how long it has set. And yes. Hold the trigger in and leak is gone.

    If I actually buy a parts kit for the 10. Can you get the carriers in a set pack? Or what parts should I buy to have a "level 10 parts kit". since right now all I have is what is in the marker. And that bothers me.

  9. #9
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    You only need to buy the carriers and orings to have a level 10 parts kit. The level 7 bolt springs will work fine. If you want the benefit of an optimum tuned system, then you need the longer bolt springs as well. When buying carriers, you typically only need the 0, 0.5, 1.0, 1.5 and 2.0 sizes. Since you already have one of them installed, you only need to buy 4 of them to have a complete set of most used sizes.

  10. #10
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    And shims? Any special Orings to the level 10 that must be purchased separate?

    Guess I can build up this kit once and be do e with it
    Last edited by blackdeath1k; 02-08-2014 at 01:00 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    And shims? Any special Orings to the level 10 that must be purchased separate?

    Guess I can build up this kit once and be do e with it
    You shouldn't need any shims.

  12. #12
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    You don't need shims. They really don't do anything useful. The white powertube carrier oring is the same oring as the retro/X valve regulator seat oring. If you have an X valve parts kit, then you will have 3 of these. The X valve parts kit has all orings you need for a retro valve with level 10, even spare level 10 backing washers.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    You don't need shims. They really don't do anything useful. The white powertube carrier oring is the same oring as the retro/X valve regulator seat oring. If you have an X valve parts kit, then you will have 3 of these. The X valve parts kit has all orings you need for a retro valve with level 10, even spare level 10 backing washers.
    Well. Crosschecking the parts in a xvalve parts kit. And a automagrt parts kit. It looks like if I buy an xvalve kit. Add banjo Orings , barrel orings, and bolt springs I wil be good there. Then just buy all the carriers that I don't have. Yay! Not much different in price than if I got everything for a level.

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