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Thread: Warpless z2

  1. #31
    I'm with BE, I think. I angle my warp bracket all the way forward so that the warpfeed sits parallel with my forearm at a diagonal angle. Then adjust my hopper so that it sits facing forward again, and the warp hose comes out along the right side without needing any hopper mods (no hose-through, no melting and molding around the hose).

    That said, without the warpfeed, the hopper is going to sit at pretty much the same level and the bulk of the warpfeed is not going to be in the way of a user's forearm. SO I don't think it's really going to matter much, except where and at what angle you have your warp hose exiting your warpless hopper. But, for that reason and because different hoppers are shaped differently, and have a feed tube positioned differently on the bottom, even though it may be perfectly fine to have the hopper sit back by the grip, it also may be better to have some flexibility.

    I do like the fact that the sample CAD looks to have a clamping bracket kind of like a Kapp drop (I used a modified version of that with my first warpless Halo). That is a better solution than drilling a hole in a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum bar and putting tape or a clamp on the bottom of the hopper.

  2. #32
    Anyone with 3D printer access and knowhow have any ideas on what it might be like to print up an upward feed diverter that works well with warpfeed hose? I'm thinking of something that will drop in with just two holes drilled, and will keep the warp hose pressed into place kind of like the way the newer 90* black Qloader elbows work.

    Googled pic:

    Name:  qloader-hoseadap.jpeg
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Size:  2.5 KB

  3. #33
    Luke, any chance of getting any of those brackets made before LL7 (weekend of May 17)? I don't know what you're thinking on timetable.

  4. #34
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    I will make them but I wont stock them on the shelves. It would have to be an order of 25 to get the project done. Paid projects go to the top of the list. Price would be a little more than my current warpfeed brackets because they wont be a stock item.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Sweet. Im going to have to try this.. I have a prophecy laying around. If there was a demand for it, maybe we could come up with 3d printed loader trays for various loaders that feed up.
    From what I've seen, now that I have a Z2 in-hand, is a minimum of two parts needing to be replaced.

    The first is the "slide", shown here:
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    The slide allows the paint to feed downward. It would need redone to cause the paint to feed upward.

    The second piece is the "outlet cover", shown here:
    Name:  GP14334-2.jpg
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    The outlet cover mirrors the original slide, and also contains the anti-jam freeway. It would need redone to cause the paint to feed upward.

    Ideally, those pieces could be formed into one 3D printed part and would be angled at about 45* toward the right-hand side of the shell to accommodate the mod. Then, to make the system really drop-in, a new floor could be printed with a hole in the proper spot, to allow the newly printed slide/outlet cover to fit through. Or, of course, you could require people to just drill a hole in their existing floor at just the right spot.

    Here's a pic of the "floor":
    Name:  GP14333-2.jpg
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    Once this is done, the internals would be modified for upward feeding, and all that would need to be done to complete the mod is to drill a hole in your shell of choice (normal/high-cap/whatever color) and feed some warp hose through. The warp hose would need to fit over the newly designed slide/outlet piece, snugly, just like it does with the newer qloader 90* angle connections like I posted before.



    If someone were really interested in redoing these parts and having them printed, I'd be super interested in purchasing them to have a perfectly clean mod done. If not, then copper pipe and a dremel it is!

  6. #36
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    Got the 240 shells and with the release clip up higher the feed tube doesn't interfere with it.


  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syko89 View Post
    Got the 240 shells and with the release clip up higher the feed tube doesn't interfere with it.

    Im curious to see your mounting bracket

  8. #38
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    1/8th inch aluminum stock.







    sprayed with rhino liner. Will redone when I anno the lowers
    Last edited by Syko89; 03-30-2014 at 11:58 AM.

  9. #39
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    Nice. Thanks. I gotta get busy.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Nice. Thanks. I gotta get busy.
    Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syko89 View Post
    Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
    I am a huge fan of the warp concept but so hate the extra pound it adds to the gun.

  12. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    I am a huge fan of the warp concept but so hate the extra pound it adds to the gun.
    Agreed. And it makes the gun sit so awkwardly, you can't put it down easily.

  13. #43
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    I have a bracket I have been developing. I will post up a Solidworks pic when I can get to the computer that has it!
    ......You know you want one!!

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loguzzzzzz View Post
    I have a bracket I have been developing. I will post up a Solidworks pic when I can get to the computer that has it!
    About time there you passive troublemaker you!

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loguzzzzzz View Post
    I have a bracket I have been developing. I will post up a Solidworks pic when I can get to the computer that has it!
    I'd be interested

  16. #46
    I have had my cousin working on one for awhile now too (engineering student with access to all kinds of toys). I sent him instructions to modify the design a bit a few days back. Should see something back from him soon.

    Basically, my concept was if a warpfeed bracket and the bulky part of a Kapp drop had a baby, and it clamped to a hopper instead of a bottle regulator. That's because I had been using, literally, part of an old PTP warpfeed mount bolted to a Kapp drop turned sideways.

  17. #47
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    Update: first day of actual play brought up some issues. Feeding had moments of being in consist towards the middle of the day. Changed the battery and got better. What's the problem you ask? The lithium ion batteries where installed that morning. I noticed that the auto anti jam is activating a lot causing interrupted feeding and killing the battery. Looking for a fix will keep you all posted on the progress. Just being up front before someone else cuts up a good loader

  18. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Syko89 View Post
    Update: first day of actual play brought up some issues. Feeding had moments of being in consist towards the middle of the day. Changed the battery and got better. What's the problem you ask? The lithium ion batteries where installed that morning. I noticed that the auto anti jam is activating a lot causing interrupted feeding and killing the battery. Looking for a fix will keep you all posted on the progress. Just being up front before someone else cuts up a good loader
    When I did mine I used the Halo Too and a Halo B2 because you can turn off the tension sensor to keep it from stopping intermittently if the stack pressure gets too high. I've used mine playing 2 day events and not changing the batteries but I use the 2 nine volt in parallel setup. See if the Z2 has a setting to turn off the tension sensor or antijam feature.

  19. #49
    Here's the info you need:

    http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=3801842

    Look at what Simon says about the red light - motor sensing - on/off.

  20. #50
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    Yeah I did that and it didn't seem to have any affect. Function wise I had Better luck with the Halo too but want the disassembly and lower profile of the z2. Might take z2 board out and mount a halo 2 board in the back she'll piece
    Last edited by Syko89; 04-21-2014 at 04:00 PM.

  21. #51
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    But just FYI. If you are using a halo the scion z2 style wheel fits in the Halo raceway with a little trimming of the cups
    Last edited by Syko89; 04-21-2014 at 06:14 PM.

  22. #52
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    First, let's get this out of the way before GH posts it....



    Now to my question. Can the parts from the Empire Defender's loader and plumbing be used? Also, is the motor or cup different from the Z2? I only did a quick search, but couldn't really compare them.

    I love that they went with an integrated loader, but it looks like the shoulder to grip length is longer than I would like and I don't think there is any way to adjust it.
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  23. #53
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    I thought about this but I got shoot down with just about every place I tried to get the internals of the loader. The defenders loaders board is also integrated with the markers board.

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