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Thread: Less reactivity

  1. #1

    Less reactivity

    So I have a mag again, the last mag I had around 1994 or so. This thing is a Beast! I would like to use the X-valve I have for mechanical leages but it is really an unfair advantage. Is there a pressure range that will allow me to have a light RT trigger without ramping like strings? I picked up a smart valve and played with that last night, it works great but the trigger is pretty heavy and I'd like to fix that if I can. Any advice would be great.

  2. #2
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    wat on/off are you using in your X-Valve? can ya give more info about your set up so its easier to give ya advice man???

  3. #3
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    you can make a xvalve full semi by adding another oring between the reg section on the little brass piece. should be the same size as the oring that stays in the reg section when you remove in. you can also replace the top inner on/off oring and it should slow it down because it will no longer be broken in.

    classic valve trigger can be made lighter using an rt on/off with the stock pin. dont try the ult because you will have short stroking issues.

    think that's what you wanted.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the advice guys, I'll pull the on/off out and see what is in the X-valve. When I got it a few weeks ago it worked fine so I didn't pull it apart at all.

  5. #5
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    You can lower the input pressure to fade the reactivity on a regular RT on/off. The ULT reduces reactivity also, but a higher input pressure will help its reliability. So somewhere between the two, you can find something that matches your bottle setup and your stable of mags to your trigger preference. A ULT at higher pressure will bounce relatively fast, but very lightly. An RT on/off at lower pressure will bounce harder, but at a slower rate.

    You can also match your trigger to your feed system, so that you can RT in bits without having to run a high dollar force feeder.

  6. #6
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    get a .750 on/off pin and that should eliminate reactivity. use a normal HP tank(800psi or so) and you shouldn't get any reactivity.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody View Post
    get a .750 on/off pin and that should eliminate reactivity. use a normal HP tank(800psi or so) and you shouldn't get any reactivity.
    you mean like this .750 pin?


    To leave feedback: Click seller/buyers name, Click feedback score, Click leave feedback

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nobody View Post
    get a .750 on/off pin and that should eliminate reactivity. use a normal HP tank(800psi or so) and you shouldn't get any reactivity.
    I still get reactivity with .750 on my main x-valve. With about 800psi output.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laku View Post
    I still get reactivity with .750 on my main x-valve. With about 800psi output.
    What kind of bottle reg is that with?

    Yeah, worn-in and lubed, maybe a slightly thicker rail or looser field strip screw, they can take off. The more they RT, the easier it seems to get.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-TW View Post
    What kind of bottle reg is that with? Yeah, worn-in and lubed, maybe a slightly thicker rail or looser field strip screw, they can take off. The more they RT, the easier it seems to get.
    Ninja HP and shadow rail.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laku View Post
    Ninja HP and shadow rail.
    Yeah, my 800 psi old crossfire can keep up but will only rt once . Makes decent doubles, but has no backbone when you really want it.

  12. #12
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    A benchmark frame with the fat trigger pretty much eliminates that RT effect since it moves the sear differently. At least that's been my experience. Here is the type of frame I'm talking about on a micromag. I later had 1200 psi on it, and couldn't get much RT:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryII_1_kXXE

  13. #13
    Ok, I've been looking and I think the on/off assembly is the ULT version. I bought it as a Tac-one but I didn't know if it was built up that way or purchased as a Tac-one. Looks like it was purchased that way.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by thehackleguy View Post
    Ok, I've been looking and I think the on/off assembly is the ULT version. I bought it as a Tac-one but I didn't know if it was built up that way or purchased as a Tac-one. Looks like it was purchased that way.
    Post a picture up and we can confirm. Taking the guesswork out of your set up helps to give the proper advice.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Post a picture up and we can confirm. Taking the guesswork out of your set up helps to give the proper advice.
    Looks exactly like this:ULT.jpg
    Last edited by thehackleguy; 02-17-2014 at 08:44 AM.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by thehackleguy View Post
    Looks exactly like this:ULT.jpg
    Then yes, you have a ULT. How many shims are in it?

  17. #17
    I think there were 4 but one of them was all bent to hell. I'll have to check to make sure, is there an optimum number that should be in there?

  18. #18
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    Take all the shims out and see where you are. I have three in mine and it RT's really well.

  19. #19
    Will do thanks, I also looked at the ULT thread a little more....don't have time to look at the whole thing now..

  20. #20
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    Do to several things, reactivity can substantially vary from valve to valve. I have had ones that I just couldn't get to RT very well, and others that will RT like crazy on 850 psi. It may take you some time to tune it to where you want it to be, so to be quite blunt, take the time to read through things and become as familiar with it all as you can. Changing A leads to changes is B. Changing B can lead to changes in C and D. It's a lot of trial and error. There is no "magic combo" that works for everyone.

    While I am going for just the opposite, it took me several set ups, lots of testing, and several days of play over a couple of years for me to get it where I want it:

    Last edited by OPBN; 02-18-2014 at 11:23 AM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by burscott View Post
    A benchmark frame with the fat trigger pretty much eliminates that RT effect since it moves the sear differently. At least that's been my experience. Here is the type of frame I'm talking about on a micromag.
    I'v had the opposite experience with a Benchmark on my old RT valved Minimag. That beast would RT like a charm at 900psi or more, and was easy to sweetspot with that longer pull.
    It really is all dependent on the valve. Even though internally they are the exact same, they each have a personality.

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