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Thread: im having serious problems getting my mag shooting right

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    im having serious problems getting my mag shooting right

    I have been trying to adjust my level 10 and I keep making things worse the bolt was sticking on balls not fully chambered, now I have a blender and my bolt wont stop on anything. I pulled out the ult that was in my x-valve and replaced it with a rt on/off. its rting like crazy, even when I have my tank input set down to 700 psi. my setup is helios body, rtp rail, rpg intelli, x-valve, lvl 10 with red spring on it. I had the lvl 10 with gold spring, 4 lvlx shims, and ult on/off in it and it was shooting good except the bolt would stick on balls not fully chambered. I don't know whats going on here but its starting to drive me crazy!

  2. #2
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    #1 Buck Adams fan
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    Need more info..

    Twist lock body? or? What size on/off pin? What other parts?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    Helios body, rtp rail, xvalve, rpg intelli w splinter blade, apocalypse reg, ive got the lvlx set up with red spring 0 carrier, no shims, the rt on/off is stock.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    South Jersey
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    I don't know too much about much... but the 0 carrier sounds really tight. Possibly too tight to vent properly on a misfed ball?
    All I got for now.
    Thanks,
    Jason

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
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    If you are getting an RT effect with low input pressure, you might want to check the sear. Sounds like you are having several issues. This might be part of it.

  6. #6
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    Nov 2013
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    P Its a brand new sear, whats the messurement im looking for? Ive got a 1cm gap between it and the trigger

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    Quote Originally Posted by magman313 View Post
    P Its a brand new sear, whats the messurement im looking for? Ive got a 1cm gap between it and the trigger
    You mean 1 mm gap? if it's 1 cm it's way too much. About credit card thickness is the right gap to have.

    edit: are taking the measurement with the marker gassed up?

  8. #8
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    Nov 2013
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    yea I might 1mm and yes gassed up

  9. #9
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    Nov 2013
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    well I pulled out the rt on/off I put into it and the o-ring on top was bad and broke into pieces. I think im going to get a parts kit and just replace all the o-rings

  10. #10
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    That is always the best to do with any new to you mag. You will know that you are working with new orings at least. Once you have new orings, tune your level 10 from scratch. I'll bet the whole thing works much better than it did when you started playing with it.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  11. #11
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    Nov 2013
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    yea, ill bug you some more once I get a parts kit if im still having issues. I shouldn't though, ive never had trouble like this getting a valve tuned. one more question for now, what oring is it that goes in the carrier? and is there any other O-rings I should order or will the parts kit have everything I will need?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    X-valve parts kit should have some lvl-10 o-rings with it if I remember correctly.

  13. #13
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    Im wondering why the balls are not getting fully chambered ?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flatliner333 View Post
    Im wondering why the balls are not getting fully chambered ?
    I'm betting that the bolt was coming forward too soon due to the full auto effect of the missing on-off oring. It probably wasn't giving the ball time to drop into the breach.

  15. #15
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    Nov 2013
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    have been using my revvy, I cant find the battery compartment for my halo

  16. #16
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    Nov 2013
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    also I only had 1 oring ontop of my rt on/off in my retro valve was that wrong or is that just different with x valve using 2 orings ontop of the rt on/off?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
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    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    The older rt/emag valves only used one oring. They had a milled indentation that the small top oring fit into. Later designs milled the on-off area flat and used a larger outer oring to hold the smaller top oring similar to the classic AIR valve on-off area.

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