Results 1 to 17 of 17

Thread: im having serious problems getting my mag shooting right

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan
    Posts
    246

    im having serious problems getting my mag shooting right

    I have been trying to adjust my level 10 and I keep making things worse the bolt was sticking on balls not fully chambered, now I have a blender and my bolt wont stop on anything. I pulled out the ult that was in my x-valve and replaced it with a rt on/off. its rting like crazy, even when I have my tank input set down to 700 psi. my setup is helios body, rtp rail, rpg intelli, x-valve, lvl 10 with red spring on it. I had the lvl 10 with gold spring, 4 lvlx shims, and ult on/off in it and it was shooting good except the bolt would stick on balls not fully chambered. I don't know whats going on here but its starting to drive me crazy!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    9,305
    Need more info..

    Twist lock body? or? What size on/off pin? What other parts?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan
    Posts
    246
    Helios body, rtp rail, xvalve, rpg intelli w splinter blade, apocalypse reg, ive got the lvlx set up with red spring 0 carrier, no shims, the rt on/off is stock.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    129
    I don't know too much about much... but the 0 carrier sounds really tight. Possibly too tight to vent properly on a misfed ball?
    All I got for now.
    Thanks,
    Jason

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    220
    If you are getting an RT effect with low input pressure, you might want to check the sear. Sounds like you are having several issues. This might be part of it.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan
    Posts
    246
    P Its a brand new sear, whats the messurement im looking for? Ive got a 1cm gap between it and the trigger

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    940
    Quote Originally Posted by magman313 View Post
    P Its a brand new sear, whats the messurement im looking for? Ive got a 1cm gap between it and the trigger
    You mean 1 mm gap? if it's 1 cm it's way too much. About credit card thickness is the right gap to have.

    edit: are taking the measurement with the marker gassed up?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan
    Posts
    246
    yea I might 1mm and yes gassed up

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan
    Posts
    246
    well I pulled out the rt on/off I put into it and the o-ring on top was bad and broke into pieces. I think im going to get a parts kit and just replace all the o-rings

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    That is always the best to do with any new to you mag. You will know that you are working with new orings at least. Once you have new orings, tune your level 10 from scratch. I'll bet the whole thing works much better than it did when you started playing with it.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan
    Posts
    246
    yea, ill bug you some more once I get a parts kit if im still having issues. I shouldn't though, ive never had trouble like this getting a valve tuned. one more question for now, what oring is it that goes in the carrier? and is there any other O-rings I should order or will the parts kit have everything I will need?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    940
    X-valve parts kit should have some lvl-10 o-rings with it if I remember correctly.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Beaumont,Tx.
    Posts
    1,280
    MOTY3
    Im wondering why the balls are not getting fully chambered ?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    Quote Originally Posted by Flatliner333 View Post
    Im wondering why the balls are not getting fully chambered ?
    I'm betting that the bolt was coming forward too soon due to the full auto effect of the missing on-off oring. It probably wasn't giving the ball time to drop into the breach.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan
    Posts
    246
    have been using my revvy, I cant find the battery compartment for my halo

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    detroit, Michigan
    Posts
    246
    also I only had 1 oring ontop of my rt on/off in my retro valve was that wrong or is that just different with x valve using 2 orings ontop of the rt on/off?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    The older rt/emag valves only used one oring. They had a milled indentation that the small top oring fit into. Later designs milled the on-off area flat and used a larger outer oring to hold the smaller top oring similar to the classic AIR valve on-off area.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •