Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 31

Thread: Old School MiniMag Bolt Stuck in Barrel

  1. #1

    Old School MiniMag Bolt Stuck in Barrel

    Greetings.

    please excuse me for being a 1 time signup and poster

    I've been out of paintball for 2 years since my daughter was Born.

    my Brother gave me his busted up oldschool Minimag a year or so ago, and i'm just gassin' her up now.


    These are the issues.

    1) when first gassed up, air came out the back vent.= i stripped and oiled all o-rings. no longer leaks
    -there is a big spring that looks a tad rusted

    2) Now when gassing up trigger charges fine into place, but when i fire the bolt doesn't cycle back, it stays in the barrel.
    - i can push the barrel back into place with a squeegee, when doing so i hear a click, almost like a sear.

    little help would be great.

    NOTE: this is a Stock mechanical minimag, nothing fancy

    im guessing im going to need a rebuild kit either way by the end of this.

    thanks yall

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    216
    So when you gas it up now, it fires once and the bolt does not reset?

    How hard do you have to push on the bolt to get it to reset?

    Sounds like a weak bolt spring perhaps.

    I would recommend having a parts kit handy regardless. If it is the bolt spring, the kit comes with one.

  3. #3
    might benefit from a good cleaning, check the inside of the body for goop and also the bolt and put a little oil on the tube the bolt sets on and levi is probably right about the bolt spring.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    So when you gas it up now, it fires once and the bolt does not reset?

    How hard do you have to push on the bolt to get it to reset?
    That's Right Bang, no cycle

    Now to push the bolt back, it's hard to say how much cause i'm being rather gentle with the pressure. I'm used to working on Cockers ( HIIIIIISSSSSSSSSS ) and one push too hard can mess those puppies up good.

    If it helps any, when the bolt is stuck in the barrel i can't take the barrel off. i can twist lock out, and spin the barrel, but it wont come out. I can old hear the spring making noise as i spin as well ( i'm sure that irrelevant but hey ever little clue helps )

  5. #5
    check your barrel for wear

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    216
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerb View Post
    That's Right Bang, no cycle

    Now to push the bolt back, it's hard to say how much cause i'm being rather gentle with the pressure. I'm used to working on Cockers ( HIIIIIISSSSSSSSSS ) and one push too hard can mess those puppies up good.

    If it helps any, when the bolt is stuck in the barrel i can't take the barrel off. i can twist lock out, and spin the barrel, but it wont come out. I can old hear the spring making noise as i spin as well ( i'm sure that irrelevant but hey ever little clue helps )
    Like Vintage said, a good cleaning if you haven't done so already. I could see it doing this if there was a bunch of paint and gunk built up around the sear.

    The barrel thing is kinda interesting...
    Degas the marker and remove the bolt and barrel. Without any bolt spring in place, make sure the bolt slides into the barrel freely by hand. Could be a ding or other sort of damage to the barrel that's dragging on the bolt.

  7. #7
    check your barrel for wear
    Like Vintage said, a good cleaning if you haven't done so already. I could see it doing this if there was a bunch of paint and gunk built up around the sear.

    The barrel thing is kinda interesting...
    Degas the marker and remove the bolt and barrel. Without any bolt spring in place, make sure the bolt slides into the barrel freely by hand. Could be a ding or other sort of damage to the barrel that's dragging on the bolt.
    Will do tomorrow and will update

    thanks a Mil for your help so far

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    515
    How far does your bolt spring protrude beyond the bolt face?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Laku View Post
    How far does your bolt spring protrude beyond the bolt face?
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    check your barrel for wear
    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    Like Vintage said, a good cleaning if you haven't done so already. I could see it doing this if there was a bunch of paint and gunk built up around the sear.

    The barrel thing is kinda interesting...
    Degas the marker and remove the bolt and barrel. Without any bolt spring in place, make sure the bolt slides into the barrel freely by hand. Could be a ding or other sort of damage to the barrel that's dragging on the bolt.
    I've taken some Photos so you can all see what im working with.

    Barrel has a little wear only on that side pictured


    picture shows how far spring protudes past bolt face, along with rust


    not sure if relevant but this is what this part looks like what ever it may be

  10. #10
    replace that spring and from the color of your O-rings I would go thru the whole valve. get a scotch brite pad and clean all the spots off of the bolt and the end of the valve and it looks like the end of the barrel could use cleaning and probably the inside of the body. put a little oil on the outside of the bolt as well as inside when you reassemble.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    replace that spring and from the color of your O-rings I would go thru the whole valve. get a scotch brite pad and clean all the spots off of the bolt and the end of the valve and it looks like the end of the barrel could use cleaning and probably the inside of the body. put a little oil on the outside of the bolt as well as inside when you reassemble.
    that picture i have of the valve, is that as much as i can take apart or is there more O-inside?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    216
    Yep... what Vintage said ^^

    Video walkthrough for teardown and rebuild:

    http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL236834DEAD3EE136


    *edit*
    There is more to the valve than what you have pictured... video should make everything clear

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    515
    The bolt spring definitely looks like it's in need of a replacement.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    1,874
    There is something like 20 Orings in a mag. All very easy to replace.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    1,874
    Um guys! Check the barrel pick out closely. On my phone that looks like a broken old V nubbin. Sometimes when them broke they would bend forward and make the bolt STICK when fired.

    Does that piece of wire in the side of the barrel push through the slot and out of the way freely by hand?

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    Um guys! Check the barrel pick out closely. On my phone that looks like a broken old V nubbin. Sometimes when them broke they would bend forward and make the bolt STICK when fired.

    Does that piece of wire in the side of the barrel push through the slot and out of the way freely by hand?
    Oh ****. ****in' Sherlock here.....sorry i got a little excited. i had not noticed that wire before. but ya that wire is wrapped around into the barrel

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    216
    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    Um guys! Check the barrel pick out closely. On my phone that looks like a broken old V nubbin. Sometimes when them broke they would bend forward and make the bolt STICK when fired.

    Does that piece of wire in the side of the barrel push through the slot and out of the way freely by hand?
    Good eye blackdeath!


    Jerb:
    I'd still recommend a good cleaning and parts kit anyway, just to ensure continued trouble free operation. Parts kit should include a couple of the new style detents too.

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    Good eye blackdeath!


    Jerb:
    I'd still recommend a good cleaning and parts kit anyway, just to ensure continued trouble free operation. Parts kit should include a couple of the new style detents too.


    will do. now where that wire was bent over there is a little flair of metal, the bolt does slide through now, but i think i can feel bolt scraping a little on it. is shaving that down a little safe? or should a scrap the barrel?

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    1,874
    Quote Originally Posted by Levi View Post
    Good eye blackdeath!


    Jerb:
    I'd still recommend a good cleaning and parts kit anyway, just to ensure continued trouble free operation. Parts kit should include a couple of the new style detents too.
    Yup I'm all for a new parts kit too. Them Orings Re who knows how old. They may work right now. But will most likely break doen quick.

    And it was more a deal of I've delt with that a few times back in the day with the old v nubbins. I'm still not sure if I like the plastic or P nubbins better. But since plastic is all that is out there. That's what I've got.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    1,874
    Sand it down a little. No big deal. Just make sure its smooth when your done. Or leave it and let the bolt buff it if it isn't breaking paintballs. The barrel is nowhere near as hard as the bolt if its a basic AL barrel.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    216
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerb View Post
    will do. now where that wire was bent over there is a little flair of metal, the bolt does slide through now, but i think i can feel bolt scraping a little on it. is shaving that down a little safe? or should a scrap the barrel?
    There isn't any safety issue in sanding/filing down a burr here. A small fine tooth round file or some fairly fine sandpaper wrapped around a dowel/pencil/something else is probably your best bet. If you absolutely butcher it, the worst you'll do is ruin the barrel. With a little care, I'm sure you won't have any problem.

  22. #22
    thanks A lot everyone. i've been playing since 96' and never dealt with mags. i feel like a noob again calling field owners asking why my Bass Eagle Poison is leaking air down the barrel.

    i'll update with pics and maybe vid when everything is up and running

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    216
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerb View Post
    thanks A lot everyone. i've been playing since 96' and never dealt with mags. i feel like a noob again calling field owners asking why my Bass Eagle Poison is leaking air down the barrel.

    i'll update with pics and maybe vid when everything is up and running
    BTW... welcome to AO

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    1,874
    Quote Originally Posted by Jerb View Post
    thanks A lot everyone. i've been playing since 96' and never dealt with mags. i feel like a noob again calling field owners asking why my Bass Eagle STINGRAY is leaking air down the barrel.

    i'll update with pics and maybe vid when everything is up and running
    There. I fixed your post ;-P. haha. Seriously though. If you could deal with an autococker your golden with a mag. I love cockers but to lazy to mess with one when the time arises. Mags literally only have a handful of things that can even go wrong. Welcome to the forums.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    South Jersey
    Posts
    129
    By handful, he means like... 3 things total.

    Thanks,
    Jason

  26. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    1,238
    That wire barrel nubbin has been put in upside down. thats why the metel piece is going down the barrel. the "v" bump out should be inside the barrel, not outside. Flip that wire nubbin and change the bolt spring. should be good to go after that!

  27. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,408
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    put a little oil on the outside of the bolt as well as inside when you reassemble.
    Do not ever put any oil on the bolt spring or bolt. The oil will transfer to the inside of the barrel and to the sides of the balls. It will cause the balls to spin when fired and the gun will become very inaccurate. Keep the bolt and spring clean.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    1,874
    Quote Originally Posted by skipdogg View Post
    That wire barrel nubbin has been put in upside down. thats why the metel piece is going down the barrel. the "v" bump out should be inside the barrel, not outside. Flip that wire nubbin and change the bolt spring. should be good to go after that!

    Skip. The nubbin was put in correctly. It had broke and folded around the inside of the barrel. Somewhat common back in the day when they broke. I'd imagine that was part of the reason for the P nubbins introduction. But I can totally see your thought process on that. Especially if the broken V nubbin wasn't something you redilly messed with.

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2000
    Location
    Milwaukee WI
    Posts
    1,238
    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    Skip. The nubbin was put in correctly. It had broke and folded around the inside of the barrel. Somewhat common back in the day when they broke. I'd imagine that was part of the reason for the P nubbins introduction. But I can totally see your thought process on that. Especially if the broken V nubbin wasn't something you redilly messed with.
    A wire barrel nubbin should never be on the inside going down the barrel like that. At a minimum its messed up and needs to be replaced. But i still say it looks like the "v" part is on the outside of the barrel....

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    1,874
    Quote Originally Posted by skipdogg View Post
    A wire barrel nubbin should never be on the inside going down the barrel like that. At a minimum its messed up and needs to be replaced. But i still say it looks like the "v" part is on the outside of the barrel....
    It is messed up. The V breaks and the bolt folds the remainder around the barrel to the front. Then when the marker fires the bolt gets stuck on the little tab that is folded forward. Hence the bolt having to be pushed back by hand. All I ever did when this would happen was remove the broken nubbin and replace. Wasn't that big of a deal. Just an annoyance if in the middle of a game. I do see where your mindset is with this issue. I was one that played with a mag and dealt with them back in the day. It wasn't a big deal. Just now no one even thinks about that as ever being a potential firing problem.

    OP also commented that that was the issue after it was pointed out.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •