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Thread: RT Classic revive

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    US - North West
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    22

    RT Classic revive

    Trying to get an RT classic 10xx series serial number back to life,
    Saved it from the bottom of a parts box.
    I replaced all the seals as it was leaking like a sieve, now when it's gassed up bolt locks in to the sear like normal, but when I pull the trigger it will burp (bolt cycles several times) or the bolt will jump forward a half inch and hang bleeding air. If I hold the trigger down air continues to flow past the on/off and down the powertube past the bolt.
    I also measured the on/off pin at .760 (thought it was supposed to be .750) but I don't remember how that affects how the on/off operates.

    UPDATE: Just swapped from an almost empty bottle to a full one, and elongated the sear arm by a half turn, and now the when the trigger is pressed the bolt will only burp as it did before and very quickly, still leaks when the trigger is released.
    Any ideas?

    Thanks
    Last edited by Space_weazel_65; 02-28-2014 at 12:32 PM.
    !Weazel! :P

  2. #2
    might be trash on an o ring.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    McHenry, IL
    Posts
    535
    This was happening with the one I bought a few months ago. When I took the reg off of the valve, I found an extra oring hanging out in there. Works fine now.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    US - North West
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    I have checked all the o-rings and repacked the reg before I started so no extra rings there
    The on/off is just not shutting off, but I have a longer than standard on/off pin which should close the on/off sooner?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Check the regulator valve pin oring. If that oring leaks, it can feed through the regulator pin assembly and keep a flow of air going to the chamber even if the on-off is closed.

    The RT had a whole assortment of on-off pin length configurations available. The 0.760" pin length should work fine.

    The trigger should be about a credit card thickness in front of the trigger rod when the trigger is held against the safety with the valve aired up and ready to fire. If the trigger is making contact with the trigger rod, it is too long and will cause short stroking and recharge issues.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    US - North West
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    Trigger is in spec, I did replace the orings on the reg pin, though perhaps they are a little off, ordering a new reg pin assembly shouldn't cost much.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space_weazel_65 View Post
    Trigger is in spec, I did replace the orings on the reg pin, though perhaps they are a little off, ordering a new reg pin assembly shouldn't cost much.
    Its not the orings on the regulator pin assembly. A leak in those will cause venting out the side hole in the valve. The one that will leak into the front chamber is the one that the pin goes through into the back section of the valve.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    US - North West
    Posts
    22
    Sorry for the revive, had a work trip, a long ass one.
    The oring at the back that the reg pin goes through was also replaced, and the pin fits snugly and smoothly in to it.
    I am still at a loss.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,391
    Things that need to be checked/replaced:

    1) Replace bolt spring if it hasn't been done.
    2) Install a shorter powertube spacer to stop the leak out the front when the trigger is released.
    3) Check that there is only one oring embedded in the on-off top recess. The older retro/classic/emags only used one oring above the on-off not two that the classic AIR valve and newer X-valves use.
    4)Turn up the velocity

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