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Thread: OnOff/shear/ bolt stick issue?

  1. #1
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    OnOff/shear/ bolt stick issue?

    Does any one have an idea as to why I might have on/off stick? I'm not sure exactly what is going on to be honest.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nts...ature=youtu.be

  2. #2
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    Have you tried what happens if you change your lvl 10 carrier to one larger?

  3. #3
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    I have gone threw all my carriers. Even did a re build.. I think now it might be an issue with my new rail… the shear getting stuck on a sharp edge. going to test later to night with a different rail.

  4. #4
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    Broken o-ring in the on/off or some piece of trash in it is the only other explanation can think of. (I assume everything is properly oiled)

  5. #5
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    As far as I know everything is oiled right. I followed the Tk vid.

  6. #6
    Maybe a little more oil in the on/off?
    What type of on/off are you using
    More oil in on/off may help the SEAR reset

  7. #7
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    RT on/off

  8. #8
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    Slightly bent on/off pin perhaps?

  9. #9
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    Could the new O Rings need to be worked in?

  10. #10
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    is the field strip screw too tight / too loose? it could be an alignment issue causing the bolt to jam and reset. is it a detent issue? it might be sticking too far into the breech and causing the bolt to reset. try taking the detent out and see if it fires. if it does, i guess the simple fix is to add an o-ring on the outside so it doesn't screw so far into the body.

    i suppose it's easy enough to see if the sear is hanging up on something, just take everything off of see if it moves freely in the rail.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude View Post
    is the field strip screw too tight / too loose? it could be an alignment issue causing the bolt to jam and reset. is it a detent issue? it might be sticking too far into the breech and causing the bolt to reset. try taking the detent out and see if it fires. if it does, i guess the simple fix is to add an o-ring on the outside so it doesn't screw so far into the body.

    i suppose it's easy enough to see if the sear is hanging up on something, just take everything off of see if it moves freely in the rail.
    In the video looks like detent is out

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by river031403 View Post
    In the video looks like detent is out
    ah yeah ok...glossed over that the first time i watched.

  13. #13
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    I figured it out after doing another rebuild what was going on. The valve is fine, no bent shear pin etc........ it was a little over oiled but after about 50 shots it worked just fine. First I dumped the pneumatic setup and still had issues. Then I swapped out the rail for a normal mm rail. the gun RT'd like a champ. As it turns out the milling on this new rail I got lets the sear get hooked up on it. I gotta talk to Luke now still a sexy rail tho.
    Last edited by yellowmitten; 03-22-2014 at 09:19 PM.

  14. #14
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    huh...is the sear bent? or is the milling for the sear pin not aligned with the rail? it looks crooked in that picture.

    oh, it's sear not shear. shear is to cut. don't shear your sear! "he sheared his sear with sheer pressure!" "indeed. his sear was surely shorn."

  15. #15
    Yeah sear looks like it would get hooked up on that edge great find you probably could file that rail area down and call it good

  16. #16
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    The sear is fine.. I change the rail to a normal MM rail and the gun shoots like a dream. I think if I filed the rail down it would just cause more problems as there is not much metal there and the sear would be flopping around in the rail more.

  17. #17
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    is there any reason why I can't add washers to the sear pin to keep the seat from moving around?

  18. #18
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    seat...you mean sear? keep the sear from moving around? it needs some slack to move freely. the space between the sear and rail where the pin is is actually very small, it's just exaggerated the further away from the pin you move. i think if you added washers, it would only bind. if you want a more precise sear setup, i think you'ld have to get an rt pro rail and rt sear.

    i just put a lvl 10 carrier washer onto the sear pin (the side that's on top in the above picture), and it did take a lot of the slop out, but the sear was rubbing on the rail a *little* bit (the lower part of the rail that sticks out in the above pic). anyway the lvl 10 washers wouldn't work, as they can't fit flush between the body and frame. i'm not sure where you would find a smaller thin washer like that?

  19. #19
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    Well.. ULT shim is half of lvl-10 shim thickness. So if you have those you could try.

  20. #20
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    Still having issues! So not happy right now!

  21. #21
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    where did you get tha rail??? who milled it?

  22. #22
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    The aluminum sear supports are missing on the rail. There are a couple at the front but that is it. The ones at the back of the sear that hold the back of the sear in place so that it lines up with the body/on-off hole are missing. You need to add some guides on the rail on each side of the sear. JB weld will work for this.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by need4reebs View Post
    where did you get tha rail??? who milled it?
    Luke milled it. I'll is fixed just have ti send it back to him for a fix.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    The aluminum sear supports are missing on the rail. There are a couple at the front but that is it. The ones at the back of the sear that hold the back of the sear in place so that it lines up with the body/on-off hole are missing. You need to add some guides on the rail on each side of the sear. JB weld will work for this.
    It's there, thats the one that gets the sear hooked on

  25. #25
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    The back support that I am talking about is about half way between the sear pin and the back of the sear on the right side of the sear. In your picture, upon closer inspection it looks like if might be there, although it looks like the rail is milled quite deep. Could the back of the sear be coming above the support and getting caught on it such that the sear cannot reset. The back of the sear certainly looks like it is too far to the right.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    The back support that I am talking about is about half way between the sear pin and the back of the sear on the right side of the sear. In your picture, upon closer inspection it looks like if might be there, although it looks like the rail is milled quite deep. Could the back of the sear be coming above the support and getting caught on it such that the sear cannot reset. The back of the sear certainly looks like it is too far to the right.
    Yup. exactly. I don't think even to file it down will make a difference, it will jut make it worse.

  27. #27
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    Yes, filing it down will make it worse. It needs to be there and it needs to be able to guide the side of the sear in all positions to hold the sear centered in the rail.

  28. #28
    Sometimes when I'm having difficult problems, changing out the rail will fix the issue.

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