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Thread: rt classic dilema

  1. #1

    rt classic dilema

    bought it used off of ebay, 4000 series serial number, not a scratch on it other than on the barrel. put my asa and hose on it tonight, aired it up and it ran for a few shots then I got a low pressure type sound(hard to explain) waited a second it ran some more then did it again and then the trigger just flat wouldn't pull. degased the marker, gassed it back up and it repeated the process again. if the gauge on the side of the asa is correct it has 1100 + psi from the bottle. I noticed when aired up the sear rod touches the back of the trigger, could this be the problem? I don't think I was short stroking it.

  2. #2
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    I'm sure Athomas will pop in with a very detailed reply.

    But for now. Yes an out of adjustment trigger rod can cause issues. Also. How old are the Orings in the valve. When I pulled my classic RT out of its 10 year hybernation it worked. But had hit and miss hiccups. All the Orings had dried out and basically turned to plastic. A new set of Orings did the trick. An odd thing was that the bolt bumper had got real sticky and was almost like gum.

  3. #3
    I don't remember if I even checked the o rings since it aired up without leaking. I'll have to take it apart tomorrow and look. might even need a new bolt spring. funny thing is the first couple of times I aired it up with the different asa I had no problems.

  4. #4
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    Well my rt worked remotely fine the first time. (After I broke the bolt / bumper / valve apart). But it quickly started going down hill. All of my Orings were a yellowish brown. The 2 Orings and the plastic clip that go on the main reg pin were actually somewhere between orange and red. And hard as a rock. I know for a fact they were as old as the gun (97 I think). They actually exploded the night before the white river scenario I played. Pretty sure I took a picture of them........... found it. Hard to see the actually freying. But they splintered off almost like when you break a piece of fiberglass. And yet these actually shot 3 cases of paint last year before the gave out.
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    Last edited by blackdeath1k; 03-27-2014 at 10:35 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    bought it used off of ebay, 4000 series serial number, not a scratch on it other than on the barrel. put my asa and hose on it tonight, aired it up and it ran for a few shots then I got a low pressure type sound(hard to explain) waited a second it ran some more then did it again and then the trigger just flat wouldn't pull. degased the marker, gassed it back up and it repeated the process again. if the gauge on the side of the asa is correct it has 1100 + psi from the bottle. I noticed when aired up the sear rod touches the back of the trigger, could this be the problem? I don't think I was short stroking it.
    Whenever you buy a new mag, the first thing you should do is replace all of the orings. That way you know the proper ones are installed and in good condtion. If you use good quality synthetic light oil, they will last for many many years without any issues.

    If the trigger rod is touching the back of the trigger it needs to be adjusted. It should be about a credit card thickness from the back of the trigger when the trigger is held against the safety with the gun aired up.

    The sound you are hearing is probably the burping sound caused by a weak bolt spring. Replace the bolt spring and the problem will probably go away.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  6. #6
    went thru the valve, all the o-rings looked ok except for the power tube tip(which is the biggest pain in the rear to change in my opinion), so i went ahead and replaced all the o-rings and adjusted the trigger rod lenght while i had it apart and it ran fine. the only problems i had was 6 month old paint blowing up.

    on a different nuisance is there certain barrels the classics wont take? i had an old armson that would not go back far enough, another armson and a hammerhead that did not have enough rotation for the hole to line up. the 2 armsons are the ones with the name painted on the side of the barrel. a newer 1st gen armson stealth lined up fine as do all my j&j as well as both my armson ssrs.

  7. #7
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    You don't have to worry about the powertube tip oring. It is only there to keep the tip from vibrating off. It doesn't actually seal anything.

    Paint blowing up is usually a barrel issue where it is too tight for the size of the paint. The paint often looks like a good match, but old paint can have deformations if it is not stored properly, and the seams can get really brittle and weak. If the barrel isn't really loose on the paint, it can and will explode the seams as the bolt jams it into the barrel. On the plus side, if you store paint properly, it gets really brittle but maintains its shape. If you shoot it using a nice large bore barrel, it will shoot realy straight and break on the slightest impact that normally would cause a bounce or deflection.

    If the body is a left or right powerfeed configuration, every mag barrel should fit. The only ones you might have issues with would be center feed bodies. Not all barrels were available in a center feed configuration.

  8. #8
    as for the barrel issue i tried the same barrels in a different rt classic and they went right in, i think the problem is the twistlock pin in my black one is a little taller or stiffer than my blue smear as i still have problems rotating a couple of the barrels over far enough. hopefully it will break in with use.

  9. #9
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    My ss freak back is horrid to turn in my classic rt. Works great in my wifes minimag rt. The TL pin in my classicRT has years of gunk in it and doesn't push in very well at all. I need to really clean that pin. But one of the ss bolts holding my sight rail on is stripped. And I've not went to the trouble to drill it out yet so I can dismantle and clean the TL pin.

  10. #10
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    it could indeed be a stiff twistlock pin, or a twistlock pin that wasn't pressed in far enough or a frame screw that's too long.

    cleaning a twistlock pin assembly is simple. get a 3/32 allen wrench (the same size you use to take the grip screws out), and remove the grub screw in the bottom of the assembly, followed by the pin spring and pin. clean them all up, then clean inside the twistlock barrel. you can use a q-tip to do this, pull off a bit of the cotton and it will fit. squirt some alcohol on it and just swab it out. my pin was a little rough, so i polished it up with my dremel using a felt wheel and some polishing compound. put some grease on the twistlock pin, and put it all back together. you can adjust how hard the pin is to depress by how far in you tighten the grub screw.

    the twistlock assembly should be pressed all the way into the rail; there should be no gap between the bottom of the assembly and the top of the rail.

    finally, a frame screw that's too long can protrude into the body which could prevent the barrel from being able to be turned. you would see this issue if your frame screw doesn't have a washer, or you're using an aftermarket frame (benchmark, in my case), or if you not using the regular frame screw. depending on the body, you could reach inside and feel if this was the case.

    if your barrels cannot be fully inserted, i would take a look at the barrel o-rings. are they swollen, are there too many (there should only be one o-ring per groove)? i had a couple of barrels where the previous owner doubled up on o-rings making it hard to insert the barrel into the body. another thing that might help is to thoroughly clean the inside of your body with soap and warm water. any accumulated gunk could make it more difficult to insert your barrel. if it's clean, and your barrel o-rings are in good shape, a dab of synthetic oil on the o-rings should do the trick. another thing could be the channels in the barrel that the pin guides through. i had to take a dremel with a small grinding stone and kind of bevel the start of the channels to make it easier for the pin to enter. it was as if the channels weren't milled deep enough (these were dye barrels btw). so i just made a ramp at the start so the pin had an easier time getting into the groove. if you don't have a dremel, a small round file would work just as well.

    hope that helps.
    Last edited by Cyco-Dude; 03-31-2014 at 01:03 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude View Post
    it could indeed be a stiff twistlock pin, or a twistlock pin that was pressed in far enough or a frame screw that's too long.
    There is another possibility of a similar nature. The twistlock pins have a set screw on the bottom. These can crowd the spring and pin and keep it from going down far enough for some barrel-pin-slots. Back that screw out about a turn and see if it helps.

    Also, check the body for build-up in the corners in the back where the end of the barrel has to fit. Some used mags can be nasty there with old paint and dirt, making the barrel fit tight.

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