Couple of questions
First - is there anywhere I can buy a good o-ring kit for my Max Flo 4500 High Pressure regulator (I think it is the 2nd gen, it's the one that drops down via dovetail)? It works great except it leaks through. It's not that big of a problem during play. But the leak is going through the regulator/valve and is being held by my Minimag Valve.
Second are on/off ASA's different as far as the depth the pin pushes the ball on my Ninja reg? Reason I ask is I just bought an ASA on off on ebay. Everything seems to be working ok except that I have to almost completely unscrew the on/off cap then mount the ninja regulator and it still allows air to pass into the gun. Hence no on off just screw in tank and go. Plus it is leaking through the cap.
It's hard to explain crap in words. heeheehee
i don't think there are parts kits, but should be able to get the o-rings you need from airgun designs or tunamart.
which on/off asa do you have? also, you don't have to screw your tank all the way onto the asa (in fact, i don't think i ever do). once it's pressurized the tank will be solid and won't move. leaking through the cap...is that the part you twist? or do you mean one of the plugs in the side of the asa? if it's the part you twist (knob), you'll need to service your asa. that could mean just cleaning it, but most likely the o-rings inside are done and need to be replaced.
Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude
The reg he is talking about isn't of the screw in type.
Edit: I don't believe so anyway. Sounds like he is asking about two different tanks.
Try disassembling the max flow and cleaning all the seals and sealing surfaces. I had one these regs a few years ago and had the same problem. Also, if I'm remembering correctly, you want to reassemble dry. Do not use any oil.
Originally Posted by PsychoJester
Ok I will take the max flo apart and clean everything. Oil might be the problem. I downloaded the PDF on rebuilding it, and it said not to use oil on certain things. Which I followed the directions, but maybe some of the oil got into where it shouldn't have. I also bought one of those o-ring kits off of Ebay, and most of them were not even close to being the right size (mostly the thickness was way off). Just ordered a few things from Tunamart last night, I'll call them today before they ship.
As for the ASA it is an on/off type, and I'm screwing in a Ninja SHP reg (factory @ 1100). I back the on/off knob all of the way out, and then screw bottle in, then screw knob back in until I hear it pressurize. But I can hear a faint hiss at the knob. Here's a picture of it
Last edited by PsychoJester; 04-10-2014 at 09:12 AM.
well, i'd try to take the knob off. there might be a set-screw holding it on. once that's off, you'll have to take the internals out. they might slide out in the direction of the knob, or they might slide out in the direction of the tank threads. once that internal pin is out, you'll have to change the o-rings that seal the pin to the asa. you can buy o-rings for cheap on mcarterbrown from this gentleman here.
to find out find o-rings you need, you'll have to measure the channel the o-rings sit in and use a chart for find the correct number. here is a chart. look on the right columns "nominal ID" (this is the inner diameter of the o-ring, and should match the outer diameter of the asa pin channel that the o-ring sits in) and "nominal OD" (this is the o-rings outer diameter, and should match the inner diameter of the hole the asa pin slides into).
so for example, i recently rebuilt my evil on/off asa. the pin that the knob pushes simple slides out of the front. once out, i took the two gooey o-rings off of the shaft, and measured the o-ring channels with a pair of calipers. the OD was 1/8", so that means i needed o-rings with an ID of 1/8". looking at the chart, i found the o-rings with a nominal ID of 1/8", which were size 006. so that's what i ordered from short (the mcb o-ring guy), in 70 durometer, and now my evil asa works as it should.
speaking of o-rings, tank o-rings are size 015 (get 90 durometer urethane if possible), and the o-rings in macroline and quick-disconnect fittings are 010 (70 durometer buna). so if you ever have a leaky macroline fittings, just pop the collet off and change the o-ring. lot cheaper than getting a new fitting!
Well I figured out the ASA problem. I pulled the knob out and cut some of the threads off. Now I can screw the tank all of the way into the ASA on/off until it seats, then screw the on/off knob down to engage air and no leaks. Basically the knob screw was way to long.