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Thread: EMAG won't fire in Electronic Mode

  1. #1
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    EMAG won't fire in Electronic Mode

    Marker: PTP Micro Emag 2000 Stock. Software 1.37. Battery purchased in 2009. I just recently swapped out the trigger as well as replacing selector switch. I didn't have any issues before the trigger swap. I just let the battery charge overnight and started tinkering again with it today. I'm not sure of the battery's current output but I would charge it every couple of months. I'm not getting low battery indicator.

    Issue: Marker will fire in mech mode as well as in hybrid mode. When I select E mode the marker will not fire nor will the trigger move as if there was a safety on, which it is obviously not. The sear moves freely when valve is not in marker. I removed the selector switch again to see if I had put it back incorrectly but no luck. I haven't messed with trigger magnet yet, I did however put an allen wrench behind trigger and it still would not work. Is there a way to tell if either top magnet or trigger magnet is in backwards?

    When in hybrid mode I did try to mess with settings, 1 3 6 round burst and those would reset after pulling the trigger, that might be normal for hybrid though. I haven't messed with the solenoid, I'm afraid I might do more damage than good. The readout on the board is clear, not scrambled like the magnet was too close, I had that issue when I originally installed the Tunablade which is what I just removed. Suggestions? I would like to get this up and running to get it sold. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Since your trigger is not moving freely in e-mode, you might need to back out the "trigger travel" screw (I don't know what it is called). The little black set screw that is inside the frame going through the selector switch vertically. Back that guy out, see what happens.. Just a thought.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneSelfLost View Post
    Since your trigger is not moving freely in e-mode, you might need to back out the "trigger travel" screw (I don't know what it is called). The little black set screw that is inside the frame going through the selector switch vertically. Back that guy out, see what happens.. Just a thought.
    +1 for this.
    My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneSelfLost View Post
    Since your trigger is not moving freely in e-mode, you might need to back out the "trigger travel" screw (I don't know what it is called). The little black set screw that is inside the frame going through the selector switch vertically. Back that guy out, see what happens.. Just a thought.
    Is that the one with the ball bearing similar to a safety? I did mess with that as well when reinstalling the trigger/ selector. I'll check that out. Thank you.

  5. #5
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    I don't think so, no. It's a set screw that is right in the metal bar of the selector. This guy here. It is the black screw in the silver selector thing, right in the dead middle of the pic. Underneath the screw I think you're referring to.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by OneSelfLost View Post
    I don't think so, no. It's a set screw that is right in the metal bar of the selector. This guy here. It is the black screw in the silver selector thing, right in the dead middle of the pic. Underneath the screw I think you're referring to.
    Okay, I think I know what you mean. The one I was talking about screws into the actual frame and prevents the selector switch from coming out of the frame. Now that I think about it, I think I might have pushed the selector outside of the frame somewhat because I almost lost the ball bearing under the set screw I was talking about. I'm wondering if I tweaked something when I did this.

  7. #7
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    The trigger needs to move for it to work. If it won't move, then the top lever on the back of the trigger is probably hard against the adjustment screw in the selector switch. Back that adjustment screw out and set it so you get the proper trigger movement. Then adjust your trigger magnet.

    You can still test the electronic operation by switching to manual mode with the electronics turned on. Pull the trigger until it almost contacts the trigger rod. If it fires in that range, then the trigger is activating the HES. If not, you probably need to adjust the trigger magnet.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  8. #8
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    Alright, I messed around with this last night and I must confess some operator error on my part. It's been a while since I had used my Emag and I had the selector switch set to 3 o'clock which basically acts as a safety which as I was writing the first post thought seemed off. The marker works in all modes but . . . here's the thing that lead me to believe that Electronic mode was at 3 'o clock and not 6 (this and PTP Emags have no "M" or "E" labels on grip), I could not get the marker to fire in burst mode 3 round and 6 round burst while aired up, and it does have the jumper installed. When in Electronic mode is engaged with no air, I can hear the solenoid click for the 3 and 6 round burst. So, is this a battery issue? Or something else? If so what should be the output of the battery to make it work successfully if I take it to say Batteries Plus to get it checked/rebuilt?

  9. #9
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    A fresh, fully charged battery should measure about 19.6V based on 1.4V/cell of a fully charged NiMh cell. After sitting for a while and self discharging, the voltage of the pack will read about 18.2V.

    NiMh cells have a fully charged voltage value of about 1.4V but it drops to 1.3V very quickly so the 1.3V value is used for the upper value when determining average operating outputs. The minimum voltage is 1.0V, but the drop from 1.1V to 1.0V occurs very quickly so the 1.1V value is used for the lower voltage. The resulting average is 1.2V which is the industry value used for packaging. A 14 cell pack rated at 16.8v actually ranges from 18.2V to 15.4V.

  10. #10
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    Does my issue sound like a battery issue or something else?

  11. #11
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    It could be the battery, or it could be that the solenoid plunger is not set to the correct length. It should be 3.005" from the tip of the plunger to the tip of the clevis.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    It could be the battery, or it could be that the solenoid plunger is not set to the correct length. It should be 3.005" from the tip of the plunger to the tip of the clevis.
    Anything I need to know about removing it to measure? Do I just remove the C-clip and it just slides out? And just to confirm by tip you mean the very end of the plunger where it comes to a point like a pencil and clevis being the hinge on the sear?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by audioSLAVE View Post
    Anything I need to know about removing it to measure? Do I just remove the C-clip and it just slides out?
    The C-clip doesn't actually hold it in the solenoid. The C-clip prevents the plunger from hitting or being pushed against the bottom of the solenoid too hard. I do think you need to remove the C-clip to get the plunger out through the grip frame though, if I recall from when I had to take mine out.

    Quote Originally Posted by audioSLAVE View Post
    And just to confirm by tip you mean the very end of the plunger where it comes to a point like a pencil and clevis being the hinge on the sear?
    Yes, measure from the pointed tip to the farthest outer edge of the clevis where it attaches to the front arm of the sear.

  14. #14
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    Thanks athomas and everyone else.

  15. #15
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    It looks like it was the battery. They recycled and recharged it at Batteries Plus and when I got it home the marker worked with no issue. Battery tested at 60% capacity. Thanks for everyone's input.

  16. #16
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    If the battery tested at 60% capacity, then you should have a new battery pack built. They aren't that expensive and the new ones are generally 1000mAh instead of the 650mAh rating of the original.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    If the battery tested at 60% capacity, then you should have a new battery pack built. They aren't that expensive and the new ones are generally 1000mAh instead of the 650mAh rating of the original.
    Yeah, I know. Since I'm selling it I'd rather not put the money into it. They wanted $40 650mAh and $60 for 1000mAh rebuilt. If I end up keeping it I'll replace it. Thanks again.

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