EMAG won't fire in Electronic Mode

[audioSLAVE]

Marker: PTP Micro Emag 2000 Stock. Software 1.37. Battery purchased in 2009. I just recently swapped out the trigger as well as replacing selector switch. I didn't have any issues before the trigger swap. I just let the battery charge overnight and started tinkering again with it today. I'm not sure of the battery's current output but I would charge it every couple of months. I'm not getting low battery indicator.

Issue: Marker will fire in mech mode as well as in hybrid mode. When I select E mode the marker will not fire nor will the trigger move as if there was a safety on, which it is obviously not. The sear moves freely when valve is not in marker. I removed the selector switch again to see if I had put it back incorrectly but no luck. I haven't messed with trigger magnet yet, I did however put an allen wrench behind trigger and it still would not work. Is there a way to tell if either top magnet or trigger magnet is in backwards?

When in hybrid mode I did try to mess with settings, 1 3 6 round burst and those would reset after pulling the trigger, that might be normal for hybrid though. I haven't messed with the solenoid, I'm afraid I might do more damage than good. The readout on the board is clear, not scrambled like the magnet was too close, I had that issue when I originally installed the Tunablade which is what I just removed. Suggestions? I would like to get this up and running to get it sold. Thanks in advance.

[OneSelfLost]

Since your trigger is not moving freely in e-mode, you might need to back out the "trigger travel" screw (I don't know what it is called). The little black set screw that is inside the frame going through the selector switch vertically. Back that guy out, see what happens.. Just a thought.

[knownothingmags]

Since your trigger is not moving freely in e-mode, you might need to back out the "trigger travel" screw (I don't know what it is called). The little black set screw that is inside the frame going through the selector switch vertically. Back that guy out, see what happens.. Just a thought.

+1 for this.

[audioSLAVE]

Since your trigger is not moving freely in e-mode, you might need to back out the "trigger travel" screw (I don't know what it is called). The little black set screw that is inside the frame going through the selector switch vertically. Back that guy out, see what happens.. Just a thought.

Is that the one with the ball bearing similar to a safety? I did mess with that as well when reinstalling the trigger/ selector. I'll check that out. Thank you.

[OneSelfLost]

I don't think so, no. It's a set screw that is right in the metal bar of the selector. This guy here. It is the black screw in the silver selector thing, right in the dead middle of the pic. Underneath the screw I think you're referring to.

[audioSLAVE]

I don't think so, no. It's a set screw that is right in the metal bar of the selector. This guy here. It is the black screw in the silver selector thing, right in the dead middle of the pic. Underneath the screw I think you're referring to.

Okay, I think I know what you mean. The one I was talking about screws into the actual frame and prevents the selector switch from coming out of the frame. Now that I think about it, I think I might have pushed the selector outside of the frame somewhat because I almost lost the ball bearing under the set screw I was talking about. I'm wondering if I tweaked something when I did this.

[athomas]

The trigger needs to move for it to work. If it won't move, then the top lever on the back of the trigger is probably hard against the adjustment screw in the selector switch. Back that adjustment screw out and set it so you get the proper trigger movement. Then adjust your trigger magnet.

You can still test the electronic operation by switching to manual mode with the electronics turned on. Pull the trigger until it almost contacts the trigger rod. If it fires in that range, then the trigger is activating the HES. If not, you probably need to adjust the trigger magnet.