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Thread: Hyperframe Noob

  1. #1
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    Hyperframe Noob

    Ok, few months back I rolled the dice on a Hyperframed Mag on Ebay. Came in sat in a box because I didn't have any batteries and it got lost in the shuffle. Anyways, finally pulled it out today and was fiddling with it. Put a battery in and it lights up, says "F13 Semi" on the screen and switches to "Fire" everytime I pull the trigger, but the solenoid isn't doing anything? With it lighting up and saying "fire" I am guessing the board is ok, but possibly a fried noid? Tried airing it up, thought maybe the noid was extended or something, but nada. I know ZERO about these things. Who can help me tech it?

  2. #2
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    Not uncommon for it to be good but not 'click'. I have 1 hyperframe that clicks, and one that doesnt. Both work just fine when aired up. I would suspect your hyperframe is fine.
    If it still doesnt do anything when you air it up, you may have a on/off issue.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by skipdogg View Post
    Not uncommon for it to be good but not 'click'. I have 1 hyperframe that clicks, and one that doesnt. Both work just fine when aired up. I would suspect your hyperframe is fine.
    If it still doesnt do anything when you air it up, you may have a on/off issue.
    I put air to it and it doesn't do anything.

  4. #4
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    What type of on/off assembly is in the valve? And what type of valve are you using?

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    Quote Originally Posted by skipdogg View Post
    What type of on/off assembly is in the valve? And what type of valve are you using?
    Classic valve with standard on/off. Even if I take the valve out and put pressure on the sear so that it presses against the noid, nothing happens. I did kind of feel a little something at one point, but it was barely anything.

    * in before that's what she said.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Classic valve with standard on/off.
    Thats a loosing combination every time for a Hyperframe

    Need a hyperframe on/off assembly.

    Others have said a RT on/off with .740 pin will work too. I have never tried that.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by skipdogg View Post
    Thats a loosing combination every time for a Hyperframe

    Need a hyperframe on/off assembly.

    Others have said a RT on/off with .740 pin will work too. I have never tried that.
    I can swap out a different on/off, but it just seem like it's either tripping the noid consistently or something. I take the battery out and put it back in and it kinda trips it a little, but slowly almost dies.

    I tested the battery and its putting out 9+ volts. Could it be that the capacitor has been sitting uncharged for so long that it might need to charge for awhile before it will work? I know I had something similar happen on my VER frame. It sat with a dead battery in it for like a year. Took it out and replaced it and it took it a few minutes to start working again.

    There is something in the manual about there being a service mode and you can adjust how hard the noid strikes the sear, but I can't figure out how to get it into service mode. All I see in the manual is how to change rate of fire etc.

  8. #8
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    Battery could be a issue too. Are you using a fresh duracell or something? I have found a rechargable 9.6V with too high a Mah rating (230 or 270) will mess up the functioning for some reason.

    As for service mode....its hard to find for a reason. I feel it shouldnt be messed with in most circumstances. I feel your situation doesnt warrant you messing around with the settings. Others may disagree with that.

    My suggestion, try the other on/off, and try to use a energizer or duracell regular 9V fresh battery.

  9. #9
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    Pulled the battery right out of the pack. I was trying a different one, but its seemed to be fluctuating so I grabbed another. Tested it and it was at 9.4/9.5. Its just weird that is seems intermittent. Shouldn't the noid either work or not? If I pull it out of the frame it should still work right as long as its plugged in?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Shouldn't the noid either work or not? If I pull it out of the frame it should still work right as long as its plugged in?
    Yes, I would think so.
    Also, we are getting to about the end of my hyperframe knowledge. So from here on out I'll most likley not be too much help.

  11. #11
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    Hit Sk8ermog, I think he could help you.
    He built my hypermag, and it's working with a classic valve with a RT on/off.

    Regardind the battery, on my side, I use paintball batteries.

  12. #12
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    Make sure that after you pull the battery off, to discharge the capacitor. People used to have issues about frying boards with these when they would leave it charged and accidentally touch the wrong terminals to the connector.
    Sk8ermog should be able to help.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I can swap out a different on/off, but it just seem like it's either tripping the noid consistently or something. I take the battery out and put it back in and it kinda trips it a little, but slowly almost dies.

    I tested the battery and its putting out 9+ volts. Could it be that the capacitor has been sitting uncharged for so long that it might need to charge for awhile before it will work? I know I had something similar happen on my VER frame. It sat with a dead battery in it for like a year. Took it out and replaced it and it took it a few minutes to start working again.

    There is something in the manual about there being a service mode and you can adjust how hard the noid strikes the sear, but I can't figure out how to get it into service mode. All I see in the manual is how to change rate of fire etc.
    Don't have any hyper frame knowledge, but have electronics knowledge.. A cap should charge almost instantly. If it's not then look at it and see if the lines on the top (of the capacitor, sometimes looks like a peace sign, sometimes looks like a "K") are anything other then flush... if they are swolen or broken then the cap is bad.

    If you think the solenoid is intermittent then I would try to source one from solenoid city. They made the mq solenoids for e cockers back in the day and I would suspect that they would have something that may work in the 50 dollar range.
    Last edited by ascent; 07-15-2014 at 06:02 PM.

  14. #14
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    A hyperframe has a noid that works slightly different than what you might see on a spyder. The noid will only click once it has pressure on it. So if the gun isn't aired up, it won't click but it will say fire on the led. I just got a hyperframe a few months ago too and had a few issues with it at first as well. Sk8ermog is whom I bought my frame from and he is very knowledgeable. You will need at an RT on/off to get this to work properly or a hyperframe on/off (but in my case the hyperframe on/off gave me issues while the RT on/off worked fine). A classic on/off requires too much pressure and the noid will not be able to move it. Stoopid question but you did take a sear and remove the trigger arm? It still requires a sear to operate properly. (I know, stoopid question but had to ask). Is the safety installed? If yours is missing like mine, you can stick an allen wrench into the safety hole and place pressure against the noid. If you have a fresh battery, the noid should push back. If not, you may want to check that none of your wires got pinched when screwing the grips on. If you need pictures / video of my frame let me know and I'll post what you need.

    edit - if you have a volt meter check to make sure your battery isn't below 8.5 volts.

  15. #15
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    I initially tried it aired up and it was doing nothing. Tried taking the battery out and replacing it. When the battery was out I tried just using an allen wrench to push the back of the sear down to put pressure on the solenoid and it would trigger the noid intermittently. I have the left panel off when testing so no wires are being pinched. Yes it has a sear with the rod removed. As I mentioned above the battery is testing at 9.4/9.5.

    I'll try at RT on/off tomorrow. Maybe even try putting an X in with a ULT to see if that makes a difference.

  16. #16
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    If it's been sitting awhile see if there is corrosion inside the noid. I think I remember some one saying that could happen.

  17. #17
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    is the noid in the right position in the frame?
    I know that's a dumb question.
    My sydarm weighs less than yours!!!

  18. #18
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    I don't see a way to open the noid looks to be in correct position to me.

  19. #19
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    I know this guy who is like an effen hyperframe guru...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    I know this guy who is like an effen hyperframe guru...
    Sounds good. What do you see as the problem? Any specific steps to take to tech it? Any help you can offer would be appreciated. Not really looking to ship it out and have it fixed necessarily as my honest plans are to sell it. Wanting to make sure its working before I do.
    Last edited by OPBN; 07-16-2014 at 07:42 AM.

  21. #21
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    If you are sure that the trigger wires and all of the connections are good, Get it into service mode and increase the dwell, for starters.

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  23. #23
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    Found that, went in and downloaded. I don't see how to get into service mode. It mentioned doing it, but didn't see where it shows you how unless I am missing something? I would say that since it powers up and the screen changes when I pull the trigger that the wires for the switch and battery must be ok. Only leaves the wires for the noid in question. I don't have a continuity tester so no real way for me to test the wires on that, but looking at them, they don't look pinched and seem to be solidly into the connectors and also into the noid.

  24. #24
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    Ok. I googled it and found an old thread here that showed how to go into service mode. I raised the dwell to 9 which was the highest setting and doesn't do anything. I did find that if I move the noid around it seems to start and stop activating. I am starting to wonder if its not a bad noid, sticky noid, or maybe there is something loose inside of it that is causing it to work intermittently? Maybe a bad connection inside?

  25. #25
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    Remove the solenoid, and pull the plunger out. It might be corroded. It should move completely freely. If it doesnt, something is up. I have seen plenty that were gooed up and simply needed to be cleaned.

  26. #26
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    How does it come apart? I pulled it out and don't see anyway of getting it open.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    How does it come apart? I pulled it out and don't see anyway of getting it open.
    REALLY? is the plunger missing?

  28. #28
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    There are two pieces, best image I can find. Thin part is the flat end of the plunger. Little nub sticks out the other side when its closed.



  29. #29
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    Mine appears to be stuck open. Just got the plunger out. Is there supposed to be some sort of spring inside that pushes the plunger back?
    Last edited by OPBN; 07-16-2014 at 11:21 AM.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Mine appears to be stuck open. Just got the plunger out. Is there supposed to be some sort of spring inside that pushes the plunger back?
    no

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