Yeah sounds like the noid plunger is bent or corroded. The noid is similar to a cocker E1 noid but just a little smaller. The trigger frame needs to be milled a little to make the cocker noid work correctly. If the plunger is bent then it won't slide back and forth correctly. Pictures of the noid would really help.
There was some corrosion inside the noid so I put some penetrating oil on it and going to go back in a little to clean it up. I guess that's where it's different than a Spyder noid in that there isn't a spring to push it back?
Get some 0000 steel wool or emery cloth and clean up any corrosion you see. Penetrating oil will gum it up eventually.
Woot! Got it working... Nifty. Might actually think about keeping it.
So yeah, I'm an idiot. Apparently there is a reason for the four little set screws in the top of the frame. Though the noid was super gunked up it seems to be working like a champ now.
Thanks for the help and primer on Hyperframeology.
It's seems to be working decent with a standard RT on/off.
Glad to hear. Yeah those 4 set screws are very important to keep the noid in place so it doesn't work itself backwards. There are no springs to push the noid back. It's all based on the pressure of the on/off pushing the sear and noid back. A lot of people freak out thinking their hyperframe doesn't work cause it won't make a sound when they click the trigger. I do have a prototype hyperframe I got from Bunny that has a spring in it and a custom hyperframe board with a full auto 20bps but that is the only one I've seen with a spring to help the noid reset.
Yeah hyperframes are awesome and you should totally keep it. At least play one game with it some weekend so you can check it off your paintball bucket list.
Ok. I does seem to work fine, but of the 4 set screws only the set towards the back of the frame are really engaging. In order for the noid to be fully set back into the pocket so that it fits flush with the back side of the pocket the two front set screws if screwed in would actually hit off of the noid housing and interfere with the plunger. Is it supposed to be centered? It seems like if it was moved farther forward for the front two set screws to engage that it might not open up enough.
Noid should sit all the way towards the BACK of the frame with no problems.
Due to lighting I couldn't get a clear pic showing the set screws so I put an allen wrench showing where they would come down. Should I move the noid forward just enough to catch the set screws or leave it all the way back and just go with the two?
Last edited by OPBN; 07-17-2014 at 09:44 AM.
Yeah the noid should sit with all 4 screws holding it down but the front screws not touching the clapper part of the noid. You are luck the set screws can even move. They normally get stripped and stuck.
Your noid should still have enough room to move back and forth to hit the sear. Try putting the body, rail and frame together and use an Allen key to push the sear down as far as it will go. If it goes down past the body and the front comes up enough to snag and hold the bolt then you should be fine. Make sense?