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Thread: Hyperframe Noob

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    no
    What pushes the plunger back?

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    What pushes the plunger back?
    The leg of the sear.

  3. #33
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    Yeah sounds like the noid plunger is bent or corroded. The noid is similar to a cocker E1 noid but just a little smaller. The trigger frame needs to be milled a little to make the cocker noid work correctly. If the plunger is bent then it won't slide back and forth correctly. Pictures of the noid would really help.

  4. #34
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    There was some corrosion inside the noid so I put some penetrating oil on it and going to go back in a little to clean it up. I guess that's where it's different than a Spyder noid in that there isn't a spring to push it back?

  5. #35
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    Get some 0000 steel wool or emery cloth and clean up any corrosion you see. Penetrating oil will gum it up eventually.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    There was some corrosion inside the noid so I put some penetrating oil on it and going to go back in a little to clean it up. I guess that's where it's different than a Spyder noid in that there isn't a spring to push it back?

    Spyder noids are different. So are the APE Tippmann ones. The closest I found are the E2 noids. The APE ones work but you need to shorten up the plunger for it to work right.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Get some 0000 steel wool or emery cloth and clean up any corrosion you see. Penetrating oil will gum it up eventually.
    I was looking at something to break down the corrosion and then planned on cleaning it out with denatured alcohol. Thanks for the help, need to pull an RT on/off out of the pile somewhere and see if that helps.

  8. #38
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    Woot! Got it working... Nifty. Might actually think about keeping it.

    So yeah, I'm an idiot. Apparently there is a reason for the four little set screws in the top of the frame. Though the noid was super gunked up it seems to be working like a champ now.

    Thanks for the help and primer on Hyperframeology.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I was looking at something to break down the corrosion and then planned on cleaning it out with denatured alcohol. Thanks for the help, need to pull an RT on/off out of the pile somewhere and see if that helps.
    Emag On/off assembly works. Stock emag pin and make sure you use the quad oring.

  10. #40
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    It's seems to be working decent with a standard RT on/off.

  11. #41
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    Glad to hear. Yeah those 4 set screws are very important to keep the noid in place so it doesn't work itself backwards. There are no springs to push the noid back. It's all based on the pressure of the on/off pushing the sear and noid back. A lot of people freak out thinking their hyperframe doesn't work cause it won't make a sound when they click the trigger. I do have a prototype hyperframe I got from Bunny that has a spring in it and a custom hyperframe board with a full auto 20bps but that is the only one I've seen with a spring to help the noid reset.

    Yeah hyperframes are awesome and you should totally keep it. At least play one game with it some weekend so you can check it off your paintball bucket list.

  12. #42
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    Ok. I does seem to work fine, but of the 4 set screws only the set towards the back of the frame are really engaging. In order for the noid to be fully set back into the pocket so that it fits flush with the back side of the pocket the two front set screws if screwed in would actually hit off of the noid housing and interfere with the plunger. Is it supposed to be centered? It seems like if it was moved farther forward for the front two set screws to engage that it might not open up enough.

  13. #43
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    Noid should sit all the way towards the BACK of the frame with no problems.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Noid should sit all the way towards the BACK of the frame with no problems.
    Maybe I need to take a pic, but if I put the noid all the way towards the back of the frame the two front set screws on the top of the frame just miss the noid and would sit in the gap that would be there when the the plunger is all the way forward.

    DSCN8857.jpg

    Due to lighting I couldn't get a clear pic showing the set screws so I put an allen wrench showing where they would come down. Should I move the noid forward just enough to catch the set screws or leave it all the way back and just go with the two?
    Last edited by OPBN; 07-17-2014 at 09:44 AM.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Maybe I need to take a pic, but if I put the noid all the way towards the back of the frame the two front set screws on the top of the frame just miss the noid and would sit in the gap that would be there when the the plunger is all the way forward.

    DSCN8857.jpg

    Due to lighting I couldn't get a clear pic showing the set screws so I put an allen wrench showing where they would come down. Should I move the noid forward just enough to catch the set screws or leave it all the way back and just go with the two?

    Do the two screws near the front interfere with the plunger movement? If not, use them. You should use all 4 screws, that noid will move if its not secured.

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    Do the two screws near the front interfere with the plunger movement? If not, use them. You should use all 4 screws, that noid will move if its not secured.
    Yes they do. That's why I'm asking if the noid should be moved forward just enough so the set screws will catch it?

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    Yes they do. That's why I'm asking if the noid should be moved forward just enough so the set screws will catch it?
    Yes! Try to shim the back of the solenoid against the pocket, but that might be tough.

  18. #48
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    Yeah the noid should sit with all 4 screws holding it down but the front screws not touching the clapper part of the noid. You are luck the set screws can even move. They normally get stripped and stuck.

    Your noid should still have enough room to move back and forth to hit the sear. Try putting the body, rail and frame together and use an Allen key to push the sear down as far as it will go. If it goes down past the body and the front comes up enough to snag and hold the bolt then you should be fine. Make sense?

  19. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sk8ermog View Post
    Yeah the noid should sit with all 4 screws holding it down but the front screws not touching the clapper part of the noid. You are luck the set screws can even move. They normally get stripped and stuck.

    Your noid should still have enough room to move back and forth to hit the sear. Try putting the body, rail and frame together and use an Allen key to push the sear down as far as it will go. If it goes down past the body and the front comes up enough to snag and hold the bolt then you should be fine. Make sense?
    Yeah. I might just try sliding is forward, put temporary shim in to keep it solid while I screw the sets screws down to make sure its even and straight. If it stops working Ill just use the two back ones.

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