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Thread: Lowering the Trigger Pull on a Classic Valve

  1. #1

    Lowering the Trigger Pull on a Classic Valve

    Hey everyone.

    I have been breathing new life into my Mag classic lately and was wondering about decreasing my trigger pull weight.

    Now, i've done my research and seen that a ULE will not work well, if at all, and what I should be looking for is an RT On/Off..

    Problem is that I cant find one new anywhere; which leads to my question - I can get an Emag on/off new from tunamart.

    Emag/mag on/off assy. Comes complete with pin(.712) and quad oring


    Will it work? I just have no idea...

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    The only difference between and EMag on/off and an RTPro on/off is the length of the pin and the O-rings that come with it. Contact Tuna and let him know that you need a standard RT Pro on/off with a 7.50 pin and he will set you up.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    The only difference between and EMag on/off and an RTPro on/off is the length of the pin and the O-rings that come with it. Contact Tuna and let him know that you need a standard RT Pro on/off with a 7.50 pin and he will set you up.
    Will do, thanks!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    it's on tuna's website, you didn't look hard enough!

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude View Post
    it's on tuna's website, you didn't look hard enough!
    I found it after a little more digging.

    Now i have been reading all day about how a ULE kit will work, but increases the chance of short stroking. Is a ULE trigger pull kit a really bad idea.... or...? Don't mind having to pull it and release it all the way for every cycle like an autococker, but I also want to keep it beginner friendly as it is mainly a loaner gun.

    Has anyone tried a ULE kit with a .750 rt pro pin?

    Edit: maybe scratch the .750 pin idea.... Now i'm reading that it works fine in a lvl 10 classic valve with a f-ton of shims in it. is there any truth to this?
    Last edited by ascent; 07-18-2014 at 03:46 PM.

  6. #6
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    I have RT on/offs in several Classic valves and they work fine. Should be ok for a loaner marker, but honestly, I am the KISS type for backup/loaners. Keep it as simple as possible.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by OPBN View Post
    I have RT on/offs in several Classic valves and they work fine. Should be ok for a loaner marker, but honestly, I am the KISS type for backup/loaners. Keep it as simple as possible.
    Yeah, i guess taking it down from an 8lb trigger pull to 4 should be enough for a backup/loaner if it is hassle free and requires no fine tuning.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    it is recommended the the ult not be used in classic valves; i'm sure there's a good reason. i've got a couple of rt on/offs in classic valves though, and it makes a nice difference. i think that would be the way to go for your case...it's a drop-in part.
    Last edited by Cyco-Dude; 07-18-2014 at 07:10 PM.

  9. #9
    Yeah... I'll try that first. Trying to keep it as stock as possible while maximizing it's performance. This mag was my first Gun from years ago.. So its kind of sentimental to me.

  10. #10
    I put an rt on/off in a classic valve and can't tell any difference in the trigger pull

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    I put an rt on/off in a classic valve and can't tell any difference in the trigger pull
    really? mine have instantly been snappier and smoother with the RT on/off. I have a few I've done this way.

  12. #12
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by vintage View Post
    I put an rt on/off in a classic valve and can't tell any difference in the trigger pull
    your finger is defective! it should be pretty noticeable if you do it back to back.

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Halifax, N.S., Canada
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    7,389
    Quote Originally Posted by ascent View Post
    Now i have been reading all day about how a ULE kit will work, but increases the chance of short stroking. Is a ULE trigger pull kit a really bad idea.... or...? Don't mind having to pull it and release it all the way for every cycle like an autococker, but I also want to keep it beginner friendly as it is mainly a loaner gun.

    Has anyone tried a ULE kit with a .750 rt pro pin?

    Edit: maybe scratch the .750 pin idea.... Now i'm reading that it works fine in a lvl 10 classic valve with a f-ton of shims in it. is there any truth to this?
    The classic valve regulates the air pressure at the top of the on-off pin down to working pressure which really reduces the return force on the top of the smaller ULT pin. If you have any restrictions or friction areas in your mechanical mechanism, it will affect the return because that friction becomes a larger percentage of the total force requirement. You can control your finger to reduce its effect on each shot, but you also need to make sure the actual physical sear mechanism is in perfect condition and not rubbing anywhere.

    The ULT won't accept a normal rt pro pin. They only accept the ULT pins due to the ULT having a different pin diameter.

    Using a lot of shims in the ULT in the classic can help by reducing the distance that the pin needs to travel into the tip oring before the sear can release the bolt. This reduces some of the friction effect caused by the oring. However, it doesn't guarrantee results. Friction comes from many places. Chamber operating pressure also has an effect on the operation. The barrel you are using affects the operating pressure. Unfortuately, I think the less efficient your setup, the better a ULT will work in a classic valve. That is because the regulated air pressure is higher for an inefficient setup than for an efficient one.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    The classic valve regulates the air pressure at the top of the on-off pin down to working pressure which really reduces the return force on the top of the smaller ULT pin. If you have any restrictions or friction areas in your mechanical mechanism, it will affect the return because that friction becomes a larger percentage of the total force requirement. You can control your finger to reduce its effect on each shot, but you also need to make sure the actual physical sear mechanism is in perfect condition and not rubbing anywhere.

    The ULT won't accept a normal rt pro pin. They only accept the ULT pins due to the ULT having a different pin diameter.

    Using a lot of shims in the ULT in the classic can help by reducing the distance that the pin needs to travel into the tip oring before the sear can release the bolt. This reduces some of the friction effect caused by the oring. However, it doesn't guarrantee results. Friction comes from many places. Chamber operating pressure also has an effect on the operation. The barrel you are using affects the operating pressure. Unfortuately, I think the less efficient your setup, the better a ULT will work in a classic valve. That is because the regulated air pressure is higher for an inefficient setup than for an efficient one.
    Best answer in the thread so far. I think I understand now.

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