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Thread: pneumag classic help

  1. #1

    pneumag classic help

    Hey everyone, I just installed a pneumag frame on my classic. Now, i am assuming that the pneumag frame is working, and the classic was working before hand...
    I started by installing an rt on/ff, then the complete frame swap....

    Pulled the bit off the sear that you dont need....

    when i pull the trigger, the pneuframe works, but it doesn't trip the on off at all... any ideas?

    Should i not have the two the orings in the on off that were there with the classic on off?

    do i need a different sear?

    Tested it with the classic on off too... No change. Is it lvl 10 related?

    thanks!
    Last edited by ascent; 07-26-2014 at 01:33 PM.

  2. #2







    classic valve
    lvl10
    rt on/off
    plamers lpr @ ?psi (turned it up till it vented, still nothing... turned it all the way down, nothing) currently set to a little less pressure then needed to make it leak.
    classic rail
    ule body
    pneu intelliframe
    classic sear

    pneu frame vents with a hiss when i pull the trigger, but it moves...
    on off pin keeps getting stuck out on both the classic on off and rt one... have to remove the rail to dissemble .

    if i were to say one thing stands out, its that the sear really cant move for whatever reason tried tripping it by hand and its like frozen in there with everything together

    think i found the issue. the front of the sear is contacting the top of the pnu setup keeping it from moving like it should....should i grind down the sear till it can move freely?



    EDIT
    aaaand working.... the sear was contacting the top of the pneu parts and not moving.......
    Last edited by ascent; 07-26-2014 at 02:18 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dayton OH
    Posts
    575
    you do need the two o-rings there, you shouldn't need a different sear. what length on/off pin are you using? if it's the wrong size (should be .750), it could cause the gun to not work. if that's fine, it sounds like the actuator isn't pushing the sear far enough? what exactly do you mean by "doesn't trip the on/off"? does the sear not release the bolt? does air leak from the on/off?

    lol, i need to refresh more often, geez...late reply.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude View Post
    you do need the two o-rings there, you shouldn't need a different sear. what length on/off pin are you using? if it's the wrong size (should be .750), it could cause the gun to not work. if that's fine, it sounds like the actuator isn't pushing the sear far enough? what exactly do you mean by "doesn't trip the on/off"? does the sear not release the bolt? does air leak from the on/off?

    lol, i need to refresh more often, geez...late reply.

    the sear was contacting the top of whatever pneu part is up top. i just had to pull it out and seat it better. this thing is a hair trigger... just think it really needs trigger stops installed and a magnet mod installed. is there anyone on here that would be able to do that for me? i don't like drilling things, i make too many mistakes.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Dayton OH
    Posts
    575
    i think luke is the man for that job. trigger mods here, or if you prefer, you can buy a new trigger.

  6. #6
    Thanks man. I'll pick one of those up.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Daniel Island, SC
    Posts
    1,419
    If it's not tripping the rt on/off increase the lpr pressure it was setup for a ult before.

  8. #8
    Working like a dream man. The only issue that wasn't me related was that I had to replace a three cent barb, which I have a million of from working on cockers. Took in a little excess pneumatic hose and cut to length while I was at it. Very nice setup if you made it. I could not have done better.. Thanks for the frame!
    Last edited by ascent; 07-26-2014 at 08:57 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,380
    If you are using the retro on-off, you should be using the small urethane on-off top oring and not the small teflon classic on-off top oring.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,192
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    If you are using the retro on-off, you should be using the small urethane on-off top oring and not the small teflon classic on-off top oring.
    That's what I thought, but I haven't found a difference. What is the difference? All of my quad o-rings went soggy in storage, so I went to teflon (and a longer pin).

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    7,380
    I think the teflon one is a slightly different size than the urethane one. The teflon one is less forgiving, but necessary for using CO2. I did try a classic teflon oring in a retro one time and it leaked. It could have been a coincidence, but I have seen it brought up in a thread a while back and confirmed by someone else as well.

    If you pinch a urethane oring, it will come back to shape as long as it isn't cut. With a teflon oring, you are out of luck if you pinch it.

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