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Thread: Level 10, Spring piston.

  1. #1
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    Level 10, Spring piston.

    Decided to keep, at least for the time being a Hyperframe that I recently got in off Ebay. I got it up and running really well. Valve was marked Field Rental, but hoped it would take an L10. Nope. Had to mod it to work. BTW you need a 3/16 drill to do this. Drilled it, got it cleaned up and after screwing around with carriers finally got it to work.... Then it started venting out the back. Crap! I know some of the older pistons could not take the pressure of the L10 so I swapped the L7 back in. Started venting again. Double Crap!. So I pulled it back out, and took a look at the reg seat. Looked ok to me. It was the one that came with the Aluminum back, but decided to dig around and get another out of the parts box. Put it back together with the L7 and poof!, it worked. Started feeling cocky and decided to go back to the L10... After going up a carrier or two to get rid of the bolt stick, it worked like a champ. No bolt stick, L10 engages, and no venting out the back. It's a good day!

    Now my question is this. If I hadn't fiddle around with swapping out the reg seat, I would have either just stuck with the L7 or maybe gone out and bought a new piston to swap out. My question is, is there any way to tell the difference? Any marking? Any differences? And on a technical side, what is the exact difference between a piston that can take the pressure of an L10 and one that can't? Something tells me that the only difference is that one is adjusted differently.

    Thoughts? Comments?

    Here's a pic so far:

    DSCN8881.jpg

    Future plans call for:

    1. - 13 or 22 CI tank*
    2. - ULE milling on the rail
    3. - Possible upgrade on the Hyperframe
    4. - Clamping Feedneck
    5. - Dual Detent?
    6. - Anodizing

    * Setting it up for a 10 year old.
    Last edited by OPBN; 08-02-2014 at 01:26 PM.

  2. #2
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    no, there is no visual difference between the older piston and the new piston.

    the regulator pistons have an internal blow-off valve that is set to open at a certain pressure. this is a safety measure, so the gun won't shoot hot. you are correct though; the newer pistons are adjusted differently. you could make an older piston work by screwing the hex screw in, but you would have to test to see if it vents like it should at higher-than-normal input pressures.

  3. #3
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    ^^^ Which is my point. I know there was discussion a few times that you aren't supposed to take the reg piston apart for safety reasons, but the macroline would fail before it ever got to an unsafe level. Something tells me that the replacement is the same exact thing, but the spring or what is screwed in a twist or two more.

  4. #4
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    i think the better macroline has a 3000 psi burst rating? also, the newer pistons could have a stiffer internal spring instead of more preload (screw turned in more). or maybe both lol.

  5. #5
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    ^^^ Pretty sure it's 1800psi. And the fittings would fail probably at that point as well. The SS valve is rated at 3k. Pretty sure the macro will give out before the valve hits an unsafe level.

  6. #6
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    http://www.airsoldier.com/mm5/mercha...Code=MACROLINE

    By popular demand, now available in color. Our color macroline is much more flexible than our black macroline, but is also rated for a much lower pressure (we only recommend it for use with LP output air systems).

    Black macroline specs:

    Black Nylon-12
    .150" ID
    .250" OD
    .050" wall
    1000 psi working pressure (3000 psi burst)
    0.5" bend radius

    Color macroline specs:

    Red or blue (discontinued) Nylon-12
    .170" ID
    .250" OD
    .040" wall
    450 psi working pressure (1350 psi burst)
    0.5" bend radius

  7. #7

    Wow! Good to know this. I was just putting a yellow macro line on one of my SHP mags. I never realized that this was dangerous. Thank you.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by djinnform View Post
    Wow! Good to know this. I was just putting a yellow macro line on one of my SHP mags. I never realized that this was dangerous. Thank you.
    This is for the stuff that Airsoldier sells. I don't think it's the specs on all colored macro. I have some blue and red stuff here that is very thick walled and most likely to the higher tolerance. Look at the wall thickness on the macroline and that will give you an idea of what you have.

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