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Thread: New to Automags

  1. #1
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    New to Automags

    Got my first Automag a few months ago from a friend, finally upgraded from my Tippman Pro-lite (still in use). He let me steal it from him for next to nothing. He stopped playing and figured I'd give it a good home. So after I replaced some o-rings in the valves it runs like a champ and gets alot of attention from older players. While I'm not new to paintaball (playing intermitantly for 15 years), I just got back in again. I was looking to upgrade this marker. The only place if have found for new parts and the 3 at the top of the page. Was looking to see if there was anything else out there, or what are people mixing and matching. If you have a link post it.
    Thanks in advance for the suggestions.

  2. #2
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    What type of upgrades are you looking for would be my question? Will help steer you towards the right spot. Might also help to give a ballpark of what you're expecting to pay or what you have to spend. There are $25 upgrades, there are $1000+ upgrades, so having a budget in mind helps.
    Last edited by OPBN; 08-11-2014 at 12:45 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Beaumont,Tx.
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    look in here to see many examples of things you can do with your Mag.
    http://www.automags.org/forums/conte...-winner-circle

  4. #4
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    open budget, Looking more functional (higher BPS) than beauty. Looking to only do mechanical, the only thing i would like electric on it is the hopper which i already have.

  5. #5
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    i would suggest dumping your mag on someone else and run away... run far far away... it's an infectious disease that cannot be stopped...

  6. #6
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    Carlisle, PA
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    :-(
    Soul is telling the truth.. I started with one.. Now I have 3.. It wasnt supposed to be like this..
    March 2014 Classic MotM winner - RT Classic

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwinter View Post
    open budget, Looking more functional (higher BPS) than beauty. Looking to only do mechanical, the only thing i would like electric on it is the hopper which i already have.
    What type of hopper do you have? If it's forcefed vs agitated I would suggest a ULE body. Really there are crap tons of options. If you want high bps without electronics there are a couple of routes to go. Its really a pretty broad question when asking "what upgrades are there?" Its not like a Prolite where there really aren't any.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Dayton OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by DarkApollo View Post
    :-(
    Soul is telling the truth.. I started with one.. Now I have 3.. It wasnt supposed to be like this..
    only three?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jwinter View Post
    open budget, Looking more functional (higher BPS) than beauty. Looking to only do mechanical, the only thing i would like electric on it is the hopper which i already have.
    do you have a classic valve or a reactive valve (rt classic, rt pro, ReTro, emag, x-valve)? if you have a classic valve, you could get an rt on/off and a double trigger frame; it would lighten the trigger pull a bit. really, if you want high bps, you need a reactive valve of some sort and high pressure input from the tank regulator (at least 950 psi).

  9. #9
    If you are looking for mech and higher bps I'd say get a pneumag frame, adding a ule body will also make it little lighter, center feed and you would be able to use autococker thread barrel of your choice.

    Now the real question is do you want to buy piece by piece or buy another whole marker. Piece by piece can be a trap, like everyone on here know before long you have enough to have 3-4 with some parts left over and you look at those parts and go. Geez i only need a frame, valve or rail and I have another.

    I think I am up to 8 and that's the one I remember having and not counting all the extra parts waiting to be built into something.

  10. #10
    Jwinter,

    Welcome to the forums!

    Might I suggest posting a picture of your mag in this thread so we can break it down for you and let you know which parts you have, and what to substitute them for in the case that you're looking for a higher rate of fire.

    Naturally, for a faster shooting mag, you'd want to upgrade to a X-valve, and then get your hands on a Ninja SHP Tank.
    That's just for starters, but with those parts and your bouncy trigger, you'll already be pushing over 20bps.

  11. #11
    what they said above and welcome to the addiction.

  12. #12
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    Aug 2014
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    North Carolina
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  13. #13
    ULE body, X valve with RT on/off with a ninja shp regulator at 950 or higher. the grip frame is a personal choice as if the gas thru front, both can be changed for a better personal fit if you want you won't find a lighter frame though. you can probably sell the splash ano barrel pretty easily.

  14. #14
    rt valve with rotor and ninja SHP 1100 output.... u will piss some people off pretty quick lol....people gut butt hurt when your 10 year old marker shoots faster than there luxe

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Just a suggestion, go to the Armory section of this site, and pull up the pictures of a bunch of peoples Mags and madness. Then ask a ton of questions about what you see and like. A lot of part lists are posted with their guns so you can get an idea of what to get. This will help you to get the right parts from the beginning. Also doing it this way you can avoid the box with $2000 worth of spare parts. or having 10 mags. Welcome to the Mag family.
    If it were one of mine I'd get a ULE body 1st. Oh and if your wanting crazy rate of fire a level 10 bolt system is a must.
    Last edited by Runamok; 08-12-2014 at 03:56 AM.
    I took the road least traveled...now where the hell am I ?

  16. #16
    I'd start with the x-valve upgrade. I upgraded my classic-L7 with an x-valve about 4 months back and even without an SHP reg I'm able to put more paint down range. Combined with the slight BPS boost and the difference the level 10 makes avoiding chops I'm not feeling out matched by all the electrons anymore. I'm planning to get the SHP upgrade myself in 3 or 4 months and I'm sure based on my experience so far that'll put me over the top when it comes to fire power on the field. I'd stay away from changing anything else about the marker itself. Right now your mag has the old school look and if you go ULE and change the main body you're likely to bust the old school vibe. Not only that if you think you're going to do much more to the marker itself aside from upgrading the valve you'd probably be better off buying a brand new mag. Also note that you might have to swap out the feed plug depending on how old it is if you want to max out your BPS.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Sebring, Florida
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    An RT Pro valve will do the same as an X valve and they cheaper to start with. A ule body will bring the hopper in tighter and reduce your overall height and width. Along side of the autocockers Mags are one the the most customize able guns around. "Because Allah loves infinite diversity..." Morgan Freemans quote from "Robin Hood" movie.
    Last edited by Runamok; 08-12-2014 at 04:08 AM.

  18. #18
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    Aug 2014
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    North Carolina
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    Will the classic valve handle the increase of pressure to the ninja HP reg? I'm going to have to upgrade in stages. Also tell me more of this pneumag. Watched some youtube on it very interesting.

  19. #19
    Yes no problem using HP on any agd valve. Pneumag you can have it all mech, part electro or full on epmag which would be using a board and eyes. Most common frame to make a mech pneumag is an entilli or ego frame. It will make the trigger pull easier and if you have a HP tank you will increase your rps. Like others said, you would have the same rates has guys with top end markers with the newest board whatever and it's all mech.

  20. #20
    I'd go with pneu mag if you're a tinkerer. Mag guys tend to be tinkerers anyway, but you just need to know what you're getting into.
    Pnuemags are less efficient, but tend to produce the only walkable, mech mags. (which I really, really like.) Also, if you're going the pneumag route, you can stick with your classic valve for now, just get an rt on/off for it (which you may already have since it is a very common upgrade. show us a pic of the bottom of your valve.)

    I don't like the reactive feel of RT valves, but that is personal preference. So if you feel like paying $200+ and starting down the path that Soul mentioned, get an x-valve with ULT on/off. Combined with a double trigger frame, this will produce one of the lightest mech trigger pulls available and you will still be able to put in a pnue-mag kit later if you see fit (although they tend to not play well with the ULT on/off).

    You should be able to sell your trigger frame with wood grips for ~$40. That will help you keep from accumulating enough parts to make more mags.

    Finally, I happen to like hopper-right bodies. If you are going for a ULE body and upgrading your trigger frame and don't want to spend a ton of money, you should just sell this marker and buy a ULE mag with the trigger frame you want. They've been going in the $400 range recently.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Sebring, Florida
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    Not to seem self seeking, but I do have almost every upgrade part you might want except the pnumag parts. Never went that route but I've read they're great. And if you cruise the bst form you can find almost anything. personally I kept my 1st mag just as I bought her and played many years with just the way I got it. If you need parts there are tons available here on A.O. and plenty of friendly advice .

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    VA
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    2,270
    Welcome to AO!! I think you have come to the right place for anything AGD related. Your best bet is to head to the B/S/T forums here and try to find your parts there. There always seems like there are deals out there, but you better check often since we have many lurkers that like to snatch up the good stuff. I suggest getting an Xvalve which includes the Lvl10 bolt. Good luck!

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