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Thread: Bolt sticking, not consistent on chrono and more! HELP!!

  1. #1

    Bolt sticking, not consistent on chrono and more! HELP!!

    Okay i have a bit of questions so hang in there while I try to explain. I have a automag with a LVL 10 xvalve running a ULT trigger. I have my air running from the ASA straight to the valve. My air system is a 68/4500 with a 2013 ninja SHP regulator. I'm runnin 5 shims in the valve itself and all the shims in the air tank regulator.

    So when I'm shooting, after about 3 shots the bolt will stick. When I say stick the gun will not fire and it feels as if the bolt doesn't reset.. After trying a couple different things such as turning off the air and turning it back on the bolt will reset but after a couple more shots it will stick again. I will also try "tapping" the side of the gun where the bolt is just behind the feed neck to hopefully reset the marker and that will work rarely.

    Also when I put my air tank on the gun and then turn on my air on the bottom of the gun, it is damn near impossible to fully tighten down the on/off nob. (I like to tighten down and then quarter turn back to get a good airflow)

    Next problem; after I get the air tightened down correctly I will go shoot the marker over the chrono and the gun shoots but the paintball goes maybe 4 feet then the next shot chromosome at 165 then the ball falls out on the 3rd shot and the next shot chrono a at 275 and the next 3 chrono at over 325 and then back to the paintball going 4 feet and sometimes it won't even push the ball out.

    I also hear a small..SMALL leak coming from elbow on the valve that connects the ASA line. I have taken the elbow off and put Teflon tape around to tighten the seal bt still there is a leak.

    Now for the final problem... When my gun was going through all this, my buddy loaned me his marker to go play and while I was on the field him self he took it upon him self to see if lube would help the gun. Yes monkey poo lube. He put lube on the bolt and bolt spring and all that external parts connected to the valve. What do I need to do to make sure there is no lube inside of the valve itself and if there is lube what is the worst to happen and what can I expect to happen since there may be lube inside the valve.

    Please help me as to I've had my valve serviced from the original owner 3 times and still nothing works correctly.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Inception Designs HQ
    Posts
    3,056
    Pull up task manager, click on "restore defualt settings" and go from there.

    If that doesn't work, its time to pull parts and get a working gun, then put the goodies in it.

    First, clean off the monkey poo. That was a heroic but stupid attempt to fix it. Mags like oil, not grease. Use KC troublefree or at least air tool oil.

    Next disassemble the valve. It sounds like you have dirt on the reg seat. The fitting isn't leaking.

    After cleaning the valve, redo your L10, but remove the ULT. Start with the smallest carrier, and work your way up. When you get a shooting, thwn you can install the ULT.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    The grease isn't for a mag. If it wasn't put inside the valve, its good to go once you get it cleaned off the bolt and spring. You don't even want light oil on the exterior of the bolt and spring. It just transfers to the breach area and onto the balls which causes big innaccuracy problems. If grease was put into the valve, you should clean the inside of the valve, but it may not be necessary. The mag tolerances are a bit tighter than most guns so the orings only need a moist coating for lubrication.

    What do you mean be "running 5 shims in the valve itself"? The only shims in the valve should be in the ULT. Make sure you are using the 0.005" ULT shims and not the thicker 0.01" level 10 shims. You can use the level 10 shims, but you can only use half as many.

    Erratic velocity can be caused by dirt in the velocity adjuster area or the regulator seat oring. A good cleaning of the valve is probably needed.

    It sounds like your original problem was a bolt stick issue and can most likely be fixed by tuning your level 10 bolt. A carrier size that is too tight will cause the bolt to stick and results in the sear not rotating forward to reset the trigger. Remember to remove all of the shims from the powertube when you tune it. Don't put them back in.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

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