#113 for all you Chuffers
I have a leak that i can't fix. This is a reverse xvalve with a lvl x bolt and ULT. First i replaced every O-ring in this gun. It has a new reg piston since i mangled the original trying to open it. It leaks from the vent hole in the back section of the valve. Regardless of the pressure or if im holding the trigger it leaks. I cleaned it out, replaced all the orings and the reg piston and lubed it up. I can't figure out the leak. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
https://youtu.be/rX-Q_JHsU7c
Last edited by Boobie817; 05-14-2015 at 01:42 PM. Reason: added video of problem
I really need a Battery.....
CHUFF CHUFF
Registered User
back the velocity ajustment out and see if it stops
Registered User
back it out until it quits then start back in until it starts leaking then out just enough to stop and then chrono it and see what you've got.Originally Posted by vintage
all right, first carefully examine this exploded diagram and make sure all o-rings are present. disregard the powertube front, as you have a lvl 10 bolt instead of the lvl 7. next, unscrew the regulator and pull out the regulator seat and regulator seat o-ring and make sure there is no debris that could be causing a poor seal.
#113 for all you Chuffers
Velocity adjustment has no affect on leak. If I keep turning down there's not enough pressure to shoot.
#113 for all you Chuffers
I took apart the valve, on off and the power tube sections completely. Cleaned, installed new orings, relubed and this is where I'm at.
#113 for all you Chuffers
added a video. someone has to help.
Registered User
just because the o rings are new doesn't mean they are good, at the operating pressure of a mag a microscopic spec of dirt or bad spot on an o ring can cause your problem. i have an rt classic that i put 2 sets of o rings on the reg piston before i got it to quit leaking. i just noticed you in NYC, 2 of the best techs are very close to you, one on Staten Island and the other in Rutherford NJ. get ahold of BigEvil or Tunaman and they can not only fix it but show you what they did.
Nobody's Perfect
BigEvil uses Jack Daniels and cigar smoke. Tuna uses moonshine and ancient fishing secrets to fix mags.
Joking aside, if you can't fix it, send it to them and ask what was wrong. It very well be a spec of dirt(the mag can be that sensitive) that can cause a leak.
"it's leaking from this little vent hole" means the o-rings on the regulator pin assembly are bad, or contaminated with debris. clean or replace. you do not need to remove the little metal 'C' clip on the end; the o-rings can stretch over it. you will have an o-ring, then the split plastic washer, then another o-ring.
take the valve back out and unscrew the regulator. remove the reg seat and reg seat o-ring. the regulator valve pin assembly is inside the valve; pull it out (may take a bit of force). do it over a towel just in case it comes apart and the belleville washers fall off the pin. if they do, make sure to put them back in the correct orientation: ()()()()()
#113 for all you Chuffers
that part is incorrect. the washers are 90 durometer and cant stretch over the c clip. they end up mis shapen, larger in diameter due to stretching and the pin wont go in the valve. i went through a few before i got the clip off. i replaced those already. ive been emailing tuna. unfortunately he stopped responding. thats why i posted the video. I have more coming in the mail. i remember the power tube ones giving me problems too. tolerances are off the wall. no quality control.
the leak is coming from the regulator section. wouldnt that mean that the regulator piston o ring is bad?
Registered User
I've stretched many of them on and off with no problems. They are snug anyway. I'll bet the problem is somewhere in the pin ass't. We found one at Tunaball that was missing a couple of the washers and that was the problem.
that part is correct...i've done it a dozen times. if you're having problems with it, then you're probably doing it wrong...technique is everything. but, if you find it easier to remove the clip, then do it that way. it's just an extra step is all.
no. if the reg seat or reg piston o-ring were bad, it would be leaking from the back of the regulator adjustment nut.the leak is coming from the regulator section. wouldnt that mean that the regulator piston o ring is bad?
as for no tolerances...i don't know what to say. occasionally i do find some o-rings that are out of whack, but for the most part they've been pretty good.
Of course it works-its AGD
The leak is definitely one of the two orings on the regulator pin assembly, if the leak is out the side hole in the front half of the valve. If your leak occurs when you air up the gun with the trigger pulled, then the oring closest to the back is the one that is bad. If it only leaks when the trigger is released and sear is forward, then the oring closest to the front is the one that is bad.
It is tough getting the orings off and on, but it is possible. Make sure you inspect the area in the valve where they sit. A piece of dirt here will cause your leak. Wash the end of your regulator pin assembly is light oil to flush and dirt away from the underside of the orings. Just because you can't see any dirt on the outer surface of the orings, doesn't mean there isn't any on the inner sealing surface of the oring and pin.
Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.
#113 for all you Chuffers
Now that i reread this i think i have the wrong orings in the pin. The one i have are white and hard. Almost plastic, like the lvl x power tube one. I have some 90 durometer that aren't as hard. Just not the size i need. I just ordered some from McMaster. I'm an ass. Thanks guys. I'll update as soon as they come in
"white and hard, almost plastic" sounds like the teflon o-rings used in classic on/offs. they would be the same size. the lvl 10 power tube o-rings are not plastic though? they are urethane, just like regular power tube o-rings (although two sizes smaller).
#113 for all you Chuffers
Guys I'm forever indebted to your knowledge. I had the right size just wrong type. Put some buna 90s in there with some oil and it sealed right up. Now it's the silent killer I missed. I was beyond upset that this was going to end up a shelf queen. Thank you all.
Of course it works-its AGD
If you use buna orings, be careful using CO2. The buna orings don't work well with CO2. That is why the orings in mags are urethane.
lol, it's for an x-valve...i don't think people use c02 with those!
#113 for all you Chuffers
Xvalve doesn't work with CO2 from what I remember. There's still a slight leak. Guess I have to order urethane on Monday.lol, it's for an x-valve...i don't think people use c02 with those!
Specialized AGD Tech
If you are not using AGD orings then you have the wrong ones. These orings are hand picked for spec so don't use the cheap ones. The Buna orings will not last and will get little black particles throughout your valve all over your new orings. Get a parts kit and use the right ones.
#113 for all you Chuffers
Unfortunately I'm cheap and not paying $25 for 2 orings.
Of course it works-its AGD
Yeah. I was in a hurry and wasn't thinking about that.lol, it's for an x-valve...i don't think people use c02 with those!We all have our senior moments.
Of course it works-its AGD
You should have a complete kit anyway, just so you have all the right orings for any issue that might come up. I tried non-AGD orings a long time ago. I had issues with them and eventually threw them out. I don't use anything but AGD orings in any of my mags now. Its just not worth the hassle.
#113 for all you Chuffers
Update
Tunaman was able to get me the orings I needed. After replacing them and retuning my level 10, I'm happy to say my baby is back. He is truly a god among men. We are not worthy, we are not worthy. Thanks to everyone who helped me troubleshoot and look outside the box.
Last edited by Tunaman; 05-21-2015 at 07:45 PM.
#113 for all you Chuffers
UPDATE
The valve has sealed up and no longer leaks. However it seems that the level X is eating orings for some reason. I tune it still it stops leaking. Put it away. Check again the next day and it's leaking. It's a vicious cycle at this point. I check the inner shaft of the bolt that passes through the oring and can't see any thing that would damage the rings. I even cleaned that area several times. Any suggestions?
Nobody's Perfect
Stupid question, have you oiled it? After tuning it, or even as it leaks, did you out in some oil? Most leaks are a result of dry orings and not necessarily a bad oring. If you are tearing it apart and using your hands, the lube could very well be coming off the parts. Put 3 drops of oil(KC Troublefree or the ne w version of it-which i forget the exact name) in the ASA or even direct into the airline and gas it up. Shoot it through and generally the leak stops.
Also, with this new leak, where is it coming from?
Of course it works-its AGD
Yes, identify exactly where it is leaking from. Is it the same leak out the side as before, or is it a leak out the front, or some other location?
#113 for all you Chuffers
It's leaking from the power tube. At first it seals. The more I shoot, the more it leaks. When I hold the trigger it has a really slight almost unnoticeable leak. Move down in carrier, oil everything and the same thing happens. Gone through 4 orings already. I'm thinking the bolt has a imperfection on it that is damaging the oring as I shoot. The first few shots are OK. Then the leak starts and gets more prominent as I shoot. I'm lost here, again. These are AGD orings. The ones that came with the level x
Of course it works-its AGD
The level 10 bolt is so sensitive, that it must have an oring seal that is just tight enough to seal, but not too tight to cause sticking. The carriers are sized so that you can adjust the tension on your oring because each oring is slightly different. Each time you change a level 10 carrier oring, you need to tune your level 10 bolt using the carriers. Don't just change the oring without making sure the tension is proper by using the loosest carrier that does not produce a leak.
Do you have all the shims removed from your powertube? Shims can cause the vent hole to be slightly exposed, resulting in an intermittent leak. Holding the trigger and hearing a slight hiss is one of the symptoms of this.
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