Classic 68 firing problem..

[joe5088gt]

This is my first post so if this question has been beat to death, point me in the right direction. I have been out of the sport for over 15 years and I have been really wanting to get back into it, I could remember that Automags were a really high quality marker when I was playing but never could afford one (or get my parents to buy me one) so at the rip age of 29, I bought my first Automag Classic 68 on Ebay a couple weeks ago. What my problem is, when it is aired up, it just goes off on its own, meaning, finger straight and off the trigger, the marker shoots whenever it feels like it, and almost acts like a full auto marker when I do actually fire it. For some reason the safety has been removed from the lower grip, (I will be getting a different grip assembly anyway) so I'm sure no field will let me in. Has anyone else had any issue related to this? My first guess was maybe the sear is worn / sticking? Or maybe the valve assembly needs a rebuild? I have only owned a tippmann pro-carbine so I'm about as much of a newbie as you get when it comes to Automags, so any help would be appreciated.

[vintage]

i have lost count of how many of my mags don't have a safety, your primary safety is your trigger finger. it could be a worn broken sear, you did not state what your input pressure is and someone may have shortened the on/off pin trying to make it perform like an rt which it can't no matter what you do to it, too much pressure and too short a pin could be causing this i believe(others will verify this i'm sure). first thing i would do is buy a rebuild kit from AGD or Tuna and go thru the valve, check the sear for obvious damage and see if it still does it after the rebuild. it may be as simple as the bolt spring being worn out and not pushing the bolt back far enough for the sear to catch or the bolt itself may need replaced.

[kfletch]

Yeah a worn spring not pushing the bolt back far enough for the sear to latch was my first thought as well. Also if they used a thicker bumper behind the bolt then you are supposed to it would stop the sear from latching as well. Should be a blue...

[Cyco-Dude]

well, no time like the present to educate yourself! here is an exploded diagram of the classic valve, and here is a basic troubleshooting video, although it pertains mostly to leaks. automags are pretty basic and easy to work on...two things you'll appreciate! much easier than working on a pro-carbine that's for sure.

i see an agd parts kit in your future...

[athomas]

A worn bolt spring causes bolt stick by not pushing the bolt back far enough, but usually not full auto. If the bolt does not go back far enough, it doesn't allow the sear to rotate forward to open the on-off pin, so the front chamber won't recharge with air for the next shot.

Full auto is generally caused by a worn bolt or sear, or an on-off top oring that is leaking. I would replace all the orings in the valve as a first step with any used ebay or interent purchased valve unless it is coming from a known and trusted source. That way you know you are starting with good fresh orings. That reduces the chance of an oring related malfunction. Once that is done, check for proper operation.

[joe5088gt]

thanks for all the excellent info, I'll definitely be ordering a rebuild kit and new sear, hopefully that takes care of my issue.

[Cyco-Dude]

thanks for all the excellent info, I'll definitely be ordering a rebuild kit and new sear, hopefully that takes care of my issue.

is the sear actually damaged? the edge that contacts the bolt lip should be a nice, sharp angle. not rounded or chipped.

[athomas]

I agree. Check your sear first. It might not be worn. If it isn't, then a fresh set of orings might be all that you need.

[Evil1]

Quick question. If you remove the bumper, is there a snap ring holding the power tube on or is it a one piece air chamber?

[Tunaman]

Quick question. If you remove the bumper, is there a snap ring holding the power tube on or is it a one piece air chamber?

Its one piece. Level 6 was screwed on, Level 7 was welded on.

[vintage]

Quick question. If you remove the bumper, is there a snap ring holding the power tube on or is it a one piece air chamber?

what is the number on the valve? the early ones had a snap ring and most of them were traded back in for the screw in type.

[Evil1]

My buddy had the same problem with an old one with the snap ring and sent it to agd and got a whole new valve. I'd say that was around 97 or 98.

[athomas]

The level 7 valves were out in late 1992. 1993 was a big year for Automags. No one could keep them in stock because of the demand. If the valve is named a Automag Classic , then it is one of the newer ones. The original ones were named 68Automag.