Running an E-mag Valve on a 'Mech Mag

[Coenen]

Some time ago I picked up a used mag here on AO as a project. I've always wanted one, and the price was right, so I sprang.

Its got an an E-mag Valve, on a Minimag Body, with an Intelliframe, and a Level 7 bolt kit. I've got a Level 10 waiting in the wings, but thought it'd be smarter to get it working as is first, and save that install for later. I'm running it all off of an old school, "Red" Crossfire preset HPA system. I got it aired up, and breathing pretty quickly. There were some leaks, but I dumped a bunch of oil into the reg, and they went away, no problem.

This brings me to my first real hurdle with this gun, I took it to the field yesterday, hand fed a few balls into the powerfeed, and shot over the chrono; 311, 330, 332, OUCH! Got my wrenches out, and turned the reg down until we got her doing between 285 and 290. The only problem is that now, the marker won't fully cycle. At the higher pressure there was a very crisp pull, and RT push-back, I could even get the gun to "run-away" a little bit. I was pretty sure from reading that that would go away as we dropped the pressure down to chrono, however, I was not expecting completely lose the ability to cycle.

I'm fairly handy with the various guns I've owned, but this is my first 'Mag, and I'm not quite sure what to look for. I suspect that there's something going wrong with the interplay between the trigger, trigger pin, sear, and on/off, but to be honest, I'm not sure quite what to do with which components to get this thing rolling. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[Cyco-Dude]

what exactly do you mean it won't cycle? what color is the bolt spring? the velocity at which you set the valve has nothing to do with the valves reactivity; that is determined by the tank's input pressure and length of the on/off pin.

it sounds like this valve may have a red or trimmed gray bolt spring; the solution is to replace that with a new gold spring, or if it's a gray spring, trim another half-coil off and test it again.

wait, nevermind this. for some reason i thought it already had a level 10 bolt installed. it should have a regular gold (or older black) bolt spring installed.

[athomas]

The velocity setting usually doesn't affect the ability to cycle on a mag valve with a level 7 bolt. It also doesn't have that much affect on the reactivity of the trigger.

Check your trigger rod length. When you have the marker aired up, put the safety on and hold the trigger against it. There should be a small air gap the thickness of a credit card between the back of the trigger and the front of the trigger rod.

Usually, anything causing issues with a mag is oring related. You mentioned leaks that were fixed with a bit of oil. That means things were dried out. Orings don't last long exposed to air. Give the valve a good cleaning and check the orings. You should replace them if they look suspect or if you know they are old.

[captian pinky]

Make sure you are not using the short on/off pin. It should be .740-.750.

[Cyco-Dude]

Make sure you are not using the short on/off pin. It should be .740-.750.

would it not be fine if it was using the quad o-ring?

[Coenen]

Thanks for the replies! I honestly didn't know if the velocity setting would effect reactivity or not, I just assumed less pressure coming through to the marker would probably lessen the effect. I was wondering about the trigger rod, it's obviously adjustable, thanks for the tip there, I'll make sure to get it within spec. Sounds like the whole deal will come down to a simple rebuild, that's fine with me.

About the On/Off pin, do I have to replace the entire On/Off unit, or can I just find a longer pin, and replace that by itself? Will an X-ring address this issue with no replacement needed, and if so, what size and material will I need to install?

I'm really looking forward to getting this project off the ground, and on the field!

[Laku]

You can buy different length pins from tuna, they are interchangeable between same type of on/off. (Different types roughly being, classic on/off, rt on/off and ult).

Not sure what you mean with X-ring?

[Cyco-Dude]

well, i think you should measure the pin you have first with some calipers. if you do have the .712" pin it should work with a quad o-ring (you can get some from tunaman here if you need anything). otherwise the standard length is .750" with a regular 90-duro urethane o-ring that you get in x-valve rebuild kits.

[Coenen]

well, i think you should measure the pin you have first with some calipers. if you do have the .712" pin it should work with a quad o-ring (you can get some from tunaman here if you need anything). otherwise the standard length is .750" with a regular 90-duro urethane o-ring that you get in x-valve rebuild kits.

I think you're right. Instead I ordered an AM/MM pin, not knowing wouldn't work with my RT On/Off. Whoops! I always did like to learn a new gun the hard way.

The "new" pin showed up today, and I took the On/Off out today and had a looksee inside. I think I found the problem. This gun apparently spent some time in a pretty unfriendly environment before coming to me. The top of the pin, and the On/Off were pretty much caked with black sludge that I can only surmise used to be the quad o-ring. I got most of it out, but there are a few bits hanging on, anyone know a good way to get it cleaned up? Maybe some sort of solvent?

Judging from today's lesson, I was a $1 o-ring away rather than a $5 on/off pin. D'oh! At least I'm a step closer to a working gun today than I was yesterday.

[Cyco-Dude]

hmm...probably just try to get it out with an o-ring pick or toothpick. see if a q-tip soaked in alcohol does anything.