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Thread: My warpless Rotor project

  1. #31
    I'm interested in knowing where this ended up? I thought I remember people talking about mocking up a new printed parts so cutting is minimized.

  2. #32
    with loguzzzzs new mounts, id be down for one of these, i have a spare rotor id cut up all day

  3. #33
    It looks like the warp tube needs to be fixed inside the lid to stay over top of the red paddle, since it turns. Is that the case?

  4. #34
    Ive tried hunting down the box rotor parts needed to make this great idea, but have been unsuccessful. Anyone have leads or access to dye parts?

    I can't get due to respond to inquries

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    108
    Did you by chance test to see if the hopper would feed the gun consistently with out modification?

    I'm thinking hopper totally stock, no mods, mounted with the proper bracket and a feed tube to the gun.

    I'm kinda scared to cut up my rotor, by at the same time I fear the effort required to use a q loader, the alternative.

    Thanks,
    Jim
    yes, i could have purchased something new for the same money.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Hillsboro, Oregon
    Posts
    92
    Quote Originally Posted by tucson.az.jbreen View Post
    Did you by chance test to see if the hopper would feed the gun consistently with out modification?

    I'm thinking hopper totally stock, no mods, mounted with the proper bracket and a feed tube to the gun.

    I'm kinda scared to cut up my rotor, by at the same time I fear the effort required to use a q loader, the alternative.

    Thanks,
    Jim
    This is what I am going to be trying to do. I haven't gotten everything set up to try it out yet though. I was going to order a higher torque motor and install it into the hopper and see if it will work.

    I would like to get the Box Rotor parts though, that seems like it would be a nice way to go.

  7. #37
    if someone gets me the top shell for the rotor,
    i could try to cad one that doesnt have to be hacked up, i print it and you put it on your rotor, and boom warpless rotor.
    I sell new 800 mah Emag batteries, in dealers section, or pm for pricing. batteries ready to ship

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    2,428
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    if someone gets me the top shell for the rotor,
    i could try to cad one that doesnt have to be hacked up, i print it and you put it on your rotor, and boom warpless rotor.
    I'm not in on this project but I'm also not needing my rotor for a couple of months. I don't care to send the top piece out for blueprinting if there is anyone that wants to cover shipping each way.

  9. #39
    I think I have the standard shell top as well that I'm not using. I have the extended capacity on my rotor currently, so the standard tip is in my spare parts bucket. Not sure if you need the lid and ext, but I can send the plan top without the lid. Since it's sitting I can send without worrying to much with time frame as long as I do get it back.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Tampa, hot & humid.....
    Posts
    7,153
    He'd probably need the lid to make sure it fits ok on the new printed part.
    "When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty." Thomas Jefferson

  11. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by blackdeath1k View Post
    I'm not in on this project but I'm also not needing my rotor for a couple of months. I don't care to send the top piece out for blueprinting if there is anyone that wants to cover shipping each way.
    i might be set but ill keep it in mind.

  12. #42
    I can send a complete lid/top, although I think you have it already covered. Let me know if this is of interest to you.

    I'm excited to see this done, especially on the design end. I was thinking more about the feed port that will arise out of the lid and how it connects to the internal paddle (red piece) from box rotor. As previously mentioned, the paddles spin which make it a critical point since much is dependent on stack psi. I was invisioning a portion of the internal lid contains a sleeve oriented directly above the spinning paddles in the printed lid. This would allow flexibility in tolerances and allow the user to insert a cut 10rd tube to precise length without touching the paddles. Anyhow, I'm excited to see this come to life.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, SC
    Posts
    2,126
    why not just 3d print the piece that holds the lid on and a diagram of here to the the existing shell to make it fit. instead of doing a whole new top.

  14. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    why not just 3d print the piece that holds the lid on and a diagram of here to the the existing shell to make it fit. instead of doing a whole new top.
    because I can make a top that has no mods or cutting all the plumbing is articulated.

  15. #45
    I have my parts ready, let me know if you need some testing...wink wink

  16. #46
    I have a few projects. But if you are in town it makes conversation easier

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  17. #47
    Quote Originally Posted by knownothingmags View Post
    I have a few projects. But if you are in town it makes conversation easier

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
    Unfortunately I'm not In town, maybe next year for a pheasant hunt. I do understand your busy with life and projects. I'll raise a glass in hopes of taking a couple of these off your hands in the near future.

  18. #48
    I can travel, remind me in a pm where you are. I'll meet time

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  19. #49
    Fingers crossed while breathing life into this thread...........

  20. #50
    hey so how did you get the balls to feed up instead of down. ur pics confuse me some.
    im not at home so I don't have my rotor in front of me.

  21. #51
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, SC
    Posts
    2,126
    he is using the red and black pieces from a box mag. instead of pushing the paint down it pulls it up then he just made the tubing.

  22. #52
    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    he is using the red and black pieces from a box mag. instead of pushing the paint down it pulls it up then he just made the tubing.
    damn how do I get just those pieces

  23. #53
    I called dye and they sold me the parts. I ordered everything minus the battery pack in the second folder.



    Last edited by barkingspider; 11-04-2017 at 08:23 PM.

  24. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    980
    Quote Originally Posted by barkingspider View Post
    I called dye and they sold me the parts. I ordered everything minus the battery pack in the second folder.



    What did it run You?

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

  25. #55
    I think it was around $36, but that was 8 months ago.....my memory isnít so sharp these days

  26. #56
    ill be ordering what i need then.
    woop. this should be interesting.

  27. #57
    I can send you what I have if that is easier?

  28. #58
    Found my receipt from Dye, keep in mind I ordered two of each part

    Last edited by barkingspider; 11-05-2017 at 11:25 AM.

  29. #59
    perfect. thank you.
    ill see what kinda bulk buy i can get done for those parts.

  30. #60
    I ordered parts a couple years back too. Just got in my LT-R this weekend. You only need the red center-feed arm and the black cage that goes on top of it. You don't need any other parts. I ordered just those two things and, IIRC, I think it was something like $17 shipped to my house from DYE. You do have to call them directly though. No place online seems to sell those repair/replacement parts.


    Those parts are literally drop-in mods to make the Rotor feed upwards, and I tested it with reballs for awhile this evening. As far as 3D printing the mods to the shell, you may be able to just print a "color change kit" if the necessary feed hole in the upper shell fits completely below the main piece in the color change kit. That way people could just drill a hole under their color kit and it would be completely covered if they wanted to go back to the standard setup. I'm not sure a 1" hole would fit completely under the color change kit at the correct spot though.
    Last edited by Justus; 11-12-2017 at 08:55 PM.

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