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Thread: Emag wont fire

  1. #1

    Emag wont fire

    My emag will fire in manual but when set to electro it will not fire. I can here the noid clicking but it will not shoot. Any ideas? Does it just need oil? Thanks ahead of time! Oh and I'm running v1.35 on the board.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paintballnut777 View Post
    My emag will fire in manual but when set to electro it will not fire. I can here the noid clicking but it will not shoot. Any ideas? Does it just need oil? Thanks ahead of time! Oh and I'm running v1.35 on the board.
    charge the battery overnight and then check battery voltage. Should be 20+volts right off the charger. Check the charger output for 26+ volts. Let us know what you find.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. tunaman5@verizon.net
    Tunamart

  3. #3
    battery was fully charged. Green light on charger. I'll check the volts on the charger and battery in case. Thanks! If it's not the battery or charger what do you think it may be?

  4. #4
    Okay checked the volts volts are good. I did notice when it was on saftey it had a louder click from the noid but wouldn't shoot.

  5. #5
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    hmm...take the valve and body off, and make sure the solenoid is pulling the sear rod down.

  6. #6
    Thank you Cyco-Dude and everyone else that's been helping!

    I actually did that before I came back on here and it pulled the sear rod down and tested it with the 3 and 6 shot bursts and did what it was supposed to do. When I aired it up it wouldn't pull it down. Like it didn't have enough strength to pull it down. I adjusted the up and down and got to a point that the farther the piston was screwed out from the sear it was able to pull the sear rod down but it was to the point manual wasn't tripping the sear to fire.

    The only thing I can think of is it needs a new solenoid and that one just became weak. I just got this emag so that could be the reason. This is my first emag, I'm only familiar with the mech mags.

  7. #7
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    i'd check the specs of the sear with some calipers (note: remove the sear axle before trying to remove the rail).

    E-Mag:

    On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
    .725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.

    Trigger Rod: 2.125"

    Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005"

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paintballnut777 View Post
    Thank you Cyco-Dude and everyone else that's been helping!

    I actually did that before I came back on here and it pulled the sear rod down and tested it with the 3 and 6 shot bursts and did what it was supposed to do. When I aired it up it wouldn't pull it down. Like it didn't have enough strength to pull it down. I adjusted the up and down and got to a point that the farther the piston was screwed out from the sear it was able to pull the sear rod down but it was to the point manual wasn't tripping the sear to fire.

    The only thing I can think of is it needs a new solenoid and that one just became weak. I just got this emag so that could be the reason. This is my first emag, I'm only familiar with the mech mags.
    I have have repaired hundreds of Emags. I have only had a bad solenoid once. I would take bets you battery has a bad cell.

  9. #9
    It's the old 650 mah too

  10. #10
    I will check those specs a little later and get back to you. Thanks for sending me those. I know I have the aluminum top, I know that much.

  11. #11
    Okay I checked the specs and everything was in spec but the solenoid rod sear i shortened it to what it needed to be.

    I aired it up and still nothing. Manual still shoots like a dream though. I guess I'll buy a new battery and go from there. Really didn't want to pay for a battery that will cost as much as a car battery but oh well.

  12. #12
    I just checked my battery volts and it's saying 18.60 volts. I don't think it's the battery, less 18.6 volts means it's toast.
    Last edited by Paintballnut777; 11-22-2015 at 08:01 PM.

  13. #13
    Okay I just figured it out! I got curious and put my xvalve in because I knew it works like a champ. Put it in, put the emag on electro 3 shot burst and boom boom boom. I remeasured the on/off in the evalve again and sure enough I read my calipers wrong and it measured .750 so I have to replace it. So now I'm just going to leave the x valve in it for next weekend or until I get the replacement part from AGD. I'm glad I got that idea before I bought a new battery!

    Which on/off would be better, the .712 or the .725?
    Last edited by Paintballnut777; 11-22-2015 at 08:41 PM.

  14. #14
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    You should have the 0.712" pin and you should also have the black quad oring instead of the white urethane oring on your on-off top.

    You should think about getting an upgraded battery pack. The one you have probably doesn't have much capacity if it is an original AGD pack. Most NiMh batteries only last for 5 - 7 years tops, especially if they aren't stored fully charged. If yours is original, it would be 10 to 15 years old.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by athomas View Post
    You should have the 0.712" pin and you should also have the black quad oring instead of the white urethane oring on your on-off top.

    You should think about getting an upgraded battery pack. The one you have probably doesn't have much capacity if it is an original AGD pack. Most NiMh batteries only last for 5 - 7 years tops, especially if they aren't stored fully charged. If yours is original, it would be 10 to 15 years old.
    I have what looks like the aluminum on/off and the pin measures 0.750" I bought the emag recently off of mcarter. I don't know why it measures that length but it does, I put my x valve in and it shoots fine. The x valve has a ULE on/off ( i know not supposed to use it in an emag) but works. For now the on/off is the only issue I have.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paintballnut777 View Post
    I have what looks like the aluminum on/off and the pin measures 0.750" I bought the emag recently off of mcarter. I don't know why it measures that length but it does, I put my x valve in and it shoots fine. The x valve has a ULE on/off ( i know not supposed to use it in an emag) but works. For now the on/off is the only issue I have.
    the ULT kit reduces the force required to pull the trigger. so it makes sense that it works fine.

    i agree with the battery problem. batteries can measure steady state properly, but when loaded highly drop off dramatically. a dead cell is the classic reason for this, but it could just be worn out in general.

    could be the noid too, but a tuna said, that is pretty rare. i don't think ive ever seen an emag with a bad noid, boards and batteries go bad, but the noid is pretty rare to go bad.
    Last edited by cockerpunk; 11-23-2015 at 04:10 PM.
    "because every vengeful cop with a lesbian daughter, is having a bad day, and looking for someone to blame"

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    Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
    i agree with the battery problem. batteries can measure steady state properly, but when loaded highly drop off dramatically. a dead cell is the classic reason for this, but it could just be worn out in general.

    could be the noid too, but a tuna said, that is pretty rare. i don't think ive ever seen an emag with a bad noid, boards and batteries go bad, but the noid is pretty rare to go bad.
    I'm glad you were here to add your expert opinion

  18. #18
    I'll order a battery next week and give it a try but I have to make due with what I have now. I have a big scenario this saturday and need it. My pnuemag is almost ready so if the emag battery goes I have it and even if the battery dies I can put it in manual for the time being. If the battery is what everyone says than I believe it I know nothing about the emag (obviously lol). Just wish the replacement battery wasn't as much as a car battery.

    Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
    the ULT kit reduces the force required to pull the trigger. so it makes sense that it works fine.

    i agree with the battery problem. batteries can measure steady state properly, but when loaded highly drop off dramatically. a dead cell is the classic reason for this, but it could just be worn out in general.

    could be the noid too, but a tuna said, that is pretty rare. i don't think ive ever seen an emag with a bad noid, boards and batteries go bad, but the noid is pretty rare to go bad.

  19. #19
    Lol

    Quote Originally Posted by bigevil View Post
    i'm glad you were here to add your expert opinion :d

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    I'm glad you were here to add your expert opinion
    post something different, get attacked

    post something agreeing with someone else, get attacked

    eh.
    Last edited by cockerpunk; 11-24-2015 at 01:41 PM.

  21. #21
    I deal with that at work. LOL Follow the S.O.P. and G.M.P.'s get yelled at by fellow coworkers, don't follow it get yelled at and written up by supervisors!

    Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
    post something different, get attacked

    post something agreeing with someone else, get attacked

    eh.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by cockerpunk View Post
    post something different, get attacked

    post something agreeing with someone else, get attacked

    eh.

    I was being nice. Douche.

  23. #23
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by BigEvil View Post
    I was being nice. Douche.
    it comes off as sarcastic, and considering your past (and current) comments there is no reason to suggest otherwise. you've added nothing to this thread and your posts were uncalled for.

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    Douchenozzlesayswhat?

  25. #25
    Soooooooooooo you guys strongly believes it's just a battery issue?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paintballnut777 View Post
    Soooooooooooo you guys strongly believes it's just a battery issue?
    yes

  27. #27
    okay! Thanks Tunaman!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tunaman View Post
    yes

  28. #28
    I am having an issue with a brand new x-valve I just bought. Here is my set up: new lvl 10 x-valve, ule body, ule rail and sear, hyperframe e-trigger, gorrila 4500 psi 60 cu/in tank out put psi between 350/400. Trouble shooting I have done: turned in regulator until hyperframe solenoid would not move sear, swithched hyperframe out with manual benchmark trigger frame, adjusted regulator again, manualy pulled sear to rear as far as it will go, swithced out on/off with ule trigger pull kit on/off (the one with shims) and tried the shimming procedure from the trigger pull kit manual. All trouble shooting was performed with air on and no leaks were present. I am positive I am getting air due to the on/off assy does push the sear down. Every time the bolt never moved or leaked reguardless of the position of the sear or velocity adjustment. Old set up: ule body rail and sear, Minimag valve with hypeperframe same tank. It worked fine I just was tired of chopping paint.

  29. #29
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    level 10 takes more pressure than a level 7, you may have to increase your tank output.

  30. #30
    What is the operating pressure for a X-valve?

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