RT PRO with level 10 chopping paint

[Nobody]

A revy can get up to 12ish bps, but more to the point that if the L10 is working correctly, it won't matter what loader you're using, it will still stop the chop

[blackdeath1k]

I may get blasted for this. BUT. As nice as a L10 is. A shp tank running 1100psi in to an rt with no ball stack since its vert feed and a revvy is asking for chops. A L10 may stop 9/10 rapid fire overshoots but its not a 100% cure all. On the flip side first shot brakes have nothing to do with loader or L10 itself so i would deff agree more is going on here than just overshooting a hopper.

Also the old AGD foamies looked like the current ones. I've till got some mixed in from the late 90s. ANS had the venturi bolt that used the little dot stickers.

[Mondoatx]

Blackdeath,

Now that you mention it... I was using an ANS Venturi bolt with my old mag from the 90s (whole different gun I sold long ago). The stock bolt on that was foamiless... So this is the first I am seeing of the non-tiny dot foamy.

Also... I obviously need to upgrade the loader... Would a dye rotor do the job?

Thanks for the input.

Mondoatx

[ghost flanker]

With a feed rate of 35 bps, the reliable Dye Rotor will do the job multiple times over. My R2 is essential for keeping up with a bouncing RT trigger when I feel the carnal urge to summon an unholy hailstorm of paint onto an inanimate target. Even the Spire doesn't quite keep up when I rip 25 bps ropes out of my mags. A Revy is useless in this situation.

A used 1st gen Rotor will run you about $100, so not too bad. And three AAA batteries are cheaper than two 9 volts.

Now the downsides...

I'll tell you right now, a Rotor will be too big to fit in your stock ULE feedneck. A Spire will fit very, very snugly. Get an adustable feedneck for use with a Rotor or be happy with short bursts or slower rapid fire with a Spire.

Or... stick with your Revy! Or at least hold on to it. If you don't plan on rapid firing during a game, then a Rotor is kinda overkill, though it'll work just fine, too. But I gotta say, I actually kinda prefer my Revy over, both, my Rotor and my Spire. Yes, Revys are a bit on the tall side, but the Revy offers a much less obstructed field of view while aiming down the barrel on a low rise feedneck than does a fatter, lower-sitting, modern hopper (e.g. Rotor, Spire, etc.). Plus, Revys have the bonus of rain-proofing the contents of your hopper while the lid is closed. Rotors and spires do not.

[Mondoatx]

ghost flanker,

I do plan on doing some rapid firing... and with the output pressure of my compressed air being at 1100 PSI the ROF that gun is capable of is ungodly...

So let me make sure I understand this... So to use a Rotor you are saying I would need to buy a new body with a clamping feedneck?

I will hold onto the revvy for sure... it works well on my Rize.

Thanks,

Mondatx

[ghost flanker]

No, the feedneck unscrews from your ULE body. It's likely to be on there pretty tight and might pose a challenge to remove without scratching up the anno. Once you've got it removed, your new clamping feedneck will need to be Angel threaded.

[Sandman]

Use a heat gun to remove the feedneck. That is the proper way.

Tuna is the man for custom work.

At AGD we will reset to factory or sell new, but not custom work. for that you see Tuna.

[going_home]

A strap wrench.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-pc-ru...set-69373.html

Feednecks and bottle regs.

And a bench vise with the rubber protectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Magnet.../dp/B00A4YQR5E

[ghost flanker]

Maybe not the best method, but I use my Revy (the kind with the softer, stronger shell...do not try this with the hard plastic shell) to remove the stock feedneck. Twist the Revy counterclockwise while its in the feedneck and within a full turn the induced friction between the hopper and feedneck cup will overcome the friction between the threads, and the threads will just suddenly break free. At least it works for me. Your individual results may vary depending on how snug your particular Revy fits in your stock feedneck vs. how tight your feedneck is screwed in.

But if you got a heat gun or a strap wrench, then use those.

[Sandman]

Ghost,

That's a great way to turn the feedneck. clamp a loader in and turn. the issue is if you don't loosen the loctite with heat you can destroy the threads. Loctite can bond so tightly to the metal that it will rip the threads before giving itself up.
This happens literally all the time to bottles that someone has loctited the regulator into the bottle and does happen to feednecks that have been overly secured....

It all depends on the loctite and how well it was done or not done....

But you are taking a big risk to just apply force, because when it breaks it just may take the threads with it. Now you have a .10 cent piece of aluminum instead of $135 body.

[Mondoatx]

Thanks for the info guys...

This brings up another question.. If I get an adjustable feed neck (or a clamping feedneck, whatever you want to call it) will it adjust enough to let me use either the revvy OR a rotor... or I am giving up the ability to use the revvy?

Just curious and trying to look at this from all angles before I make a decision.

Thanks all.

Mondoatx

[ghost flanker]

Sandman,

Really? If that's the case, then using a strap wrench and vice without a heat gun is an even worse idea. At least the Revy-twist method allows a good amount of give/slippage between the hopper and stock feedneck to occur, thereby limiting the actual force being exerted on the threads. It honestly seems to be just enough force to break the threads free without much of a risk of destroying anything. The Revy's neck is just the right size for this. If, say, red or black loctite was used, then the Revy would just spin in the feedneck without anything happening, though I suppose anything is possible when it comes to things breaking. By the way, as a disclaimer, my Revy-twist method is not meant for anything other than a stock nonadjustable AGD ULE feedneck. I would not try this with a clamping feedneck.

Also, the stock feedneck on my Tac-One body seemed to only be locked in by friction; I did not see any telltale white dust in the threads the first time I removed it. If any, what color loctite does AGD use on their aluminum bodies??? Or are you just inferring the possibility that previous owners of ULE bodies could have applied loctite?

[ghost flanker]

Mondoatx,

An adjustable/clamping feedneck will allow you to use any hopper you want...Revy, Rotor, whatever. The only thing you will likely be giving up is a feedneck that matches the color of your blue ULE body. You might get lucky and find a matching blue one, though.

[athomas]

Also, the stock feedneck on my Tac-One body seemed to only be locked in by friction; I did not see any telltale white dust in the threads the first time I removed it. If any, what color loctite does AGD use on their aluminum bodies??? Or are you just inferring the possibility that previous owners of ULE bodies could have applied loctite?

Some seem to come off easier than others. The body I got from AGD has a feedneck that is so tight, that when I put the body in the clamp, I couldn't apply enough pressure to break it free without distorting the metal. I let off the force when I felt that it might be destructive. I left it alone after that. One of these days, I am going to get out my heat gun and heat it up to break the bond and remove the feedneck though. I do want a clamping feed neck.

[ghost flanker]

Wow, ok. The way I discovered my Revy-twist method was purely on accident. I was just trying to insert a Revy all the way into the stock feedneck. As I did so, I twisted the Revy around while pushing down to help it slide in. As I twisted left, though, the feedneck suddenly came loose. I'm the 2nd owner of the body, so it's possible the previous owner had already broken it loose before I ever got it. :/

[Mondoatx]

So... I went and played today with my Rize (RT Pro is still with Tuna) and I wanted to update everyone on the type of paint I was using (as promised).

It is Empire Marballizer...

It shoots out of my Rize with no problem.

Just wanted to let you guys know.

Mondoatx.

[ghost flanker]

That's odd. Empire's Marballizer has never seemed even slightly brittle at all in my experience.

...I just did the drop test (6 feet, flat concrete, low humidity, 80 degrees) on some Marballizer paint that's been sitting under my bed in a sealed bag for about a year. Each ball was still intact after 10 drops. Maybe they harden with age instead of becoming more brittle. :/

If you got any of that paint left, do the drop test and report back.

[Sandman]

Sandman,

Really? If that's the case, then using a strap wrench and vice without a heat gun is an even worse idea. At least the Revy-twist method allows a good amount of give/slippage between the hopper and stock feedneck to occur, thereby limiting the actual force being exerted on the threads. It honestly seems to be just enough force to break the threads free without much of a risk of destroying anything. The Revy's neck is just the right size for this. If, say, red or black loctite was used, then the Revy would just spin in the feedneck without anything happening, though I suppose anything is possible when it comes to things breaking. By the way, as a disclaimer, my Revy-twist method is not meant for anything other than a stock nonadjustable AGD ULE feedneck. I would not try this with a clamping feedneck.

Also, the stock feedneck on my Tac-One body seemed to only be locked in by friction; I did not see any telltale white dust in the threads the first time I removed it. If any, what color loctite does AGD use on their aluminum bodies??? Or are you just inferring the possibility that previous owners of ULE bodies could have applied loctite?

Ghost,

Ruined feedneck threads from improper installation or removal is not just an Automag issue by any means. Happens with all guns. On bottles too. The stuck valves will destroy the bottle threads...makes the bottle useless.

Most bodies we sell, get sold without a feedneck being installed. That means most customers are installing their own. We primarily use green loctite 290. Green is medium strength and is very thin. Does not leave much behind when it is broken. Green will wick too. It will find it's way around the threads. Red 271 is too strong and causes most of the issues in paintball with aluminum threads. You can use red but only on stainless, brass or steel threads and fittings. I like to use red on steel braided lines and quick disconnects if I'm not planning on taking them apart for a long time. Blue 242 is ok for locking screws and possibly feednecks, but in my experience it breaks too easily unless you pour it on and using too much presents it's own problems.

Cya!

[Mondoatx]

Ok... so I finally did the drop test on some of the paint.

Out of 5 balls... 3 of them didn't break after being dropped 5 times... 1 broke on the second drop... and 1 broke on the 4th drop.

I dropped them from shoulder height onto the garage floor (cement).

Let me know your thoughts.

Mondoatx

[Mondoatx]

oh...

And each one that broke did so on the 2nd or third impact with the floor... never the first impact. The ones that didn't break bounced 2-3 times.