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Thread: First Game with new (rebuilt) Minimag. Gun is great. Hate the trigger.

  1. #1

    First Game with new (rebuilt) Minimag. Gun is great. Hate the trigger.

    So I joined a few months back when I picked up a really cheap, bone stock Minimag or CL. Cleaned it top to bottom, put in a new O-ring kit, and topped it off with a UL body. Last post saw me having a few leaks, but I stripped it down, put it back together and now no issues. ANYHOW......never got a chance to play with it until last weekend. As far as I can tell, the gun functioned flawlessly. Now, I play mostly open group, and I do my best to only shoot single trigger mechanical guns. My old faithful is my Empire Resurrection. I expect to have to place my shots a little better, and with better players, I have to work a little harder to hold a lane, but ultimately I can almost always hold my own. That being said.....this Minimag with a bone stock trigger is......well it sucks. I really had a hard time getting any kind of ROF going. I think it worked properly, I just didn't like it. I don't have plans to upgrade the valve, and even the old level 7 served me just fine....but that trigger.

    Any suggestions???

  2. #2
    Ya look into a rt on off with a .750 length pin it will lighten up the trigger a bit and look into a benchmark single trigger frame I love the fat steel triggers they make the trigger pull feel easier too, since you like your single trigger frames. Even keeping it mostly bone stock id look into a barrel too some brass barrels are very nice or even a docs adapter for cocker barrels and find a nice short carbon fiber barrel. But that's just my thought.

  3. #3
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    What are you wanting to do with the trigger?

    A RT will lighten the phll, but the snappiness is more to the design of the gun than the trigger itself.

    I personally curl my fingertip in, so that i am pushing the trigger rather than pulling it. Its hard to explain but find something that works for you.

    A double trigger will give you mechanical leverage which will make it easier to shoot fawter and long strings.

    Lastly, do not treat the mag like a ressurection. 2 totally different beasts. Treat it more like a separate discipline in how you play. Like mech vs electro or even mech vs pump. Since this is your first time with the mag, it takes a more than 1 game to get a groove with it.

  4. #4
    I do rt on/offs on all my classic valves.
    The single-trigger benchy frame is a little "mushier" than the classic cf frame, but does "feel" a little lighter.

    I find it much easier to do ropes with my cockers than mags. I think of playing with a mech mag like playing pump, but without having to pump. I'm a pump guy at heart and so bring out the mags when I'm being lazy or consistently outgunned. I only bring out the cockers when it's my job to throw ropes an entire game. And I don't own an electro.

  5. #5
    Only 3 replies, but you ALL hit exactly the points I had been thinking about myself.

    The gun itself has the UL body and I'm using a Dye Ultralight 16". It was dead nuts accurate even with field paint. Every bit as much as the Rez. Both I feel are exceptional. As for double trigger.....I like single triggers. It's just a thing. No real reason, I just like em.

    As for "what do I want from the trigger?" ...good question. I don't know exactly. I just know I couldn't put together any real ROF. With the Rez, I can't lay down 15 to 20 ball ropes, but I CAN certainly pop off 3 round bursts with a good finger twitch no problem. As bowcycle said, don't treat the mag like the Rez. That may be the key here. Without upgrading the whole gun and making it a beast, I may just have to get used to it. ...which is another good point. Only one day, so I'm certainly not "used to it" yet. ...and saying it's like a pump? That's exactly how I felt with it. ...which is cool too though....as I refuse to play accuracy by volume ball, which is what I feel the sport has become. I've been looking at building a pump gun, and perhaps the mag will just take that roll.

    Again, gun was great, and I had fun rebuilding and playing. Shot some peeps out and got lots of thumbs up from the older guys and weird looks from the kids! ...anyhow...quick pic. Nothing fancy...which is how i like it.
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  6. #6
    Ok so you have a ule body Automag regardless on what the classic valve has laser engraved on it minimag Automag or micromag they are the same the body of the gun is what makes it a minimag Automag or micromag. The frame can be switched out with almost any Mag frame and some other frames if modded. What I see your looking for is a lighter more poppy trigger which will come from the rt on off but I'd try out another frame that's aluminum to have a smoother flow cause the carbon fiber frame your using is a lil sticky I have 3 on a few mags of mine but if you have the money to throw at your Mag Luke's custom makes one of my most favorite single trigger frames and can install a trex pneumatic trigger system to make the trigger as light as any electro marker frame. Kam m86 frames are super nice too would love to get my hands on one, one day. But benchmark frame dye frames and grip stick frames are beloved too and aren't nearly as expensive either

  7. #7
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    Automags have a learning curve when shooting. Take your time and learn to shoot it in it's current configuration before taking any giant steps in modding it...it takes money that you may later decide you shouldn't have spent. The trigger takes a little getting used to.

  8. #8
    Yeah, I call it a Minimag, but I do realize without the body it's just a mag. I'm into cars, and a lot of us in the hobby live and die by the VIN tag. Even if you strip every identifying part off of it.....it still is what it was born as. ....so to me, it's still a Minimag!

    Thanks for all the input guys. ...for now....I'm gonna keep playing with it and get used to it!

  9. #9
    Cyco-Dude Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Abubaca View Post
    So I joined a few months back when I picked up a really cheap, bone stock Minimag or CL. Cleaned it top to bottom, put in a new O-ring kit, and topped it off with a UL body. Last post saw me having a few leaks, but I stripped it down, put it back together and now no issues. ANYHOW......never got a chance to play with it until last weekend. As far as I can tell, the gun functioned flawlessly. Now, I play mostly open group, and I do my best to only shoot single trigger mechanical guns. My old faithful is my Empire Resurrection. I expect to have to place my shots a little better, and with better players, I have to work a little harder to hold a lane, but ultimately I can almost always hold my own. That being said.....this Minimag with a bone stock trigger is......well it sucks. I really had a hard time getting any kind of ROF going. I think it worked properly, I just didn't like it. I don't have plans to upgrade the valve, and even the old level 7 served me just fine....but that trigger.

    Any suggestions???
    either get a double-trigger frame, or, if you really want to keep the single frame, you can swap the classic on/off with an rt on/off for a slightly easier trigger pull. it's not hard to fire, you just need to get a full release and get used to how they shoot. the stock automag with carbon single-trigger frame is kind of a stiff pull, but like a lot of people have already said, the rt on/off may be the ticket here.
    Last edited by Cyco-Dude; 09-18-2016 at 11:18 AM.

  10. #10
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    also if you just rebuilt it the o rings will break in eventually and it will ease up a small amount.

  11. #11
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    Once you get the feel of the trigger pull, you should be able to consistently get 6 - 8 bps with the single trigger. The RT on-off will lighten the pull from about 8 lbs to about 4 lbs. Shimming the side of the trigger will make it feel more crisp as well.

    I used an original metal mag single trigger frame for years with my Automag68. I got used to laying my index finger along the body and pulling the trigger with my middle finger. I found that it helped my pointing speed for accurate snap shooting and I could maintain pretty good trigger speed when needed.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  12. #12
    I hesitate to say this, and it'd cost you if you did it, but you might prefer an RT style valve with a ULT instead of the classic valve. There's only so much you can do to smooth out or lessen the trigger pull on an AM/MM valve. Yeah, an RT on/off would help and is an inexpensive solution, but it's still not quite what it sounds like you're after. Don't get me wrong, though, I love me an old classic mag, but the trigger pull is simply not its best future. It'll never feel smooth like a nice slider trigger on a cocker. Nature of the beast.

    IMO, the most pleasant feeling trigger pull ever in a mag requires the following ingredients: an X-Valve, a ULT, and a single trigger Benchmark frame with a solid aluminum trigger. A setup like that will get you that smoothness and lightness you want. Plus, it's a REALLY short pull. Shooting ropes will be much easier.
    Last edited by ghost flanker; 09-20-2016 at 12:55 AM.

  13. #13
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    No, I'll disagree. Lightness is more of the application of leverage, and a double trigger will get you that. Longer the lever the easier it is to pull. And Benchmark frames are sloppy and the safety is horrible. I don't know how many times the safety slide in while trying to fire.

    Remember this is a mag not a ressurection. Short and snappy is the dogma. My Ripper bodied all ID ressurection is a dream to shoot, so i know exactly where you are coming from, yet for you who has extremely limited time behind a mag trigger, you need to shoot it. Hell even just wasting air in the backyard would help you get used to it. Maybe its me, but to me every gun i shoot i shoot with the gun not trying to shoot a focker like a mag or a mag like an electro, or even a classic valve to a RT/Xvalve.

    RT on/off with a .740 pin is what you want.

  14. #14
    With a single trigger, ULT is where it's at. Stock RT on/offs do lend themselves strongly to double triggers, though they still aren't as light. That being said, single triggers on mech guns are my thing. Always has been and always will be. Judging by Abubaca's original post, he's the same way. He's not going to be interested in a double trigger. That's why I made the suggestion to get a ULT.

    Regarding Benchmark frames, I held off from buying one for a looong time because of what I read about the infamous side-to-side slop in the trigger. But once I tried it for myself, I realized it didn't bother me one bit. Yes, the slop is definitely there, especially when the gun is not pressurized, but I do not notice it in the slightest bit while I'm actually playing and firing the gun. And with a Hogue grip and a matte textured solid aluminum trigger, it is super comfy and a joy to shoot. That's what really matters, right?

    And as far as the safety sliding in on its own during play, I've never once experienced that. However, I do prefer the traditional safeties on stock AGD frames because I like to push the safety off with my trigger finger rather than have to pull the safety out with my left hand. It's whatever, though...a small gripe.

    Sure, mags aren't resurrections or anything else. But if Abubaca knows he likes a smoother, faster single trigger, then the ULT makes perfect sense. And it'll still be 100% mag, albeit short and light instead of short and snappy, but I've never been dogmatic anyway.
    Last edited by ghost flanker; 09-20-2016 at 09:05 AM.

  15. #15
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    Ah, but he has a classic valve, and ULTs do not work at all with them. If he had a X valve or similar, then a ULT would be a strong choice in getting the pull smoother, but he doesn't and its a non-factor.

  16. #16
    There might be some confusion going on between us here. I thought you meant an RT style valve with a stock on/off for some reason. My suggestion, on the other hand, was to get an RT style valve that could accept a ULT. But if he doesn't have the $200+ to buy in to the 15 ounce pull club, then yeah, it's a non-factor like you said, and the next best thing would be to invest in an RT on/off as a $25 drop-in upgrade to his classic valve for a 4 lb. pull.
    Last edited by ghost flanker; 09-20-2016 at 05:53 PM.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cyco-Dude View Post
    you just need to get a full release and get used to how they shoot.
    Which is the opposite of a cocker, where you need to be sure and make a full pull of the trigger. That's often the hard part for someone used to cockers.

    I would vote for an RT on/off also.

  18. #18
    Guys I appreciate all the responses. .....just a thought, but what about an X valve with the classic single trigger frame? Is that doable? Is the "RT" action harder to get a handle on without the leverage of a double trigger? I'm not totally against the double trigger, but my preference would be to keep it single if possible. I only played with an RT trigger one time, WAY back when they were new. It was cool, and I remember loving it, but honestly it's been so long....I hardly remember it. I'm not made of money, but the X valve is still way cheaper than the PE Ethas that my son and wife play with, so it's not out of the question.

  19. #19
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    Even with firing one finger, because of the extra room in the trigger guard of an Intelliframe or other double trigger frame, you will be able to fire faster.



  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Abubaca View Post
    Guys I appreciate all the responses. .....just a thought, but what about an X valve with the classic single trigger frame? Is that doable? Is the "RT" action harder to get a handle on without the leverage of a double trigger? I'm not totally against the double trigger, but my preference would be to keep it single if possible.
    The single frames work well. I prefer the AGD single trigger frame on RT's and x-valves. Stock valves are too stiff to walk easily on a long trigger. It's not a pneumag or electronic walk at least, more like a low pull and high pull. I prefer the shorter trigger travel to the sensitivity and travel of the longer trigger. If I'm not RT'ing, I prefer the single trigger even more. Some people actually like the long trigger for ordinary semi shooting though, often using their middle finger.

    An x-valve on a single frame with your selected amount of bounce is a tasty machine.

  21. #21
    An x-valve on a single frame with your selected amount of bounce is a tasty machine.
    That sounds tempting ...I may give that a shot! ....and I figure I can always add the double trigger if I'm so inclined.

  22. #22
    X-Valve FTW!

    If you go the X-Valve route, I still recommend a ULT on/off assembly over the RT on/off assembly for a single trigger setup.

  23. #23
    If you go the X-Valve route, I still recommend a ULT on/off assembly over the RT on/off assembly for a single trigger setup.
    Interesting that you say that. Keep in mind I have NO practical experience with it either way. I would think that a heavier trigger would be easier to sweet spot. Again.....no experience...may totally be the opposite.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Abubaca View Post
    I would think that a heavier trigger would be easier to sweet spot.
    That's true, but there's two parts to that. First is how much you want to play with RT bounce; some people think it has no place on the field today. Second, a ULT can bounce, but it takes a while longer for everything to wear in and for you to get used to it. A high output tank that bounces a stock RT on/off pretty hard may bounce a ULT just a little. Blend your valve condition, bottle reg, and on/off to match your frame and trigger finger.

  25. #25
    An RT on/off with a shaved down pin and a Ninja SHP can do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yb2OOl21bdE

    ...and at 1250 psi (using an old school Armageddon reg), it can do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saIsaOj11K0

    On the other hand, a ULT on/off with 4 or 5 shims and a Ninja SHP can do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3HIh3JytP2E

    The ULT may or may not bounce quite as readily as an RT on/off (and certainly not as fast), but it is much more controllable than an RT on/off. I find it rather difficult to pull off single shots with bouncy RTs. You really have to deliberately release the trigger to make single shots. Otherwise, you'll unintentionally double fire, or fire on the trigger release like an Autoresponse frame. RT bounce can be really touchy and difficult to control, even with full length pins, and I don't find them to be the most pleasant setup to shoot.

    By the way, I do not use these rates of fire during walk-on games. No way. I'm not down with scaring rental players away from paintball for the rest of their lives. The ULT bounce...meh...I would use it in speedball against a full team of electros, but I wouldn't use super RT bounce to rain down 25 bps on any living thing. That's for backyard shenanigans, only.
    Last edited by ghost flanker; 10-17-2016 at 03:14 PM.

  26. #26
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    With a bouncy RT (pressure <1000), you can pull all the way through, and release quickly for a single shot. It can be hard to tap or creep up on a single shot.

    As you lower the input pressure, the RT rate tends to go down. I tend to figure 800 psi will be around 12 bps (if you can catch it), 950 is about 14-15 bps, 1100 around 20. When you hit the pressure where you have to really hunt for the bounce, you can kick it in when you try just with your finger pull, otherwise it's a semi. The Steyr AUG is actually designed that way on the trigger operation.

  27. #27
    As for ROF....RT trigger, electronic double trigger, ramping....I admit it's not necessary. -BUT....it's here...and doesn't appear to be going anywhere. My preference would be to have an easy to control, low ROF bounce. My goal was never modern day rates of fire, but rather to augment a trigger I didn't care for. If a modest bounce gets me 10-12 and I can control it.....bingo. .....I imagine that the bounce, even if I can't sweet spot, would give me the trigger I'm hoping for. I was talking to the tech guy at the shop, and he's pretty sure my Ninja tank is a little over 850, but we're gonna actually measure and see.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Abubaca View Post
    As for ROF....RT trigger, electronic double trigger, ramping....I admit it's not necessary. -BUT....it's here...and doesn't appear to be going anywhere. My preference would be to have an easy to control, low ROF bounce. My goal was never modern day rates of fire, but rather to augment a trigger I didn't care for. If a modest bounce gets me 10-12 and I can control it.....bingo. .....I imagine that the bounce, even if I can't sweet spot, would give me the trigger I'm hoping for. I was talking to the tech guy at the shop, and he's pretty sure my Ninja tank is a little over 850, but we're gonna actually measure and see.
    Xvalve and take the on/off pin and with a digital set of calipers measure it. Then with file, slowly take it down. Reinstall and test it with the tank. Some people are fine with stock, myself i like it right around .720 pin. This has the basic principle as a ULT trigger but simplier in use. I wouod go down and test every .005 till you find a good balance between reactivity and bounce.

    Doing this, you set the valve to the tank. No need to set up the tank to the valve, no need for pressure testing, or anything like that. It works for single, double, or any reactive trigger.

  29. #29
    Guys, thanks for all the replies. ....I'll keep you updated as to what's happening.

  30. #30
    Soooo a funny thing happened. Played a good 4 hours with the Mag today, still with the classic valve....and I had an awesome day. Maybe it was the new o rings all settling in....maybe it was my new Empire jersey helping me look good....maybe it was just that I needed a few solid games where I was a contributing factor to win after win, and the Mag was in my hands. Maybe I just needed a little confidence. I used the .680 barrel from the Resurrection, and it was threading needles. I may play with it this way for a good bit before I pull the trigger on that X valve.

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