Fitting an intelliframe

[Systemx]

there are no issues in having the safety. you will need to remove the trigger though which can be a pain in aluminum frames (you need to press out / tap out the trigger pin). take whatever you know about autocockers and set it aside, as it has no use with automags lol. also, those barrel o-rings are toast man...get some new ones on there, and a new plastic nubbin. the barrel is from check it, if you were wondering.

Ok cool, lol I'll forget my WGP roots then... I figured that the o rings need changing on that barrel and it has a metal type detent. Quick question are those check it barrels any good? And would you happen to know what bore are they are?

[athomas]

Ok I see they are cheap enough, aside from the obvious reasons is there any other benefit to refitting a saftey? I only ask this because back in the day we always used to remove them from our cockers that had slide frames due to it giving a smoother trigger pull.

Safety is only a safety on a mag. It doesn't affect the actual trigger pull at all. It does give you a position from which to adjust the trigger rod.

[Cyco-Dude]

Ok cool, lol I'll forget my WGP roots then... I figured that the o rings need changing on that barrel and it has a metal type detent. Quick question are those check it barrels any good? And would you happen to know what bore are they are?

try it out and see. bores for twistlock barrels are typically around .691, from what i've measured. so overbored, but no big deal. automags fire from an open bolt instead of a closed bolt like on an autococker, so the nubbin will keep the ball in place. you don't have to worry so much about it. one option you can do, though, is to get a docs automag to autococker adapter. that way you can make use of your autococker barrels. not necessary, but just an idea...

[Spider-TW]

and a new plastic nubbin. the barrel is from check it, if you were wondering.

Keep the wire detent handy until you are sure the plastic nubbins will work for you. Some of the grooves in the aftermarket barrels don't actually match the layout of the plastic nubbins (AGD spec), and the barrel can be too tight of a fit to let the plastic nubbin hang out of the groove. When all of the nubbins were wire, the groove side-shape didn't really matter, so some barrels just had "similar" grooves. I almost threw away my wire detents, but I have barrels that need them.

[Systemx]

Ok so I got my parts in the mail today from Tuna (thanks again) I have followed the LV10 set up guide and I am using the carrier with 2 lines on it and the gold (short) spring. The marker does not leak down the barrel or otherwise and it does shoot and cycle more quickly than it did previously, however when I try to rapid fire it still 'chuffs' occasionally. It's clearly still not right any ideas anyone?

[Laku]

Ok so I got my parts in the mail today from Tuna (thanks again) I have followed the LV10 set up guide and I am using the carrier with 2 lines on it and the gold (short) spring. The marker does not leak down the barrel or otherwise and it does shoot and cycle more quickly than it did previously, however when I try to rapid fire it still 'chuffs' occasionally. It's clearly still not right any ideas anyone?

Does the bolt return or does it stick?

Chuff could also be just that your trigger discipline is failing and you don't completely pull or release the trigger. Or it could be the lvl 10 preventing chop.

[Systemx]

Ok it's being dry fired but if I was a betting man it sounds like the bolt is still sticking? Do I need to try a different carrier? If so which one?
I took a video of it shooting take a look
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ikdakacqv5...%2040.mp4?dl=0

[Laku]

Ok it's being dry fired but if I was a betting man it sounds like the bolt is still sticking? Do I need to try a different carrier? If so which one?

If it sticks then the the bolt won't return. I'd leave the carrier that you are using for now (it's anyway the largest you have). Try it first with paint/reballs and see what it does.

It could also be that your field strip screw is little loose and allows some movement on the valve which then misaligns with the body causing stick. One indication of this is if the bolt unsticks when you push from the back of the valve.

[Systemx]

Ok the bolt is returning as it shoots when you pull the trigger again, I have adjusted the trigger rod leaving a credit cards width between it and the trigger. If that is the largest carrier it's strange as when I used the others earlier on they leaked? I'll put some paint through it and see what happens.

[Laku]

2 lines is 2.0 carrier, And I think that's the largest you ordered from Tuna? From largest to smallest: Dot and line is 1.5, Line is 1.0, dot is 0.5 and nothing is 0.

[Systemx]

Ok thanks for the info on the carriers it's good to know, did you have a chance to look at the video?

[Laku]

Ok thanks for the info on the carriers it's good to know, did you have a chance to look at the video?

Hah, totally missed it when I first read this from my mobile. But that definitely looks like you're not letting the trigger forward enough, it'll do chuffs when you do that.

[Systemx]

Ok I'll work on it but the trigger just feels a bit clunky, I just figured that the Mag would shoot quicker than it does especially with the inteli frame? I take it all appears ok with the Mag apart from that? Also I cannot seem to get the reactive trigger working? The output pressure of my tank is 850psi which should be enough pressure?

[Laku]

It can shoot very fast if your fingers can keep up. Yeah, everything looks ok as far as I can tell from the video.

RT effect will come in time (at least for most of them it does) as the o-rings break in. Of course this also depends of the flow rate of your tank regulator and its output pressure (should be at least 800 psi ).

[Systemx]

Ok cool, I'll leave it as it is and persevere with it and try to get used to the trigger as it is quite unlike any other marker I own, I do have an amourgeddon air system kicking around with an SCI tank that needs a hydro test as I hear these are good for supplying 900-1000 psi to the valve, in case I can't get the R/T effect with my existing tank.

[athomas]

It sounds like it is starving for air. Make sure the on-off ASA pin is depressing the bottle pin properly. Too much or too little and it will starve the gun. You do need to make sure your finger fully releases the trigger each pull. The retro/X-valve should mostly eliminate that problem though due to the extra return force. Make sure your velocity is turned up far enough.

A bolt that is sticking just a bit could slow down the reset such that the valve doesn't have enough time to recharge before the next shot is attempted. It could be a carrier that is a bit too tight, but that would be rare for a 2.0 carrier to be too tight. You can try another powertube carrier oring and retune the level 10 to see if that is the problem.

Does the body sit down tight against the rail? If the pim on the bottom of the body is bottoming out in the rail, it could cause issues.

Does it have an issue when the gun is cycled with the barrel out? A barrel that isn't centered in the body could have an effect on the ability to cycle quickly. That can be remedied with a couple of wraps of tape to take up some of the slack.

[Systemx]

Hi athomas, I have a lot to check but I have now run out of air so until I refill my tanks on Sunday I'll have to wait. The body appears to be fitted correctly and I'll check it with the barrel removed. Any ideas on why the trigger feels clunky? Could it be an on off issue or a sear rod adjustment?

[athomas]

As long as the trigger is swinging free when the grip frame is by itself it should be fine. The trigger rod should be adjusted so that there is a tiny gap between the front of the rod and the back of the trigger when the trigger is held against the safety with the gun aired up. The grip frame may feel clunky if you are getting bolt stick. The bolt stick prevents the trigger rod from pushing forward right away.