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Thread: LcE90

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-TW View Post
    Would a single trigger version be a stretch?
    I'm clear on one project at a time, however, I would defiantly be a buyer of a single mag electronic frame! This my friend, would be a dream warp set up for my style of play. Kudos to you Luke.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stedspitcher View Post
    I'm clear on one project at a time, however, I would defiantly be a buyer of a single mag electronic frame! This my friend, would be a dream warp set up for my style of play. Kudos to you Luke.
    Yes, it has been a long time since anything was available with a single e-trigger. They were all big clunky things too, angels, vikings, rainmakers... a 3D machined single on a mag would be slick.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-TW View Post
    Yes, it has been a long time since anything was available with a single e-trigger. They were all big clunky things too, angels, vikings, rainmakers... a 3D machined single on a mag would be slick.
    I would prefer single over double. But if the double comes available and it's going to be awhile before the single version is out, I'll start with what's there.

  4. #34
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    Thats a pretty tall frame to be single trigger.

    Might look kind of.....
    "When injustice becomes law, resistance becomes duty." Thomas Jefferson

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by going_home View Post
    Thats a pretty tall frame to be single trigger.

    Might look kind of.....
    True. We'll have to see what comes to life.

  6. #36
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    The LcE90 is only .45" taller than the MV I dont really think it will be an issue.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    The LcE90 is only .45" taller than the MV I dont really think it will be an issue.
    If it was, I could use a duck bill on the bottom, or one of those weird wedges that guy makes.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by captian pinky View Post
    Do you/dye have enough membrane pads to make it for the long haul?
    There are currently thousands of these membrane pads available so we'll move forward with this design.

    If your worried about battery drain in storage all you have to do it remove the grip panel and pop off the battery snap.

  9. #39
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    Matt;

    I would give that membrane pad a hard second thought.

    Two small push buttons would be best,....

    Tap two holes and mount inside,....

    This is where the VER needed a change too late.

    Just my 2 cents,...


    On topic;

    Sharp looking lines on the guard and the bottom. Would like to see the inside!!!!
    _______________________
    Jai "P8ntbal4me" Menard

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by p8ntbal4me View Post
    Luke

    I would give that membrane pad a hard second thought.

    Two small push buttons would be best,....
    I've been searching Digikey and the internet for a viable option, lot's of little low profile buttons but I can't seem to find a viable solution. I would still like to go that route if I can find the right button. I even considered making a simple low profile switch board with a screw mount using easily attainable parts so they would be rebuild-able. (I have no idea where to even start down that road) There is room in the frame so that's a non issue, an easy change if I can find the right switches. I'm not an electronics guru so not knowing all the options and technical names limit my searches.

    On topic; Sharp looking lines on the guard and the bottom.
    Not sure if you mean sharp as in "nice" or sharp as in it needs a "heavier fillet"?

    If it's the latter, the rounded edges in the CAD drawing does not necessarily represent what will be manufactured. It's just limits in my CAD program that I have to work around, my program HATES fillets. I only add fillets to drawings if I'm showing a product to customers, I typically just leave them out and add them during manufacturing process. Anything "sharp" will be smoothed out in the end.


    Would like to see the inside!!!!
    It's coming, just want to test the engineering first.
    I'm glad I never returned your parts, I still intend to return them with an added bonus. Plus giving credit where credit is due.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by p8ntbal4me View Post
    Would like to see the inside!!!!
    Besides it being heavily ULE milled it's fairly typical for what you would expect to see, the only thing I'm keeping to myself at the moment is how I approached the trigger design and its relation to the micro switch.

  12. #42
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    In reference to the "sharp lines": I mean it looks clean and defined. Not some radii rabble and all over the place.


    In reference to the button type I would use in YOUR situation:
    OFF-MOMENTARY
    Threaded body with flange base

    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1664-ND/529502

    If I was going to do it RIGHT (complete new design), I would do as you originally posted above:

    Find a tactical snap action switch like this:
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...2TR-ND/1146840
    Make a simple PCB with the solder leads that could be hand soldered (no need for a board house)
    Use a small machine screw from the inside to hold the PCB in place

    For activating the switch,.. either button extensions or buttons with the extensions built in.
    There are hundreds of variations and some waterproof ones.

    I would venture into these buttons if it was not into production yet.

    And,.... I would use an optical trigger switch rather than a snap switch.

    Again,... this is all my 2 cents.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    Besides it being heavily ULE milled it's fairly typical for what you would expect to see, the only thing I'm keeping to myself at the moment is how I approached the trigger design and its relation to the micro switch.
    What size Capacitor did you use (uF)?

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by p8ntbal4me View Post
    In reference to the "sharp lines": I mean it looks clean and defined. Not some radii rabble and all over the place.
    Thanks.

    In reference to the button type I would use in YOUR situation:
    OFF-MOMENTARY
    Threaded body with flange base

    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...1664-ND/529502
    I did look into those, at a glance I didn't think there would be room because of the length. IIRC they are a little more than an inch long. My frame is shorter than yours so it's a little tighter on space, if there was room they would be perfect.



    If I was going to do it RIGHT (complete new design), I would do as you originally posted above:
    Find a tactical snap action switch like this:
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...2TR-ND/1146840
    Make a simple PCB with the solder leads that could be hand soldered (no need for a board house)
    Use a small machine screw from the inside to hold the PCB in place

    For activating the switch,.. either button extensions or buttons with the extensions built in.
    There are hundreds of variations and some waterproof ones.

    I would venture into these buttons if it was not into production yet.
    I was leaning towards the little tac switches but a suitable mounting system was the hangup.

    And,.... I would use an optical trigger switch rather than a snap switch.
    I've nailed the micro switch setup in the design so I'll go that route.

    Do you have any leads to get some simple boards made? I did some searches but didn't dig into very deep.
    Last edited by luke; 12-13-2016 at 11:31 AM.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by p8ntbal4me View Post
    What size Capacitor did you use (uF)?
    10000uf 10v

  16. #46
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    Pad2Pad for the PCB.

    What you need to do is find the parts you want to use, grab the schematic for the part,... and add them to the PCB design. Pretty simple stuff. Not hard at all.

    The capacitor your using will work. Good rate of fire with that one I have found.

    The optical switch is something that would take a bit of mounting work to be done. It needs a PCB to be done properly. IF.... they made one that was an axil mount like the OMRON snap switch,..... I would swap it out.

    If I was ever going to make a new frame,.... I would make a whole new board. It would take an optical switch input.

    My emag board as well as the AGD board can take an optical switch.

    All you really need is to ensure your board code takes and active high signal on the pin

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by p8ntbal4me View Post
    The optical switch is something that would take a bit of mounting work to be done. It needs a PCB to be done properly. IF.... they made one that was an axil mount like the OMRON snap switch,..... I would swap it out.

    If I was ever going to make a new frame,.... I would make a whole new board. It would take an optical switch input.

    My emag board as well as the AGD board can take an optical switch.

    All you really need is to ensure your board code takes and active high signal on the pin
    This is definitely not in my wheelhouse, I'll just have to stick with the D2F and UTB.

  18. #48
    Is this the spydermag frame we've been waiting on

  19. #49
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    No, those frames are no longer viable for parts..

  20. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    No, those frames are no longer viable for parts..
    Sorry been absent for a bit

  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by river031403 View Post
    Sorry been absent for a bit
    de nada

  22. #52
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    What board you going to have in it

  23. #53
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    Utb

  24. #54
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    So I went way deep down the rabbit hole, it only took 4 days of searching to find these little guys, it looks like we can bypass the membrane pads.

    Most of my other parts have arrived over the past few days, all I need to order are crimpers, terminal pins and housings and all that is from one vendor. I believe we have the details worked out on the order so hopefully I can get the order done tomorrow.

    I've made most if the design changes to accommodate these switches but needed them to do some testing to get the fitment correct. Once that's done I can get started on the programing to make the prototypes.


  25. #55
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    C&K makes the same button but with a larger head on it too.

    I use their switches for equipment automatikn

  26. #56
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    Yea the C&K was .663" tall and these are .615". The C&K is totally viable and can replace these if necessary. (Replacement options down the road.) I think the larger head is just an optional cap which I wont use on this.

  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke View Post
    So I went way deep down the rabbit hole, it only took 4 days of searching to find these little guys, it looks like we can bypass the membrane pads.

    Most of my other parts have arrived over the past few days, all I need to order are crimpers, terminal pins and housings and all that is from one vendor. I believe we have the details worked out on the order so hopefully I can get the order done tomorrow.

    I've made most if the design changes to accommodate these switches but needed them to do some testing to get the fitment correct. Once that's done I can get started on the programing to make the prototypes.

    Looks good.

  28. #58
    Keep on sweating those details!

    I'll want one of these for sure

  29. #59
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    Now's the time to do it.

  30. #60
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    So do you have a estimated price point on these Luke?

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