EVO E-Mag only wants to belnd paint

[flampaint]

So I finished my EVO build and went to my local field today: I was a bit disappointed as this thing was breaking at least 9 out of 10 balls.

The valve (RT Pro) was runnning fine as a standard emag before (same frame)
Detents are new
Barrel sizing was perfect for the paint (was shooting my autococker with the same barrel and had no issues at all)

I tried turning the fps way down and then slowly work my way up - that didnt work either

Any ideas as to what could be causing this? Could it be the detents?
I'm clueless on this one...

If anyone knows what could be causing this I would be very thankful if you could share it here.
Thanks!

[maniacmechanic]

detents ??

[renie]

check how far you detents are wound in, they only need to be nipped up and not squash the oring too much.

[Nobody]

Check feedneck for any obstructions, any possible jagged edges.

When the paint breaks, is it in the breech or in the barrel?

Check the detent depth. Try running with one detent, then add in the 2nd one.

Check the L10 kit.

Check dwell of board and board settings.

[athomas]

Hopper pushing paint past detent? Small paint plus strong hopper may cause issues.

[flampaint]

Hopper pushing paint past detent? Small paint plus strong hopper may cause issues.

That sounds plausible, specially because I was running a borrowed Rotor on which i hadn't turned the tension down all the way. I'll look into that! (duh, could've thought about it myself too...)
Thanks!

[flampaint]

Check feedneck for any obstructions, any possible jagged edges.

When the paint breaks, is it in the breech or in the barrel?

Check the detent depth. Try running with one detent, then add in the 2nd one.

Check the L10 kit.

Check dwell of board and board settings.

Feedneck and setting are all good. It was definitely breaking in the barrel (clean bolt/breech) - so that reinforces the theory about the hopper pushing paint past the detents. The paint was fairly small (I was using a .684 insert and it was still rolling through with ease - so not really a "snug fit")

[flampaint]

check how far you detents are wound in, they only need to be nipped up and not squash the oring too much.

Yup, they're set up just right. No super-small /thin oring either (which could IMHO also lead to potentially turning them in too far)

[flampaint]

detents ??

Yes, detents. Please let me enlighten you

[BigEvil]

Any time anyone has paint breaking issues these days always suspect the paint. Paint these days is god-awful. However since you said it shot out of other guns ok then there is definitely an issue.

Emag right? What are your electronic settings?

[flampaint]

Any time anyone has paint breaking issues these days always suspect the paint. Paint these days is god-awful. However since you said it shot out of other guns ok then there is definitely an issue.

Emag right? What are your electronic settings?

Yup the paint was OK for sure. I'll have to check the settings and will post here once I have them.
As for the Rotor: i took it apart and the tension adjustment was set to max (Dye R1) - so I turned out the screw as far as possible in order to reduce tension to the max. I'll give it a try later today and I'll be back here with a full report

[BigEvil]

I suspect trigger bounce is stalling your system...

[flampaint]

So, I just went through an entire hopper without breaking a single paintball - all I did was reduve the Rotor's tension to the lowest setting. So, it seems that the rotor was simply pushing at least one or two paintballs past the detents, thus causing the constant barrel breaks... duh...
thanks for the input everyone!

For completeness' sake, these are my settings (XMOD Beta 1.8 board):
Semi mode
ROF 14
ACE OFF (duh)
FIX 45
DWELL 11
Trigger ACE sensitivity fully functional and reading out where I want it to be along the trigger's trajectory

Thanks!

[BigEvil]

Your FIX is WAY high but that shouldn't be the problem,... but you dwell is VERY low. Raise it to 20.

[flampaint]

Your FIX is WAY high but that shouldn't be the problem,... but you dwell is VERY low. Raise it to 20.

will do! thanks

I actually based my settings off the Niedtech "bounce table" (Excel file where you can input your desired dwell)

Is there another type of "standard" setting which works best for most applications (obviously there's not going to be THE only true one but something which is more or less broadly usable in most situations?)

[athomas]

Dwell is a setting that has to take into consideration the time to pull in the solenoid plus the time for the bolt to completely cycle from start to fully reset. A short dwell may still fire the gun, but you risk releasing the sear too soon causing the bolt to rub on it as it resets. This can cause wear and may sometimes result in bolt stick in some cases. Testing has revealed that you should have at least 15ms of dwell for most setups. You can sometimes get away with less, but you should have some safety margin built in for those unexpected slow bolt response times due to dirt or gummed up mechanism. 20ms gives you that guarantee that your gun will fire under all normal conditions without any issues and give you that margin of safety built in.

[djinnform]

My Evo works great in the garage so far. Old Grafitti paint. Shot a full Dye Rotor full.


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[BigEvil]

Dwell is a setting that has to take into consideration the time to pull in the solenoid plus the time for the bolt to completely cycle from start to fully reset. A short dwell may still fire the gun, but you risk releasing the sear too soon causing the bolt to rub on it as it resets. This can cause wear and may sometimes result in bolt stick in some cases. Testing has revealed that you should have at least 15ms of dwell for most setups. You can sometimes get away with less, but you should have some safety margin built in for those unexpected slow bolt response times due to dirt or gummed up mechanism. 20ms gives you that guarantee that your gun will fire under all normal conditions without any issues and give you that margin of safety built in.

This also happens when you set the ROF too high and try to out shoot what the solenoid can do. Blender city.

[athomas]

Yeah, but ROF affects the bolt open time (bolt in the reset state) more than the solenoid-bolt interaction. The shorter bolt open time then directly affects the ability to recharge and you have all sorts of issues with ball mashing due to half charged shots.

[djinnform]

first day of use on the field, shot great until it got darker and colder, then it started to blend, but i find that mags like it hot

[flampaint]

I too can now confirm that I am having zero issues anymore. My problem was the tension-setting on my rotor which was pushing paintballs past the detents...
So all's good!