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Thread: X Valve Trigger problem.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Cottonwood, Az.
    Posts
    8,183
    Quote Originally Posted by Tunaman View Post
    This is why trigger stops are not recommended in an automag. All mags require a full pull and full release to operate correctly. Premature sear and bolt wear will occur with trigger stops.
    Agreed (If done improperly). I believe TK stated many years ago that trigger stops in and of themselves weren't the problem as much as people getting the adjustments wrong. (Which reflects poorly on the product and is totally understandable)

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    3,555
    Quote Originally Posted by Tunaman View Post
    Premature sear and bolt wear will occur with trigger stops.
    I can see this on pre-travel adjustment, but how is it an issue on post travel, as long as the sear clears the bolt? The on/off pin should be closed before that point anyway. Pre-travel tends to defeat the "credit card gap behind the trigger" trigger rod setup.

    I suppose you can set them up to cause damage, or not, but it's not the stop that kills bolts, it's the person using them.

    Those old Dye two fingers can use a big pre-travel screw on them. They just flop around.

    ***

    doh! stupid page 2!

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Hogans Alley
    Posts
    6
    I was told this is a brand new X Valve, so it may just need some breaking in?

    Tuna, I'll try the wrench tomorrow, and get back to you.

    Luke, No I don't have any trigger stops.

    I originally thought I was just short stroking it but it only happens after a bust of RT fire, if I finish the trigger press it stops firing completely, the trigger still pushes the on/off, but nothing happens.

    I have played with carriers and O Rings but I only get leaks, I currently have the blank carrier, no dots or lines. That's the only one that doesn't leak at some point.

    I've tried tight fitting O rings and loose ones on the on/off piston, no change in function, the loose ones RT faster. (forgive my terminology)

    I've smoothed out the seer ramp and the rim on the bolt to hopefully let it retract easier, there was little change. (2000 grit sand paper lightly by hand)

    I'll be taking another crack at it tomorrow, wish me luck.
    Feedback as Fancyfingers
    MCB 28/0/0 PBN 34/0/0

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    Make sure you use the same oring when you change carriers. It is the oring you are adjusting the tension on, using the different carriers. It is rare that you are using carrier size 0. Its usually 1.0 or 1.5 that most are using. I have seen a few smaller, but it is more rare. Maybe your orings are a bit more loose on the inside diameter.
    Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Hogans Alley
    Posts
    6
    I tried several different carriers with the same O ring, then grabbed a different O ring a repeated the process a couple times and always ended on the same result.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Halifax, N.S., Canada
    Posts
    8,039
    Is the bolt rubbing anywhere in the body? You can tell if there are wear marks where the bolt goes through the hole in the body. Are you using the correct screw to install the grip frame? If it is too long, it will prevent the body from being held tight against the rail. Make sure the pim on the bottom of the body isn't bottoming out in the rail. That will cause the same issue. Make sure the field strip screw isn't too long as well. Same issue.

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