pneumag frame for sale (sleeper Dye NT frame) SOLD

[rawbutter]

Dye NT sleeper pneumag frame

$225 shipped SOLD



Specs:
- Dye NT frame (with internal milling)
- MAC-33 solenoid valve
- Clippard SM-6 piston, shortened and modified
- WGP “Outkast” LPR
- Proto on/off ASA with bleed
- new tool-less grips
- special LPR key and body screw included

This is my second NT pneumag frame, and I’ve improved a few aspects of the design from the first. (The mounting bracket and safety are better, in particular.) Instead of using a rod to link the trigger to the valve, I attached a bracket to the back of the trigger that reaches down to activate the MAC-33. In the end, this is simpler than the trigger rod method. There are no random pieces you have to worry about losing if you ever take it apart. There are no holes drilled in the trigger guard. And all the important stuff happens behind the bearings, so the trigger is adjustable.

I really have to stop and say how nice that is. Most pneumags don’t have adjustable triggers. The trigger needs to be where it is to hit the rod correctly. Otherwise it won’t work, or the safety won’t work. But this trigger can go forward or backward by adjusting two set screws.

And, of course, this is a Dye frame, so it’s light and comfortable. It uses a MAC-33 solenoid valve, which has less travel and faster recharge than the usual Fabco MSV-2. The on/off ASA works well. The safety is homebuilt, and it does travel a little more than I’d prefer, but it works well. And I recently acquired a mill, so the internal cuts look pretty nice (and they’re completely hidden when you install the grips).

This frame does have two issues worth noting.

1. It’s too long for a classic length rail. I mean, you could use it with a classic rail, but you won’t have space for a foregrip. So I recommend an RT length rail.

2. The top of the frame too shallow for a twist-lock assembly, so you will need to use a ULE body. I can modify it to work with a classic body, if that’s really a deal breaker for you, but it won’t be as pretty.

Installation should be easy. You only need to remove the trigger arm from your sear, bolt this onto your Automag, and fiddle with the LPR level a little. I’ll include a special, shorter body screw to match the frame, and you can use your standard field strip screw for the back. I will also send you a link to a video “user’s manual” that I’ve put on YouTube.

[rawbutter]

I forgot to mention that the valve mounting bracket turned out a little thicker than I'd like. The grips fit over it easily, but not flush to the frame (at least not near the trigger), and if you look straight on from the front, you can see the bracket. I don't think this is a big deal, but I just wanted to point it out.

Also, the safety sticks a little, but it works well, and I think it should loosen up with use.

And I've got a shooting video:

[fiforever]

Free up, that's quality. I am almost complete with my first build and I can totally appreciate your hard work on this. Looks fantastic!

[djinnform]

love it

[ScoobyD]

Do you have any pics with the grips on from the front to see that gap you were talking about

[rawbutter]

Do you have any pics with the grips on from the front to see that gap you were talking about

Look at the last attached picture. You can see the aluminum bracket between the grips and the frame if you look carefully. The gap is small, but it's there, so I wanted to be honest about it.

[rawbutter]

Sold

[ScoobyD]

Do you plan on making anymore

[rawbutter]

Probably, but parts for these are hard to find. Especially the frame.

[rawbutter]

But I could also put the same internals inside something more common, like an Intelliframe? It wouldn't look the same, but it would shoot the same.

[ScoobyD]

Understandable but on an nt frame is sweet. I wouldnt mind trying to build one myself on any frame just don't know how it works and what I need.