Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: warp feed style detent setup

  1. #1

    warp feed style detent setup

    If anyone has an x-mag could you be so kind to tell me where the detent is in relation to the center of the paint inside the breech? I know the detent is on top, I'm not sure as to how far it is from the centerline of the ball location. I have a warp feed left project that might work if I get a detent setup properly. thanks to anyone that can help, -Rickenmag22.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    771
    I can't check this second, but what are you trying to do? Add a second detent?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Soon to be the Dirty jErZ
    Posts
    8,910
    Same as the centerfeed....

  4. #4
    I already made a classic body warp feed, problem is the docs automag barrel adapter is stuck inside it, I was hoping I could install a detent on top of the body, just like the x mag warp left breech is set up.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    105
    You could use the lightest loc-tite on a barrel you don't much care for, let it dry into the adapter and take them out?

    Is it seized in the body? The barrel retention thing is pressed into the rail, meaning the adapter would slide out if you remove the body from the rail, assuming it's not seized?

    Jim
    yes, i could have purchased something new for the same money.

  6. #6
    I'm pretty sure it's seized, I'm thinking it would be easier to just get an xmag then restore it. I love the classic rt, but I don't even know if a ball detent will work?

  7. #7
    Is there anyone else that could help or give advice?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    901
    So just to make sure. You have removed the rail and tried to get the adapter out?

  9. #9
    yes, I have tried.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Cottonwood, Az.
    Posts
    6,906
    Not sure why rickenmag didn't share the full story but the RT has been incorrectly modified. The neck was welded with the adapter in place, and looking at the amount of heat used I suspect that he welded the adapter permanently inside the body. I'm also curious if you get bolt stick because I'm sure the body is warped too.

    I think the body is scrap metal.

    This is from his PBN thread.




  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    2,428
    That body looks worse than the one that sold on eBay last week. RIP AutomagRT body.........

  12. #12
    Thanks for everyone's help 🙁

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Inception Designs HQ
    Posts
    2,304
    Quote Originally Posted by rickenmag22 View Post
    Thanks for everyone's help ��
    Help? You didn't give the full story, nor how far you progressed on your own BEFORE you did anything. We are not miracle workers, we can not read what isn't said. There is a wealth of knowledge here, but if you can not make a clear, concise question on what you want, how to do it and if it is possible; no one can tell you the magic formula.

    I see heat warping, mislignment and distortion. It migh have been easier to section and turn the feedneck portion, but i do not have a powerfeed body to see if that is feasible.

    Looking at the pic, yes 99% sure that the body is scrap. More so, the idea of retro-fitting a detent from a ULE body would not work. There is not enough meat in that type of body to hold it. Even if you could thread it, i am sure that the bolt would rip out the detent when you sboot it. Thus hastening it going to the scrap pile.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    southern IL
    Posts
    2,428
    Quote Originally Posted by rickenmag22 View Post
    Thanks for everyone's help ��
    Most everyone here is willing to help. Sometimes that help sadly is to give options for round 2 on a trial when round 1 is beyond feasible repair. Short of running a bore in that body to clean it up. It looks dead. Round 2 could involve brazing instead of a welder. What your plan was has been done. I actually think by Luke. But you can use a welder on a mag body and not expect it to warp.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •