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Thread: Bolt Scraping Inside Of Body

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Paso Robles, CA
    Posts
    663

    Bolt Scraping Inside Of Body

    So I was playing with one of my mags this past weekend and I came across an issue where it wouldn't fire, ultimately i figured out it was a problem with the lv 10 bolt/sear.
    When I disassembled my mag I noticed the bolt had been scraping the inside of the ULE and "chipping away" at the inside of the ULE, today I got one of my pump mags with a Gearheads Helios body on it and found out it had the same scraping/marking but not as severe.
    I changed my bolts and sears on both and it seemed to fix the issue(s) I was having, just curious if anyone else had this issue and what can you do to prevent this issue, as Ii have a few high end bodies I'd prefer this not happening to.
    I suppose the general answer of "check your bolt and sear constantly" works , but any other advice?
    Also when I tighten my fieldstrip screw I only keep it finger tight, if that's any useful information.

  2. #2
    I had this problem in my RPG modified ULE body - where it would scrape the topside of the body and get bolt stick/ wouldn't fire. I could fix it every time by loosening the field strip screw a little, but I never kept it very tight to begin with.

    I was wondering if perhaps the rail had lost too much material in polish/ano that when fully tightened the valve was no longer pointing straight down the body. If so could that be fixed with a very very thin shim between the rail and valve? Even something like a layer or two of tape?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    121
    Idk if my info is relevant, but my classic valve likes the field strip only snug, like the rubber urethane washer makes contact and then like an eighth of a turn more.

    My x valve likes the field strip screw about as tight as I can possibly get it with my fingers.

    The valve and body don't seem to align well unless I really tighten it down on the x valve.

    I have read on this forum that some people have to tighten their x valve with a wrench, but that scared me and I wouldn't do it. Not with as many helicoiled valves floating around.

    Jim
    yes, i could have purchased something new for the same money.

  4. #4
    Most of the classic bodies I've seen have this, and it's one of the few things about mags that really bugs me.

    Cannot abide metal-on-metal wear in the sense of chewing.

    As some have indicated, I think it is a matter of parts alignment. There are numerous factors at play here.

    As for tightening the field strip screw, you might try either cranking it down with super-finger pressure, or else the small end of a wrench, and seeing if that doesn't do it.

    There is a substantial amount of slop in the body/valve fit, and the tighter the screw, the further from the top.

    I have wrapped thick packing tape (carefully and evenly) around the smaller OD of the valve to improve concentricity in the body (using a razor blade to trim around the needed areas).

    Never had an issue after that, but it's hard to say if your mileage will be the same.

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